pljx problem, viper 4103xv in 1999 buick

I have never used a PLJX for a VATS system.  Here is how I think the wiring goes :

PLJXBrown to R/S (-) 200mA Status Output ( aka GWR )Green to Regal Keysense   Light Green (-)      @ ignition harness Blue to Regal VATS resistance code wirePink to R/S thick Ignition Output which also goes to the Regal Pink Ignition wireRed to +12V constantBlack to Regal VATS ground reference wire

Those VATS wires are very difficult to remove their insulation.   One of the VATS White wires will show between

+1 and +6 volts DC with the ignition key inserted and turned to the ON position.  The other White wire willshow (-) negative or ground.

As far as testing for a (-) type wire ( like Keysense ) :  Set the DMM to 20V DC.  Connect the Red test lead to

+12V constant.  Connect the Black test lead to the suspect wire.  When the (-) signal is present, the DMM will read +12V.

Soldering is fun!

I have put in a ton of Pljx modules and on the Gm cars and trucks have never used the key sense wire. Two key things is the jumper location on the module and programming it with the ground when running wire not hooked up till done programming

THANK YOU!! You all are great. I've posted on at least four other forums about the issue and not only were ya'll the first to help me figure it out, but also the first to even respond. After testing the teeny-tiny white wires I hooked up the PLJX to them, programmed, hooked up the status wire, and finally am able to remote start consistently. What really threw the troubleshooting off is that it actually would remote start previous to this a few times after me dinking around with it; which is why I had never even considered that I had the resistance and resistance ground ref wires hooked up incorrectly. That, and that other grey sleeve of wires including the BLACK / YELLOW /GREEN wires that matched the PLJX install instructions. Also when I looked my car up on their site it had told me that it was PLII instead of VATS. Even had I found those tiny white wires before I'd not have given them a second thought. Also - stripping the VATS wires really is a giant pain. Usually to strip a section I use my wire strippers to cut the insulation in a couple spots then use my X-Acto knife to slice between those cuts and just pull the bit off. Those VATS wires are smaller than even the smallest hole in my stippers! So again - thank you!!

I have a couple additional questions about hooking up the trunk release, rear defrost [if possible], and perhaps some other things. Should I stick with this thread or start a new one?

The XPressKit PLJX instructions and diagram for Passlock2 / VATS are very confusing and

typical for Directed products.  Glad you were able to get it all sorted out.

It is best to continue this thread.  Same vehicle, same R/S install. 

The 12 Volt has a bunch of very knowledgeable, enthusiastic installers that are always willing

to help. 

A lot of choices with the Trunk Release.  Think I would go with the Ready Remote info, but

like always, test first.  With  the (-) Trunk Release, you should be able to directly connect the 4103 RED / White wire to the Regal's Brown wire, no relay needed.

Ready Remote

 Trunk/Hatch Release  Brown (-)    @ BCM, 24 pin plug, pin B12  BCM is to the left of the steering column.

Audiovox

 Trunk Release  BLACK/ WHITE  (+)  AT SWITCH

Omega

 Trunk Release  BLACK/ WHITE (+)  REAR BODY HARNESS IN PASS. KICK PANEL

Bulldog Security

 TRUNK RELEASE   BROWN (-) (Requires #775 Relay)    @ RELAY BEHIND GLOVE BOX

Only info on the Rear Defrost is from Omega.    Rear Defrost  N/A  TIMER BUILT INTO SWITCH 

So if you want to control the Rear Defrost, find the thick +12V supply wire to the rear defrost grid and follow it back to the front of the car.  You can either use an extra  relay in the "5 wire mode" or try to find the cars' defrost relay and control that.

Soldering is fun!

N.B. This has already come up today, the Bulldog #775 is a standard Bosch/Tycho cube relay. Available in any automotive parts store and R/Shack.