2013 camry excalbur al 1830 edbp with bla

I looked at the LED on the blade and it does not flash or click any longer. Also, I have the Camry SE edition that came with only the remote lock / unlock / trunk pop. It did not come with the alarm. So I bought the OEM factory hood pin switch and installed it and plugged it in to the harness that is sitting unused that is meant for the hood pin switch. That is why I tried installing the additional pin switch because I thought it may not be connected since it does not have an alarm. The factory "beeping" is maintained. I only installed exactly what I mentioned. I tested and got a 12+ on both the violet and relay wires going to the Starter 1 and 2. I am stumped. According to the blade manual, those are the only wires than need to be connected, the 2 ignitions, 2 - 12+, 2 starter, 1 Accessory,1 Parking lights,1 Doorlock sense, CanH CanL, and immobilizer and of coarse the ground. 13 wires total and flashed the proper firmware. I then followed the directions for the immobilizer to learn the key code. I then knew it was set to press button #4 x 2 for RS and the 2 way remote made the vibration and the screen flashed the starting figure and I heard the clicking of the relay(s) I assume and nothing happened. It didn't even try to start. That is why I opted to run the pin switch just in case the OEM I installed is not connected to anything at the other end, wherever it runs to. If it was connected, then that is not the problem. Just wanted to rule it out. There is a setting under the Pink/white wire. It can be set for Starter, Ignition, or Accessory. What is the proper setting? I have a feeling a setting is wrong because I checked everything and re-tested the next day all over again with a fresh mind. Either that or the brain is fried because During the remote start process, the light on the blade is supposed to come on . It does not. It does not light up. according to the manual, it says there is a faulty ground possible? I will ground it somewhere else I guess, but I don't think that is the problem. EVERYTHING is soldered so there is no possibility that there is a loose connection. Any way to test if the unit is bad?tr

Re the Pink/White think wire you have connected to the Camry's IGN2 or IGN B wire. It is a selectable output. I believe the default AL-1830 setting is IGN2 but you could go into programming and verify or set it to IGN2. Re Hood Pin : There might be no way to test and verify your added factory hood pin is integrated into the vehicle properly and being picked up by the Blade thru the CAN Bus. Grounding the Gray/Red wire and connecting the AL-1830 to the kit's hood pin will work. Did you try a Tach Learn? Does the car R/S with a factory ignition key held with the head section next to the ignition switch? Any AL-1830 diagnostic flash codes?Soldering is fun!

I did try the tach learn if you mean pressing the brake pedal 5 x and that whole procedure. I do not get any codes from the light on the Blade. If I did, I would know where to look. The only thing I can see is that during the remote start, if there is no light, it is supposed to show a grounding issue. But that man not be the case. hood pin switch is connected like I mentioned. The pink / white is set to ignition. You only have 3 choices. Ignition, starter, and accessory. Is it possible that I have to swap the 2 ignition wires? Or the 2 starter wires for that matter? Meaning Starter 1 may be switched with starter 2 or Ignition 1 is switched with Ignition 2? Would it really matter even if they were swapped? I am at the point of buying another unit and using the blade. I was looking at the Crime Guard 830i7. It takes the blade cartridge. It is practically identical in every way including the wiring, etc. I don't know how else to check if the brain is bad. I have had the Excalibur unit for at least a year and would be too late to return. If you have any ideas of how to test it or bench test it to check if it works, I would be very appreciative of any ideas or quick ways to check it. Thanks.tr

Sorry, Excalibur is not one of my normal brands. Hopefully another forum member with Excalibur experience can assist.Soldering is fun!

Well, before you go and spend some more money, let's see if we can get the AL-1830 + Blade w/TL5 firmware working.   You seem so close. I would definitely play around with it to see what's going on.   My short-coming is lack of experience with the Excalibur system. Note : The steps are in a specific sequence. If the steps don't go exactly right, stop and troubleshoot the issue. We are assuming that all the R/S output wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires. As you said, it's only 14 wires. Power, chassis ground, the 5 ignition wires, the three wires from the Blade harness to the OBD2 connector and one to the Door Data wire, the parking light, horn, and hood pin. First, let's hook up the horn. It can supply some good info. You already have the Excalibur's horn relay input going to chassis ground, so it's just a matter of running the Violet/Black wire to the Camry's Light Blue horn wire. Not sure on the AL-1830, but generally a Lock or Unlock command will beep the horn ( even if the Blade isn't doing its' job ). At this point, I would set all the necessary programming options on the Excalibur. Try as I might, I am not positive if the first column ( Lock ) is the factory default setting. Assuming this, there are several options that need to set, changed or verified. Here is a list : User : #15 to Pulse Horn Lo #22 to 15 minutes Installer: #5 to Man Trans = OFF #6 to Tach Wire ( could be DataTach if that means from Blade cartridge ) #8 to IGN2 #13 shouldn't matter with a Blade cartridge if this is for the 4 pin Data Port on the side of the AL-1830. Next, let's do a Factory Reset on the Blade. Think I would pull the power fuses on the R/S system. Then un-plug the 20 Pin Blade Harness. Then slide out the Blade cartridge, re-install the fuses, press and hold the Blade button and slide it back in. Release the button when it starts flashing Red, then watch / verify the LED goes Red for 2 seconds then off.   Plug in the 20 Pin Blade harness and perform Module to vehicle programming with the ignition key. Watch / verify correct LED response.   ( Again, not familiar with the Excalibur, but hopefully pulling the fuses does not reset the unit or loose any programming.) If the Blade reset and programming went correctly, the Excalibur's remotes should lock and unlock the doors and pop the trunk. Try just these features to verify.   The Excalibur should also give the corresponding horn and parking light flashes with each command. Additionally ( with the engine off ) the Toyota factory FOBs should work like normal. Next test the Excalibur's alarm section. The Blade should be providing the door and trunk inputs and your hood pin should be providing that input signal.   Again not knowledgeable on the AL-1830 but set the system alarm to ON, then reach in and open a door with the inside handle, pop the hood and trunk to see if the AL-1830 sounds the Horn ( in lieu of the siren ). There might be some AL-1830 programming to do. Next is setting the AL-1830 for Tach Mode operation via a programming option, then do a Tach Learn procedure. Ensure you get the correct response from the Excalibur that it has successfully learned the Tach Signal. Another weak area for me, as I have never done this on an AL-1830. If the Tach Learn was good, connect a DMM ( or test light ) to the AL-1830 IGN1 output wire and try a remote start. The IGN1 wire should go to +12V and the instrument panel should come on. Hopefully the car starts.   If everything worked up to this point, try a remote start with a working key held to the ignition switch ( so the transponder antenna can pick-up the keys signal ). That sure tell us something. The important stuff is any step that didn't execute properly and any LED error signals received.Soldering is fun!

