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where to hide alarm cpu?


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Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 17, 2002 at 6:33 AM / IP Logged  

Solder the wires back together for a headache free patch job. As for the two brown connectors, disconnect one and try to start the car. If the car still starts with one pulled out, then unplug the other one and plug the one that you took out . If the car still starts, unplug the two brown connectors and test the starter. Before you cut anything else, test with a DMM or a light tester the BLACK/ WHITE wire for this:

  • target wire should have 12 volts ONLY in the CRANK position and no power in the ON or ACCESSORY positions.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
civic545 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2002 at 7:51 PM / IP Logged  

For rpm monitoring, i read on the diagram that you connect the wire to the tach wire, and also to the (-) ignition coil, which wire is the ignition coil ?  Heres a link to the diagram, its on page 3 http://www.clifford.com/guides/igs/intelliguard8000_install.pdf .  Whats a tip on how to connect one wire to two?  And just wondering, have you ever connected all the wires to an alarm and upon testing it out for the first time, you find out it doesn work?  Thats what im scared of b/c there are so many wires and it would be a pain if that happens.

in addition, for the prox sensor, it says it has to be mounted on to a metal surface, does that metal surface have to connect to the car frame?  Or, can i just take a small metal sheet and mount it anywhere.

civic545 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2002 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged  
nm, i beleive i figured that its just one tach wire that i have to connect to.  How do i know which one is the negative?  Also to save myself from headache, are the blue wires connected to the same brown harness as the constant 12 volt?  I dont wanna run the wire all the way up to the tach harness.  I know i should test this with a voltmeter and not ask you, but i'd rather not cut open a bunch of wires just for testing.
civic545 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2002 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
where to hide alarm cpu? - Page 3 -- posted image. ok i think i corrected myself again.  I see that the tach wire is near the distrubuter right?  Which one is it, i see like 2 blue wires.  Also, is the only way i can connect to that wire is in the engine?  How do i run my siren wire and the tach wire through the car.  Do i have to drill another hole, or is ther a ready hole?
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 18, 2002 at 5:14 PM / IP Logged  

You want to attach the BLACK/ GRAY wire to the tach wire on the car.The ignition coil is where you find the TACH wire on some vehicles. Look on my post where I have listed all the wires and their locations and the tach's location is descibed there. Don't worry about the alarm not working on the first try, that's where trial and error comes into play and it will take some time but you will learn alot in the process.

Mounting the prox sensor on a metal surface is mentioned only because they want the surface to be secure and not a peice of flimxy plastic. The tach wire is a BLUE wire NOT in the brown harness under the dash. You can't miss the 2 wire plug by the firewall on the driver side.

There should be blank  firewall plugs near the battery ( you will have to take the battery out ) or look for other blank black discs on the firwall. Take them out and drill a small hole into them and pass your wires through these discs. 

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
civic545 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 18, 2002 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  

last questions and im probably done.  Is it better if i connected all of the power to the constant 12 volt wire inside the car or directly to the battery?  If i do it to the battery, wont it be easy for thieves just to snip the alarm wire?  I think it would be kinda hard to open up the (+) battery wire loom and run in my alarm wire.  I would rather connect it to the inside constant 12 volt wire. 

For the drilling part, do i just drill the plug or will i have to drill through the metal wall too?

Also, installing my alarm i think i've noticed how easy it is to bypass my starter kill.  Wouldn't all they have to do is cut the alarm wires and reconnect the ignition wires?  I'm trying to disguise and hide my alarm wires as good as possible but i still think its too easy since my alarm wires run into the ignition wires in a T shape.  I've avoided connecting the wires close to the harness and ignition switch, is that a good idea?

And last, wut kinda battery should i get for backup on my alarm and siren?

oh yea, i think ive asked this question before but where exactly should i mount my siren?  Please give me a good location. Thanks

Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 19, 2002 at 6:22 AM / IP Logged  

If a thief is to snip the battery cable, it doesn't really matter if you have the alarm hooked up to the inside of the car or the battery cause the power will be lost either way unless you have a back up battery. Just make sure that you use split tube looming to hide all visible colored wires to get that factory look.

You will only need to drill into the plug. The plug will be a rubber disc or plastic and if there are no spare plugs then you will have to drill a hole or go through the steering wheel boot. The wires for the ignition are usually behind and up in the dash area. A thief will not bother trying to find these wires rather they would try to disable the siren or cut the main battery instead ( I would ). It's still a good idea to blend the alarm wires into the factory wires incase someone had the time to look under the dash and see what wires are for the alarm and which are not.

The back up battery should be a dry cell and should not be very large because you want to be able to hide it in a small space , yet still be able to access it. Try to mount the siren in a spot where it will be hard for a thief to get a hold of it and be able to pull it out. Have the siren mounted with the opening facing down so it won't act as a bird bath if you end up driving through rain.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
civic545 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 19, 2002 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged  

The reason i was asking that is because he could snip just the alarm wire from the battery, and still have power to run the car.  If he cut the battery wire wouldnt he be stuck with a powerless car?  So is it recommended that i connect it directly to the battery? Oh yea, and wut is a recommended place to ground all my wires?

hot_shot_guy123 
Copper - Posts: 114
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: June 19, 2002 at 10:32 AM / IP Logged  
I have my alarm running off of a seperate batt.  I managed to fit my batt in the panel in my trunk so it is hidden very well.  When installing the brain of your alarm, if you have done it good then when you put your car's dash back together it will look factory, thus making it harder for the thieve to locate the brain.  You should get a piezo siren for the inside.  They are annoying and are small enough that you can hide them anywhere.  I would definently go with a back-up batt., cause later on if you get stereo stuff, if they do snip your batt and you don't have a back up batt then your alarm will be dead and then bye bye stereo.
"Light travels faster then sound, that's why some people seem bright until you hear them speak."
hot_shot_guy123
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: June 19, 2002 at 11:30 AM / IP Logged  
The theif will not be so particular as to only snip one wire , chances are all the wires goingt to the battery will be disconnected if your car is to ever get broken into. All the theif has to do is to immobilize the alarm long enough to not attract attention to themselves. What's to say that the same theif couldn't reconnect the wires going to the battery after he has successfully ripped out your siren and alarm after he has snipped the wires for the battery. Also, a theif wouldn't need power to a car if all he wants is your stereo or car parts. To ground the alarm system make sure it's  a clean area on the frame of the car or the metal that is directly attached to the dash under the driver side kick panel.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
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