90 civic , viper 3105 key less

Got the Diodes too

kreg357 wrote: Good deal! Check the Install guide. If the Door Lock and Unlock wires are strictly (-) outputs, no diodes are needed.

Okay i'm checking out the Wires and and mapping out all my connections before I take it to the car

Okay I need a little help on some connections Door Trigger Input: connect to a wire that goes to (+) 12V when any door is open Violet (+) Door Trigger Input Instant Trigger Input: Connect to a wire that goes to ground (-) when the hood or trunk is open blue (-) instant trigger input Door trigger input: Connect to a wire that goes to ground (-) when any door is open green (-) door trigger input According to my wiring diagram on this website for my civic my door trigger is: GREEN/ Red (-) so i'm guessing i'm only going to connect this to the green (-) door trigger from the alarm Rule out the positive (+) door trigger violet since my car is negative blue (-) instant trigger input since I have no hood pin connect this just to my trunk the diagram shows Trunk Pin     GREEN/ Black (-)Harness from Dash INDICATOR

Correct. The Viper is a generic after-market system and provides connection inputs ( and outputs ) to support a wide variety of vehicles. Your car has (-) Door Triggers and a (-) Trunk Trigger so you will use those inputs on the Viper. Here is another place you can use a diode... If you want the Viper alarm to monitor the hood too, install a hood pin switch ( sometimes included in the Viper kit ) and add that to the Viper's Blue (-) Instant Trigger Input wire along with the Civic's GREEN/ Black Trunk Pin. Place a diode ( 1N4001 or 1N4004 ) in the wire going to the Civic's GREEN/ Black Trunk Pin ( with the band away from the Viper ) to prevent the added Hood Pin from making the Civic think the trunk is open when only the hood is open.   If you need a ( free ) hood pin switch, let me know.   I have so many, I'm thinking of having a yard sale...     Remember to use a Digital Multi Meter to locate these trigger wires. ( Later model Accords had a nasty habit of destroying the BCM if you probed the wrong wire while looking for the Trunk Release wire in the DKP ). For a (-) trigger signal, set the DMM to 20V DC, Red test lead to +12V constant and Black test lead to the suspect wire. When testing for the Civic's Door Trigger wire, if a door is open the DMM will read +12V, door closed = 0V. This will be fun! Not only do you get to solder, you get to use a DMM and some diodes, too!!!     Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all your help if it wasn't for you and this sight I wouldn't be able to do this I tested out the door & trunk triggers last night those are cool. I was trying to open them as quietly & slowly as I could to see if they were working and they are =) I was thinking about getting the hood pin too. If you have one laying around I'll gladly take it thank you. What DMM do you recommend?

Im on an entry level harbor freight Amazon budget right now =/ I don't even own a test light I been thinking about picking both of those up i seen those nice expensive Fluke brand ones. By any chance do you know where I can connect my dome light supervision wire to? I think I read it has to be wired to relay. Is there a way I can get it to lock the door when I turn the ignition switch on or its not an option on this alarm?

I ended up buying a centech digital multi meter my friend let me borrow his Elenco so I can see how accurate my new cheap one is I picked up a centech tester as well.

Forgot to post picture

Just PM me your shipping address and I'll send a couple hood pin switches to you. As for a decent DMM, you should be able to find one in the $20 to $45 range. For basic auto electronics it doesn't have to have + or - .05% accuracy. If you can find one that measures Frequency, that would be a plus. It makes finding a Tach or VSS signal easier. Remember that the DMM will also be very useful around the house for AC testing, battery checking and even verifying a light bulb is blown. Fluke is a good brand but pricey ( I still use an old Fluke Model 77 ). There are other brands out there that will fit your budget and provide years of reliable service. Be careful with the +12 circuit tester. It will be fine for use on ignition wires.   On newer cars, the computers are very sensitive and be damaged by indiscriminate use of a high current incandescent test light. You should be able to connect the Vipers Dome Light Supervision wire directly to the Door Pin wire. The guides all list the GreenRed wire. Not sure why Bulldog Security suggests using a relay. Look at Programming Option 1-3. Seems like ignition controlled door locking is set to ON as the default.Soldering is fun!

I'll PM you my address thanks My friends DMM is nice it's an Elenco M-1750 I think I might go for that one its around $40 an Amazon. I have a feeling my cheap Centech one isn't gonna last too long. I'll be careful with the tester I really don't know why I bought it I figured out the auto door lock situation, I was testing it out with my drivers door open all others closed I guess they where all suppose to be closed in order for that feature to work. I'll connect the dome supervision to door trigger thanks again

kreg357 wrote: Just PM me your shipping address and I'll send a couple hood pin switches to you. As for a decent DMM, you should be able to find one in the $20 to $45 range. For basic auto electronics it doesn't have to have + or - .05% accuracy. If you can find one that measures Frequency, that would be a plus. It makes finding a Tach or VSS signal easier. Remember that the DMM will also be very useful around the house for AC testing, battery checking and even verifying a light bulb is blown. Fluke is a good brand but pricey ( I still use an old Fluke Model 77 ). There are other brands out there that will fit your budget and provide years of reliable service. Be careful with the +12 circuit tester. It will be fine for use on ignition wires.   On newer cars, the computers are very sensitive and be damaged by indiscriminate use of a high current incandescent test light. You should be able to connect the Vipers Dome Light Supervision wire directly to the Door Pin wire. The guides all list the GreenRed wire. Not sure why Bulldog Security suggests using a relay. Look at Programming Option 1-3. Seems like ignition controlled door locking is set to ON as the default.