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remote start, 07 tacoma


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clemsonscj 
Member - Posts: 30
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Joined: January 25, 2013
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 2:49 PM / IP Logged  
Apparently it's in manual mode and there's some error there. But I also noticed that the status LED doesn't do anything...and I still can't figure why my bitwriter won't communicate with the module. Power and ground are working fine and like I said, it locks and unlocks just fine.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 3:26 PM / IP Logged  
Viper 5904, eh?  What Version Prom Chip in the BitWriter?  Think you need at least V2.7.
Soldering is fun!
clemsonscj 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2013
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 3:31 PM / IP Logged  
It is 2.7
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged  
Should be good to go.
Soldering is fun!
clemsonscj 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2013
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 5:20 PM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:
Should be good to go.
Haven't figured out the bitwriter yet. As cheap as that are, I just went ahead and ordered the upgraded chip to see if that's the issue. But in the mean time, I got it out of manual mode and figured out how to change menu options with the antenna button so everything is working 100% right now. We'll see what happens with the bitwriter down the road. To be honest, I have that module so crammed up behind the dash, I really don't know if I wanna fish it out just for the sake of seeing if it works...
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 6:08 PM / IP Logged  
Never needed a Bitwriter, once you get used to the manual programming it's far quicker to use that.
Why on earth would you use a Bitwriter or Eprom programmer to the uninitiated for one install.
Can't see anything you'd need it for.
clemsonscj 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2013
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 6:25 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Never needed a Bitwriter, once you get used to the manual programming it's far quicker to use that.
Why on earth would you use a Bitwriter or Eprom programmer to the uninitiated for one install.
Can't see anything you'd need it for.
Well I had originally gotten it when I had a diesel. You can program certain custom options rather than rounded defaults. But anywho, I'm having one last slight issue. It takes 2, sometimes 3 tries for it to start. I've upped the crank time to 1.2 seconds and still the same problem. It seems like it's not cranking the full amount of time before it stops. I've got a feeling it's because I did the virtual tach rather than hard wiring the tachometer. You think this is throwing some things off?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: January 26, 2013 at 6:42 PM / IP Logged  
This is where I get kicked out again Kregg but really clemsonscj, in an earlier post I stressed mistakes were made because people didn't read the instructions if you had you would have known to programme for auto and tach, open door, ign on, off hold button for three chirps press once hold, press remote, 2 chirps = auto.
Repeat, press twice, hold, push remote 3 times, 4 chirps. Tach.
I've only ever installed 2 units but I just did that from memory.
Hell I even gave you the tach wire colour and location, it's not even under the hood it's under the driver dash where you'd have done all your work!
Along with using T-Taps not wanting to use diodes, pure laziness.
Got to be one of the all time easy vehicles to do.
And 5 pages so far. I'm pretty certain that though he's more diplomatic than me Kregg agrees with what I'm saying.
clemsonscj 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2013
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 10:12 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
This is where I get kicked out again Kregg but really clemsonscj, in an earlier post I stressed mistakes were made because people didn't read the instructions if you had you would have known to programme for auto and tach, open door, ign on, off hold button for three chirps press once hold, press remote, 2 chirps = auto.
Repeat, press twice, hold, push remote 3 times, 4 chirps. Tach.
I've only ever installed 2 units but I just did that from memory.
Hell I even gave you the tach wire colour and location, it's not even under the hood it's under the driver dash where you'd have done all your work!
Along with using T-Taps not wanting to use diodes, pure laziness.
Got to be one of the all time easy vehicles to do.
And 5 pages so far. I'm pretty certain that though he's more diplomatic than me Kregg agrees with what I'm saying.
Yes, you have me color and location of the tach wire. But if I could post pictures, I'd show you two WHITE/ black wires at the OBDII side-by-side. And at the time I did not have the time nor the resources to figure out which one it is. It gives the pin # but depending on which source you're reading from, they either count each slot regardless of whether it's got a wire or not, or they only count slots with wires. Then you gotta know in which direction and order they're counting in. I plan to go back and redo it I just ran out of time today. Sorry to have wasted your time.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 26, 2013 at 10:55 PM / IP Logged  

You can use a Digital Multi Meter to locate / verify your Tach wire.  Set the DMM to 20V AC, connect the Red test lead to the suspect wire and the Black test lead to chassis ground.  With the engine running, you should see around 1 to 2 Volts and that will rise with RPM's.  Hooking the Vipers Tach wire to the wrong wire won't hurt the car, you just won't get a successful Tach learn.  Running in Tach Mode is definitely the way to go, especially in cold climates

Soldering is fun!
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