honda civic 2012, viper 424, adsalca

Thanks Kreg, I made all the connections. However, the remote starter's control LED does not light up. The immobilizer bypass, which is connected only by the datalink, does have an indicator LED which blinks green. I was able to perform the module programming for the immobilizer bypass. On the other hand, the remote starter is dead. I have tried turning the key to ignition, acc, and on. After pressing the control button or holding the control button, I see no LED light still.

Nevermind, Please ignore post above.

I was unable to make the remote start completely functional. I have the immobilizer and remote starter connected via D2D. When I remote started it, it fires right up and lasts for about 10-30 seconds. Then the engine shuts down without any user intervention. The remote starter then tries to crank the car again but fails 2 times. The green key sign in the car is blinking while this happens. Shutdown diagnostic codes indicate that there is a remote shutdown but I haven't pressed any buttons on the remote. I have also uploaded the latest firmware on the immobilizer and run through initialization again, without any change. However, I changed the engine detection settings of the remote starter. I have tried virtual tach, voltage, and OFF. This problem resolves when I change the setting to OFF. What are the dangers of turning off engine detect for a remote starter?

No dangers at all. Engine Checking = OFF gives you a fixed crank time set by Menu 3, Item 3. It might over-crank when the engine is warm and under crank during the winter. The big question is why you are not running in Tach Mode. If you have joined the Viper and the iDatalink bypass in the W2W mode, just connect the Vipers' Tach Input wire to the bypasses Tach Output wire. You will have to program the Viper for Engine Checking = Tach and do a Tach Learn, too. The iDatalink bypass module outputs a nice Tach signal and ensures a reliable start-up every time.Soldering is fun!

I connected via D2D not W2W because I did not want to run a wire from the engine through the firewall. Any explanation why the remote starter would automatically kill the engine after it successfully started it for 30 seconds?

From your info, it seems to do with Viper Engine checking ( it does try to restart twice ). Of course, the Green blinking Key is a concern. You could try checking the Viper Shutdown Diagnostics. If you connected D2D ( I'm confused ) that signal should come thru the D2D harness ( Red dashed line ). Try it by programming to Tach Mode and doing a Tach Learn. If the Viper gives a successful Tach Learn, try a few remote starts.Soldering is fun!

Its looking for tach and doesnt see the engine is running. It shuts it down and trys to restart cause the brain didnt see it was running. Either do what they said or use virtual tach. I always use that for DEI stuff and never have an issue. It might start and die once or twice the first time but after that its bulletproof.

Well, you are correct again kreg. I tried Tach Mode with tach learn on D2D and it started up fine. I thought that I needed to be in virtual tach mode when using D2D and tach mode when using W2W. Apparently, you can use D2D on tach mode like you said. Also, some of the wiring is wrong so I have updated the wiring below for others who need help: Immobilizer side ~~ Car side Pink Ignition input ~~ White 7 pin 2 Yellow @ Ignition cylinder BROWN / Red CanH ~~ White 7 pin 4 Pink @ Ignition cylinder BROWN / Yellow CanL ~~ White 7 pin 3 Blue @ Ignition cylinder ORANGE / Black Key Data ~~ White 7 pin 6 LtGreen @ Ignition cylinder Blue/Yel shorted to WHITE/ Black on immobilizer WHITE/ red unlock ~~ unlock (-) on driver door White lock ~~ lock (-) on driver door Blue/red ground ~~ GND Purple / YELLOW ground ~~ GND REMOTE STARTER http://www.12voltdistributors.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Viper_4204V_Installation_Guide.pdf starter side ~~ car side H1/1 red ~~ connected to white wire, pin 1, @ 5-Pin plug ignition switch H3/2 RED / white ~~ same as above H3/5 red ~~ same as above H3/8 RED / black ~~ same as above H1/2 black ~~ connected to chassis ground H3/1 pink ignition input ~~ blue wire, pin 2, @ 5-Pin plug H3/3 orange accessory output ~~ orange wire, pin 4, @ 5-Pin plug ignition switch (to heater blower 1) H3/4 violet starter output ~~ yellow wire, pin 5, @ 5-Pin plug ignition H3/6 pink/white relay output ~~ red wire, pin 3, @ 5-Pin plug ignition switch (to heater blower 2) Aux/2 Neutral safety ~~ gnd Connect d2d link Program Bypass Set Viper to Flex Relay = ACC2 ( Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 2 ) Set Engine Check Mode = Tach ( Menu 3, Item 2, Opt 4) Set Transmission = Auto ( Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 2) Set Viper to Learn Tach signal The only problem I have now is the door locks. The viper remote door lock and unlock does not work. I have confirmed by multimeter that I am tapped into the correct wires found in the driver's kick area. When I hit the door lock button on my honda remote, I get a 12V pulse down the blue wire. Respectively, I also get a 12V pulse in the gray wire when I press the door unlock button on the honda remote. I attached the bypass's wire to this blue wire but I don't think the bypass sends a signal to the blue wire. I can hear the relays on the viper. The bypass LED is solid green with the keys out of the ignition cylinder.

