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sub box math, am i doing it right?


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soundnsecurity 
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Posted: February 27, 2013 at 8:52 AM / IP Logged  
check out one of my threads that was discussed a while ago. you should find some good information about bracing boxes and over all design of a ported box. LINK
DYohn 
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Posted: February 27, 2013 at 9:34 AM / IP Logged  
I forgot about that thread. That was a good discussion and something the OP should read through.
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ncc74656 
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Posted: February 27, 2013 at 9:38 PM / IP Logged  
im designing a new box tonight and ill post it once im finished. i cant get over what a difference putting a higher powered amp on my mids/highs has made for my sub. the new amp is only 11 times more powerfull than the old one.
haemphyst 
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Posted: February 28, 2013 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged  
ncc74656 wrote:
i cant get over what a difference putting a higher powered amp on my mids/highs has made for my sub. the new amp is only 11 times more powerfull than the old one.
"Only"... LOL sub box math, am i doing it right? - Page 4 -- posted image.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
ncc74656 
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Posted: February 28, 2013 at 11:45 PM / IP Logged  
lol, i went from a 100W MTX 30A fuse X2 channel to a 1150W eclipse 4 40A fuses. my god its night and day! the tweets that i thought were maxing were actually clipping...
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: March 01, 2013 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  
if the mtx has a 30A fuse then its at least a 200 watt amp at its max power. not quite 11X bigger but still a substantial boost. the eclipse is probably 300 watts per channel if the fuse ratings are correct. i dont know if you bought this amp new or used but sometimes when people want to sell a used amp they replace the normal fuses with bigger ones to make you think the amp is bigger than it really is.
ncc74656 
Copper - Posts: 71
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Posted: March 01, 2013 at 9:14 PM / IP Logged  
both amps were used. the fuses match the factory docs so i think they are correct.
ncc74656 
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Posted: March 01, 2013 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged  
ok, here it is... the latest attempt. i will also be 45ing EVERY corner, i just did not care to draw all that out. assume all edges are routered as well and the 3 way corners are fiber glassed.
what do i need to change? if anything.
pics
https://imgur.com/a/d3ZrJ
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: March 02, 2013 at 9:00 AM / IP Logged  
honestly i think 45ing the corners would weaken the structure. its not like building a house with 2x4's, MDF is strange to work with because its not like other woods. when you shoot a screw through the 45'd corner the screw will want to pull through the first layer and its way easier if the corner is angled. for example it would be easier to grab the two pieces of wood and break them apart if the corners are angled than when you just leave them squared. the only time i see a box with angled corners is when the box is held together with only nails and glue. those boxes are usually not built to last.
plus its just extra work that isnt necessary at all.
ncc74656 
Copper - Posts: 71
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Posted: March 02, 2013 at 10:16 AM / IP Logged  
k, then perhaps ill just use fiber glass to round off the inside corners. how does the rest of the box look? is this good to build? on a bit of a side note, subs have a min/max of cubic footage to use, what advantages or disadvantages would i have to a 7.99 cubic foot vs a 5 cubic foot? or maybe even a 7 cubic foot? and if i intend to over power the sub would i want to air on the side of more cubic footage?
also i read that 12-16 multiplier is the standard for port hight, i used 16 and took it back a tad. would i have any better or worse sound having a 3.55" hight on the port vs a 3" height or 3.8" height? my understanding is bigger is better to prevent port noise
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