2011-2012 Rav4 Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

This is a DIY Pictorial for a 2011 Toyota RAV4.  The 2012 model year should be the

same.  This vehicle was a 4 Cylinder vehicle with the standard "G" transponder chipignition key (no PTS) and no Factory Alarm.  The install was for a basic one-way remote start with keyless entry.

There are several ways to implement a R/S on this vehicle.  All revolve around the

bypass module.  While it is possible to do a "key in the box" style install, using avalet key is an expensive option and does increase theft risk.  The next method isa standard bypass module.  There are several available but most require accessingthe IMO / IMI wires.    These wire can be found in at least two places - inside the vehicle,behind the fuse box and way up high or in the engine compartment at the ECM, next to the battery ( pictures at end of post ).  The easiest and most elegant method is to usean iDatalink bypass module ( ADS AL CA flashed with the ADS AL (DL) - TL5 firmware ).

List of parts :

Ultra Start U127212V Mini RelayIn-line ATC fuse holder with 10 Amp fuse1N4007 Diode ( relay coil quench )FLCAN bypass module ( same as ADS AL CA ) flashed with ADS AL(DL) TL5 firmwareDirected 8613 Tilt Switchvarious wire, solder, heat shrink tubing, tie wraps, Scotch Super 33+ tape, etc.

Here is a picture of the R/S and bypass module bench prepped and ready for install :

The W2W method was used between the R/S and bypass module.  This U1272 unit is

only 1 way D2D compatible with the FLCAN and W2W always works better than the D2Dmethod.  Only the necessary wires were run.  The U1272 does not perform any alarmfunctions, so Door and Trunk Status are not needed.  This vehicle has two ignition, twostarter and one accessory wires, necessitating the extra external relay.  Used for theIgn2 or Starter2 circuit, a 10 Amp relay is sufficient.  Additionally three of these ignitionwires are very thin gauge so the 30 Amp wires from the the R/S were reduced to 18 gauge to make for an easier, neater install.

Disassembly:

Using this R/S bypass setup, only 13 wire connections to the vehicle are required.  This

includes the optional Horn wire.  If the vehicle has a Factory Hood Pin, the Tilt switch isnot needed as the bypass module can supply that signal to the R/S.  The only items tobe removed are the lower dash panel, fuse box cover panel and the lower steering columncover. 

Remove the two Phillips screws indicated in the photo below and pull the lower dash panel

straight away at the top edge ( two clips, one each side).

The fuse panel cover can be remove by using a non-marring trim tool and prying at the top

and right side. 

The steering column clam shell cover separates by slight pressure along the seam starting

at the rear, then use a thin blade screw driver inserted at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions on the covers face behind the steering wheel.  ( Other Toyota's used screws at these locations. )This will expose the ignition wires.

Wiring :

Power for the R/S system should be drawn from the thick White 140 Amp wire shown below.

However, with a R/S w/Keyless ( no alarm ) system and using the (-) Parking Lights, the Bluewire shown just to the left is adequate and easier to make a solder connection.  ( Good tip from shortcircuit161, thanks Frank! )

Here is a picture of the main Ignition connector with the wires marked :

Here is a photo of the Headlight connector.  If the vehicle had Auto Headlight, there would be

a Green wire to the left of the White Parking Light wire.  To disable Auto Headlights during aremote start, open this Green wire with the R/S's Ground When Running ( Status Output ) wireand a relay.

Here is a photo of the optional Horn wire :

This is a shot of the OBD2 connector with the wires marked.  The bypass module supplies a

Tach signal, so the OBD2 Tach wire at Pin 9 was not used for this install.

On vehicles requiring a hood pin ( no Factory Alarm ), firewall pass thru can be found at the main

harness that includes the hood release cable.  This harness comes out behind the power brakebooster ( no photo ).  Use a long flexible tie wrap in the hood cable hole to pass the wire(s) thru.

Notes :

There are many good locations for the Chassis Ground connection under the dash and plentyof room to securely mount the R/S assy.  The rear hatch locks and unlocks with the doors.  The iDatalink bypass module does a lot.  It handles the engine immobilizer thru data and does not require a Security Light wire.  It allows the Factory FOB's to work during a remote start so a one button R/S system is an option.  The after-market R/S FOB's act the same as the Factory FOB's, giving priority unlock and factory audio tones with lock and unlock commands.  

Bonus photos for anyone not using an iDatalink bypass module... 

Brake wire at the pedal switch connector.

IMI / IMO wires at the ECM in the engine compartment.  ( Be sure to solder and insulate /

weather-proof these connections.)

Door lock wires in the bottom connector in the drivers kick panel.  These are the key

cylinder wires and do both Lock / Arm and Unlock / Disarm ( double pulse ).

Here is a photo of the Keysense wire :

Soldering is fun!

Don't you mean a 507M tilt sensor, 8613 is the made-up version of the PCB relays we make ourselves, as you did in the photo.

Sorry for the confusion on the Directed 8613 tilt switch. I use these as a upgrade / replacement for the cheap mechanical hood pin supplied in the R/S kits. They are simple hood / trunk tilt switches that use a ball bearing or mercury and cost about $7 but last forever. I prefer not to drill holes in the customers car if possible or fabricate a mounting bracket. Here is a photo of one installed using a hood hinge bracket bolt on a Dodge Caravan. The mini-relay pictured and used as IGN2 is one of those SPDT relays that has a 12V DC coil ( 36 mA ) and is capable of a 10 Amp load across the contacts at 28V. They do not come pre-wired, or coil quenched and only cost $0.55 each in lots of 50.Soldering is fun!

That's a wonderful price, I can't seem to get below about $4 equivalent for 50+.

I followed the same step with my PKE Alarm with Remote Start installation. The problem is when I remote start the car responds but doesnt crank to start. Do you have any idea about the problem.Rav4 2012

I used key in a box method for my remote start. The bypass key in a box is responding during remote start but the engine doesnt crank at all. I need assistance to make it work. Is there any additional wires that I need to know.Rav4 2012

This Pictorial was specific in regards to the remote start and bypass module used, but did include additional wire locations and pictures that should help with most general installations. I am not familiar with your "PKE Alarm and Remote Start" system. Do you have an Installation Manual you can post for this product (that's in English)?Soldering is fun!

I will post some pictures of the installation guide.Rav4 2012

Do I have to connect something on the keysense?Rav4 2012

The IMO/IMI wires are not the same on the 2012 I just did. I contacted DEI tech support and was told the wires are at the ECM, A9 connector.

2.5l IMI is pink, pin 11 

IMO is lt green, pin 10

3.5l IMI is pink, pin 40

IMO is lt green, pin 29