2005 Saturn Vue Alarm/Remote Start

yes you're right the DMM was on DC not AC so that explains that. I had not seen that I needed to program the bypass, I tried it over the weekend and it didn't work, I have it hooked up with the D2D cable. If I want to redo the tach learn is there a process that I need to follow? should the bypass be hooked up when I do it?

Yes, the bypass module needs to be programmed to the car ( besides being flashed with the ADS AL(DL)-GM4 firmware ).   Follow the steps on Page 11 of the install guide #10124. If you want to go D2D, set the Install Mode to Data ( one blink ), then continue to the Type 2 programming at the bottom of the page. To re-learn the Tach signal, the best way is to do a Factory reset on the U4296M, then make any program option changes, then just start the car with the key. Look for the Parking Lights to come on and the Horn to beep for a successful Tach Learn.Soldering is fun!

Well I redid the tach learn and again got the 2 chirps that confirmed it worked, tried to program the bypass module but still no luck, can't get the led to turn solid green for 2 seconds, only green led flashing all the time. I tried to remote start and still had the same issue, engine cut off right away, so I disconnected the D2D connector and tried again and to my surprise it worked. I then tried to disconnect the other connectors from the bypass and tried to remote start again but that did not work, so i reconnected those back up. I'm confused how it can work since the 12v for the bypass module is provided by one of the wires in the D2D connector. Anyways, it works, that's the main thing. Thank you for your help.

I switched to W2W and reprogrammed the BM and it works fine now, thank you for all the help, I appreciate it. This is great forum with great members.

kreg357 wrote: I don't do many installs on manual transmission vehicles due to the liability issues.  I don't have access to any sources that list this information on your 2005 Vue, either. That being said, the typical vehicle clutch interlock switch is a normally open switch that goes closed when the pedal is depressed.  There could be two actual interlock switches on the clutch pedal if you have cruise control.  One of the switches will actuate at the very top of the pedals travel ( cruise control disengage ) and the other will actuate near the bottom of the pedal travel ( starter  interlock ).  You can disconnect the connector(s) to these switches and use a Digital Multi Meter set on Ohms ( continuity ) to determine the operation.  Use a relay connected to the correct wires to make that connection during the remote start.  In your case, if you connect the bypass module to the U4296M via the D2D harness, you will have the WHITE/ Violet GWR wire from 3 Pin connector available to control the relay.  In the diagram below, the vehicle's Green and Orange wires are connected together by the interlock switch when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. You really don't care what the logic levels of the signal are or which wire is in and which is out.  The relay will make the connection, just as the interlock switch does, when it sees the GWR signal from the U4296M.  This will allow a remote start without the clutch pedal being depressed and will not interfere with the interlock switch function at any other time. <img src="https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/clutch_bypass.jpg">

Is this diagram for clutch bypass for negative polarity at clutch switch or can be used for both positive and negative clutch switch wires?

That clutch bypass diagram will work for any polarity and signal type if the switch acts as a Normally Open type interlock. During a remote start the relay is energized allowing any signal through the normally open switch just like depressing the clutch pedal does.Soldering is fun!