Sorry, been out of town. I tried everything. I DID NOT hook up the horn or the siren, but it still gets ground from the 18 pin switch. This ground operates the system because It does not work when you take the ground screw off and it is a good ground. The unit has always locked, unlocked, parking lights flash, when you arm and open the door, alarm goes off. Can't hear it because it isn't hooked up to an audible device, but you can hear the relay clicking and the lights on the antenna going off. So everything else works EXCEPT for the RS. I have the setting the way you show them and I also read that when flashing the module on the computer, it defaults to the correct data transfer setting (I don't recall the term because I am not at my home and don't have the install manual. I even tried changing it. I had the pink /white wire set to Ignition # 2 via Installer option # 8. No tach wire hooked up because you don't need it. I wasn't sure the correct setting for the tach option so I tried changing them all and tried each individual one. I reset the unit and removed the Blade from the alarm each time. It is funny because I can see that when I install or plug in the wire harnesses and blade, I turn the Ignition key to on and off. I see the blade light flash blue twice as indicated in the install manual so I am sure it is programmed to read the key correctly. I DID also try the tach learn where you press the brake pedal I think 5 times. I did it under every possible combination of settings. With the alarm working as it always has, it just won't remote start. I DO NOT hear the relay click for the starter # 2 wire so I replaced the relay with 2 new ones. None of them worked. They ARE definitely wired properly. Green 3 port Red connector pin to 85, 12+ to 86 and 87, and # 30 to starter # 2. I thought perhaps I switched starter 1 and 2 so I swapped them. Meaning I ran starter # 2 to Starter # 1 and vice versa. No luck. Tried the same with the ignitions. The OEM keyless entry remote does lock, but does not unlock. When you unlock, it beeps long. As if you locked the car with the door open before installing the alarm. The alarm also pops the trunk FYI. I even ran a hood switch. Here is the strange thing. If I test the Ignition at the alarm 6 pin thick wires. I tried with a test light. I get 12+ on both wires, I get Ignition 1 and Ignition 2, accessory, and starters. That is when testing with the key. Yet when I remote start, I don't get any power in my test light and the 6 pin plug in 2 - way. Both an input and an output. I only get the 12+ but none of the rest light up. Therefore, I decided that the unit may have a problem. I also did try RS with the key in the Ignition W/O turning it so it would read the chip just in case. No luck. I know the problem rests in the 6 pin harness since the 2 Ignitions, 2 starters and accessory all test + when turning the key, but none of then work on RS. I figured the relays inside are bad. If my diagnosis steps tell you where the problem is, please let me know what you think. I have just spent days working on it and I decided it is not worth it anymore. It's something I learned in College. Opportunity cost. The several days I have worked on it have taken away from other things. I wanted to do it for fun for old time sake since this used to be my profession many years ago, but it has taken away from too many other things so I decided to buy an Autopage C3-RS-730. Can still return it though if I can get the Excalibur to work. I noticed that the Autopage too does not have a starter 2. Don't know if you are farmiliar with them, but what is the best way to tap in to get a starter 2? can I use the starter 1 and tie in to a relay to the starter 2? Or just splice the 1 wire and run them both to the starter 1 and 2? Could I have done this with the Excalbur too?

Sorry, not trying to waste your time beating a dead horse. The postings on this forum go from novice to expert and people re-using diodes from old circuit boards to others paying full price for Viper 5904's w/battery backup + multiple sensors + SmartStart + windows roll-ups. The C3-RS-730 has a Gray/Black wire called Second Starter Output at Pin 2 of the 20 Pin connector that can be used for Pin 85 of your external Starter2 relay set-up. The rest of the Starter2 relay wiring remains the same. Soldering is fun!

Kreg is correct! He helped me with my wife's Sentra! I installed the 730 about a month ago! It's a really go alarm. I'd go with idatalink bypass for your vehicle.2001 Corolla S and 2005 Neon SRT 4 ACR.