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viper 4704 on 2012 nissan titan


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snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: September 24, 2013 at 7:04 AM / IP Logged  
I can send the xcel file to you if that would be better?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 24, 2013 at 9:06 AM / IP Logged  
I copied it to Word and it is readable.
First, I am not a DB-ALL user, so I don't know how "feature programmable" they are with the XKLoader2
cable attached ( like the Fortin or iDatalink modules where you can turn off certain items and functions).
The reason being, you are mixing the wiring and functions between the D2D harness supported functions
and going W2W on others.   ( I am assuming D2D because you did not manually connect the Vipers Dark
Blue (-) Status Output wire to the DB-ALL (-) GWR Status Input and the DB-ALL Pink Ignition wire is not
listed as connected to the Vipers' thick Pink IGN1 wire.)
Examples :
The DB-ALL supplies a Brake input via D2D but you are also manually running a wire from the Viper
to the Titan's physical Brake pedal wire.
The DB-ALL supplies a Tach signal via D2D and you are using that.
The DB-ALL does the door lock thru D2D and you are also directly connecting the Viper to the
key cylinder wires in the drivers door.
The Viper sends a Parking Light control signal to the DB-ALL via the D2D harness so the DB-ALL can
control the Parking Lights but you are also hardwiring a Parking Light connection from the Viper to the
Titan.
Anyway, it's confusing to me. I have never tried it that way. I am not sure how the DB-ALL and the Titan
will react to that set-up. For me, I would connect the two units in the W2W mode and use the DB-ALL
for all it's worth ( Tach, Brake, Parking Lights, Hood Status ( if Factory supported ), etc ). The only
point of concern is the Factory Alarm. Perhaps a call to XpressKit Tech Support can clear that area
up before install. Going W2W, you could just wire up the Vipers lock wires to the BCM or inside the
door and bypass the DB-ALL for that issue.
Additionally, try to find a sealed relay for the IPDM. While it is not directly exposed to water splashes,
it is more subject to the elements in the box under the hood.
Soldering is fun!
snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: September 24, 2013 at 12:47 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry if I'm confusing you. I do not intend to mix the 2 types of signals and am probably over thinking this to the point I'm crossing signals. Hence my questions. I'm trying to eliminate what would be D2D and what would be W2W and I believe I was mixing up the connections I need to make. With D2D all of the functions found in the W2W are there.
The DB-ALL seems similar to the units you are referring to where the functions are programmable. I can turn my OEM alarm on and off with the xpressloader2 and I can program which features I want to use. Glad to know I do not have to get inside my doors if I don't want to.
I will give them a call to make sure I'm covered. I'll eliminate the 3 connections you are referring to and I only have to make the connections for: neutral to ground, rear defogger, hood pin, (possible blue for horn since I'm using a 2-way that can arm/disarm alarm) and the Accessory output to the relay. I'll contact xpress to clear the rest up.
The relays I purchased are sealed automotive relays.
I do really appreciate your patience and responding to my questions. Many people would just tell me to take it to someone and have them do it.
snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: September 24, 2013 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  
I've been meaning to ask you what this relay does in the circuit?
Obtain 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for ACC2. Wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22 Orange (-)200mA Accessory Output
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to Green +12V constant @ Ignition switch harness through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Purple ACC2 @ Ignition switch harness
Relay Pin 87a    not used
I understand that when the 200mA signal is sent from the Viper the coil is energized and the relay switches state sending 12V to the ACC2 wire. What does that actually do?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 24, 2013 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged  
The external relay is used to supply power to the Titan's Accessory2 circuit. The Viper can only
handle 4 of the 5 ignition circuits ( IGN1, ACC1, Starter1 and Starter2 ) but the Viper conveniently
provides these (-) 200mA outputs to control relays for any additional vehicle needs. Each of these
circuits ( like Starter1 & Starter2, ACC1 & ACC2 ) is isolated and should be handled the same way
during a remote start. An installer should never connect the thick Yellow Starter Output wire to two
vehicle starter wires.