Good to hear that the install is mostly working. Very interesting issue with the locks.   Have you tried testing the Civics' Blue and Gray lock wires by giving them a brief chassis ground via a short, fused, jumper wire? This would verify / ensure correct wires and operation. Here is how it is supposed to work with the iDatalink bypass module. This info is from the iDatalink WEB site.

No Keyless Entry When Remote Started

The following details on DL-HA doorlocks operations will certainly help to pinpoint what part of the install may

create the problem.

When the vehicle Ignition is turned OFF:

The module will send the doorlocks codes through Data (using doorlock Data) at this point, we are sending the

OEM keyless codes on the network.

Using this method with Ignition OFF gives you the ability to control the driver priority unlock, unlock all, lock,

trunk and OEM alarm.

When the Ignition is ON:

The vehicle refuses the keyless Data (this is the way the vehicle is built). At this point (when we receive ignition

on the Pink wire) we change our doorlocks control to hardwire mode (the module doesn't send keyless data

anymore but is indeed sending (-) pulses through the White and WHITE/ Red wires of the module).

This way you still can control the doorlocks when the engine is remote started (no driver priority Unlock with

ignition ON since the doorlock wires we are tied to are the wires from the door lock switch inside the driver door

which doesn't operate priority unlock). We will also loose the keyless trunk release during the remote start cycle

since the trunk release command is sent though the keyless data codes which are refused by the vehicle when

the ignition is energized.

When you remote start, there's another factor which is important;

As soon the module will receive GWR, it will stop all doorlock activities and go in what we can call an "Immobilizer

Ready" mode (the module waits for the Immobilizer code). When the engine is started (once we received (+) start

signal on the BLACK/ White wire) we return to doorlocks operations at this point we determine if:

- There's 12 Volt on the module ignition input we will use the hardwire signals.

- There isn't any 12 Volt on the module ignition input we will use the keyless data codes.

Ensure the module is receiving the starter input as if it's not received the module will remain in "Immobilizer

Ready" mode and will not operate doorlocks until it receives the (+) Start signal on its input.

What that means : The bypass module receives the door lock commands from the Viper via the DBI D2D harness. The bypass module uses the vehicles ignition wire ( and the Vipers Starter Output signal ) to decide on whether to send the lock commands to the vehicle on the Key Data wire or by means of the White or WHITE/ Red wires ( because the Civic ignores the Key Data commands while it's running ). In D2D communications, troubleshooting is very limited. ( That is one of the reasons I still prefer W2W. ) You can hear the Vipers relays click ( probably the Parking Light relay ) with the locks commands but you can't directly monitor the D2D output. ( You should be able to use a DMM to verify that the Viper is also sending a lock output on it's Blue and Green wires.) You can't monitor the bypass modules Key Data wire to watch for the locks command either. You should be able to use a DMM to verify that the bypass module is outputting a locks signal while the engine is running on the White and WHITE/ Red wires. If it were me, I would be wired up in W2W mode and I would simply delete the Vipers lock wire connections ( Green & Blue to ADS AL CA GREEN/ Black & Blue/Black ) and directly connect them to the Civics' Blue and Gray wires. This would allow the Viper to directly control the door locks all the time ( even with engine running ). You would lose the Vipers' priority unlock feature ( while engine is off ) and gain a faster command response time. There is something you could try if you don't want to switch over to W2W. 1.) Use the ADS USB cable to feature program the bypass module to NOT handle the door locks. Then hard wire       the Viper lock wires to the Civic. This would allow the iDatalink to still handle the Trunk Release via D2D and       Key Data but the Viper would directly control the door locks. ( You could simply leave the programming alone       and make the direct Viper lock connections to the Civic but I don't think the Civic would like getting both the       direct and Key Data lock commands at the same time.)Soldering is fun!

the1voltuser wrote: Ok, I found the 23 pin connector. The gray wire is power unlock. However, there's conflicting information. According to http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/index.aspx?MakeID=3&ModelID=20426, the blue wire is power lock. According to http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7122&productid=461&firmwareid=2382, the pink wire is power lock (installation type 5). There is no documentation regarding pin number in idatalink's installation guide.

Can you describe where this is or provide a photo. I've been unable to find it. Thanks.Dangerously enthusiastic.