gmt900 missing oem factory disarm wire

Howie, that is learned sense. The boss was having that problem and then he figured out it was only when I rode with him. It is habit for me to lock whatever I get out of. It took us weeks to finally figure out that I was the cause of the problem.

i am an idiot wrote: Is somebody locking the doors with the switch on the door when they get out of the vehicle? As long as you lock it with the viper remote and unlock it with the viper, you should not have this problem. If somebody that rides with you locks it from the doorswitch, you will experience exactly what you have going on.

I am aware of that possible problem, however, it does not happen even if I lock with the door switch. More or less, it is random. I have locked using both the door switch + fob without it setting off. I know exactly when the factory alarm goes off, since there is a lag when I press either lock/unlock and it will not send the signal, but cancel it without alart and set off the horn instead.

Learned becomes experience and knowledge. How do we become experienced otherwise? The reason our OP is having problems is because of ease he has wired this as D2D. Other peoples' experience says D2D is unreliable. Personally I would also check the voltages between the unit's ground point and 12V+ supplies. At my estimate 75% of alarm-R/S problems are poor grounds and poor connections, e.g. T-tap connectors instead of soldered joints.

howie ll wrote: Learned becomes experience and knowledge. How do we become experienced otherwise? The reason our OP is having problems is because of ease he has wired this as D2D. Other peoples' experience says D2D is unreliable. Personally I would also check the voltages between the unit's ground point and 12V+ supplies. At my estimate 75% of alarm-R/S problems are poor grounds and poor connections, e.g. T-tap connectors instead of soldered joints.

Everything is soldered and grounded to bare metal. I despise anything but solder for any connection. I am going to try to w2w route, everytime there is an easy route for me there is always problems. I am going to Rewire it when I get the chance. For the time being anymore input on this can be of use. Thanks everyone.

Don't feel too bad about it, we are only being clever because we've made the same mistakes and are trying to pass on our learnt benefits. If you haven't already, I'd still test the voltage between your ground point and the 12V+ inputs just to eliminate the "poor ground" syndrome