I do not know exactly which vehicle circuits are controlled by the ACC2 wire. It could be completely
un-necessary things like power mirrors, heated seats, wipers and the radio.   In some vehicles, not
powering an ignition circuit will cause CEL's and in some cases transmission damage.
If you can go into the DB-ALL programming and turn off the Door Lock control and E-Brake Status
Output, you could connect the Viper to the DB-ALL via D2D. The D2D harness would provide the Viper
with the Tach signal, the Brake signal and possibly the Hood Pin Status along with taking care of the
transponder bypass. At the Viper, you would connect it's lock outputs to the BCM ( as shown in the
iDatalink guide ) and the Neutral Safety to chassis ground. At this point most of your wiring chart is
good, just delete the H1/5 and H2/16 connections as they are handled by the DB-ALL via D2D.
Soldering is fun!
snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: September 24, 2013 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged  
I saw an install online with the connection you've said shouldn't be done.
Here are the DB-ALL functions. The locks and brake are covered as well as the hood pin if I have one.
DL-Lock
DL-Unlock
DL-Trunk
RS-Request engine coolant temp.
RS-Request intake air temperature (outside temp)
RS-Request RPM
RS-Ground when running
RS-Start command
RS-Stop from remote
RS-Starter
RS-Ignition command
RS-Ignition from RS
RS-Aux1
RS-Aux2
ST-Hand brake
ST-Hood
ST-Trunk
ST-Driver door
ST-Other doors
ST-Brake
ST-Ignition
OEM Keyless-disarm
OEM Keyless-arm
SS-Alert Status
SS-OEM Alarm
RS-Request Runtime
Looks like it's all about covered. Thank you again.
snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: October 21, 2013 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
I finally got around to installing the Viper. Install isn't that bad as long as you take your time and pay attention that everything is wired and set properly. A big thank you to Kreg.
Some other observations. With D2D the door lock wires are not required and the Brake Pedal shutdown is not required. And, if you are going to do this yourself or even ever want to change anything buy yourself the programmer for the Viper and for the DBALL.   
However there are 2 issues I'm still dealing with:
The parking lights do not flash during lock or unlock press even though I have the polarity set to + on the Viper. On the DBALL I've tried all 3 settings for light flash and still nothing. Do I also need to set the lights in the Viper?
The rear defogger: I thought I should use wire H2/3 but it looks like maybe I should use F2/9?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 21, 2013 at 3:36 PM / IP Logged  
For the rear defroster, use H2/3. With the BitWriter you can program it to Defrost and select the correct
"Pulse" or "Latched" setting.   Menu 3, Item 11
If you tried everything with the 4704V and DB-ALL settings, why not just go W2W with the Parking Lights.
Set the Vipers' Jumper/Fuse to (+) and make a direct connection from H1/5 White wire to :
Parking Lights (+)     RED / Blue (+)        @ electric brake pre-wiring left of steering column, White 6 pin plug, Pin 4
Also verify that Menu 3, Item 12 is set to Option 1.
Soldering is fun!
snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: October 21, 2013 at 3:52 PM / IP Logged  
kreg,
thank you again. The manual states that Menu 3 Item 11 is from H2/9? I'll switch and see.rd wire it
Ok, I'll check Menu 3 Item 12 1st and if need be go W2W as you directed. You're instructions have really helped me. I don't know how you guys can lay backwards under dashboards all day long.
snutengine 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2006
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: October 23, 2013 at 6:10 PM / IP Logged  
The W2W was required for the parking lights. So, that part is done. I just set the Viper so that the lights are on when the vehicle is running. And now the lights flash during lock and unlock.
For the rear defroster I measured the signal on the yellow/black wire and the 12 volts is constant so "latched" with a button push. I set the Viper to latched and I need to measure the voltage when the remote start is running to see if there is 12V on the wire since the yellow light for the button does not light up.
I really appreciate all of your help. You made a tough install much easier. Trying to program the remote is a bigger pain than the wiring I think.    
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