diode isolating circuits

Any relay fed from a low current aux output from the 1.1L should be dioded. You will get away with it 9 out of 10 times, the tenth being the time that costs you a new unit.

Well then sounds like I need to go buy some more diodes. Do them the same as the picture? One on the relay and one on the wire to the module? And as far as the door locks, this should fix the problem of the backwards locks from the door switch?

Yes, exactly.

Well I got to digging on my alarm, and my issue wasn't the diodes. With everything connected (properly) there is a measurement of 1.2v across the coil on both resistors. I removed all power from the resistors, and isolated the source to the lock wire. With the lock wire disconnected, 0.0 v across the coil, connected, 1.2v (this is with the control module removed from the circuit) With the relay disconnected from the vehicles lock wire, the lock wire has no voltage on it. I can only assume now that the relays are bad? My next step is to rewrite the relays because I don't like them. Since the module puts out a -lock +unlock on one wire and a +lock -unlock on the other wire, can't I just wore the relay coil to ground and use the +signal from the module to trigger the relay? That way there isn't constant 12v power to them. I'm assuming it doesn't matter how you trigger the relay, as long as it is triggered it will connect 87 (ground) to 30 (ground through resistor to door lock wire). Thanks for all of the knowledgable input!!