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idatalink ads al ca + ads tbsl ha


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kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 26, 2013 at 3:35 AM / IP Logged  
Great news!  I would still try to use just the ADS AL CA module.  Start fresh with a Factory Reset, set the Install Mode ( two Blinks ) and then program to the Civic with the key.   It should do everything for you.  Save the ADS TBSL HA for another R/S install.  Once your friends and family see the Civic completed, they will keep you busy...  idatalink ads al ca + ads tbsl ha - Page 2 -- posted image. 
Soldering is fun!
6sick6 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2013
Location: Utah, United States
Posted: October 27, 2013 at 4:28 PM / IP Logged  
I followed your directions and removed the ADS TBSL HA, connected Bl/WHT to H2/9 and connected the remaining necessary wires to the ADS AL CA module and... everything seems to work! idatalink ads al ca + ads tbsl ha - Page 2 -- posted image.
only one hiccup I am aware of...
When the remote start is activated the doors unlock and will not respond to the remote until the RS is deactivated when it locks itself again..
Any ideas?
I owe ya a truckload of beer btw idatalink ads al ca + ads tbsl ha - Page 2 -- posted image.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 27, 2013 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  
Just a guess, but some DIYers have issues with the iDatalink bypass module doing both a Lock/Arm and an Unlock/Disarm. With your install using the
ADS AL CA with ADS AL(DL)-HA3 firmware using W2W mode, you should follow the Type 2 wiring diagram very closely.
The Vipers Green Lock output wire should be the only wire connected to the ADS AL CA's GREEN/ Black Lock/Arm Input wire.
The Vipers Blue Unlock output wire should be the only wire connected to the ADS AL CA's Blue/Black Unlock Input wire.
The Vipers GREEN/ Black Disarm output wire should be the only wire connected to the ADS AL CA's Brown Disarm Input wire.
Back to your problem. If you are referring to the Honda FOB's no longer working while the engine is running, that is normal. If you are saying that the Viper
FOB's won't lock or unlock the doors while the engine is running then your issue is the ADS 3 Pin harness with the White, WHITE/ Red & WHITE/ Black wires
and their connections. These wires are used to control the locks while the engine is running through the ADS AL CA. Of course, why it is unlocking the
Civic before a remote start is unusual and as a first guess, sounds like a wiring error. Perhaps if you listed the actual Viper to ADS AL CA connections and
Viper to Civic connections, we might notice something.
Soldering is fun!
6sick6 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2013
Location: Utah, United States
Posted: October 31, 2013 at 6:19 PM / IP Logged  
My connections:
Viper 5904
H1/1 Red      to   White (+) 12v constant @ ignition Switch
H1/2 Black    to   Ground (unpainted body)
H1/3 Brown    to   Siren (+)
H1/4 Wht/Brwn to   NC
H1/5 White    to   Red park lamp wire @ car dash fuse box
H1/6 Orange   to   NC
Door lock, 3-pin Connector
1 Blue    to   Bl/Blk (-) Unlock input @ idata
2 Not Used
3 Green    to   Grn/Blk (-) Lock/arm
H2/1 NC
H2/2 NC
H2/3 NC
H2/4 Grn/Blk    to   Brown Disarm (-) input @ idata
H2/5 Rd/Wht     to   Rd/Wht Trunk release (-) input @ idata   
H2/6 Green      to   Ylw/Blk Door Status (-) input @ idata
H2/7 NC       
H2/8 NC       
H2/9 Dark Blue to   Bl/Wht GWR (-) input @ idata
H2/10 NC       
H2/11 NC       
H2/12 NC       
H2/13 NC       
H2/14 NC       
H2/15 NC       
H2/16 Brown     to   Gray/Rd Brake status (+) output @ idata
H2/17 Grey      to   Yellow Hood status (-) output @ idata
H2/18 NC       
H2/19 Blue      to   Ylw/Rd Trunk status (-) output @ idata
H2/20 NC       
H2/21 NC       
H2/22 NC       
H2/23 Prp/Wht   to   Prp/Wht Tach output @ idata
H2/24 NC       
    
H3/1 Pink       to   Blue Ignition 12v @ Ignition switch
H3/2 Rd/Wht     to   White (+) 12v constant @ Ignition Switch
H3/3 Orange     to   Orange accessory @ Ignition switch
H3/4 Violet     to   Yellow (car Side) Starter @ Ignition switch
H3/5 Green      to   Yellow (Key Side) Starter @ Ignition switch
H3/6 Red        to   White (+) 12v constant @ Ignition Switch
H3/7 Pnk/Wht    to   Red accessory #2 @ Ignition Switch
H3/8 Pnk/Blk    to   NC
H3/9 Rd/Blk     to   White (+) 12v constant @ Ignition Switch
H3/10 NC
Idatalink ADS-Al(DL)-HA3-EN
GWR (-) input - Bl/Wht to   H2/9
Ground - Black   to   H1/2
12v (+) - Red    to   H1/1
Lock/Arm (-) input Grn/Blk      to   Green @ viper 3 pin door lock connector
Unlock (-) input - Bl/Blk       to   Blue @ viper 3 pin door lock connector
Trunk (-) input - Rd/Wht       to   H2/5
Disarm (-) input - Brown        to   H2/4
Ground (-) input - Prp/Ylw      to   Ground (unpainted body)
Starter (+) input - Blk/Wht     to   H3/4
E brake (-) output - Green      to   NC
Tach output - Prp/Wht  to   H2/23
Wht/Blk to   Bl/Ylw (idata to idata)
Wht/Rd (-) Unlockto   Grey (-) @ Driver door kick harness
White (-) lock   to   Blue (-) @ Driver door kick harness
Ylw/Blk Door status (-) output to   H2/6
Ylw/Rd Trunk status (-) output to   H2/19
Yellow Hood status (-) output   to   H2/17
Brwn/Rd - CANH   to   Pin 4 @ Ignition
Brwn/Ylw - CANL to   Pin 3 @ Ignition
Org/Blk - Key data  to   Pin 6 @ Ignition
Pink - Igniton (+) Input        to   Pin 2 @ Ignition
Bl/Rd - Ground (-) Input        to   Ground (unpainted body)
Bl/Ylw - Door lock  to   Wht/Blk (idata to idata)
Gry/Rd - Brake status (+) input to   H2/16
6sick6 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: January 08, 2013
Location: Utah, United States
Posted: October 31, 2013 at 6:40 PM / IP Logged  
I just noticed that the printout I have for my cars wiring and the Idata instruction sheet are different when it comes to the ignition wires..
(Installed using these directions) Idata:
Pin 2 Ignition (+)
Pin 3 CanL
Pin 4 CanH
Pin 6 Key data
@ ICU gray 7 pin connector (@ ignition)
The instructions I have for 2012 Honda Civic from Omega R&D Technologies (last updated 2/2012) says:
CanH - Pink   pin 4 @ ICU gray 7 pin connector (@ ignition)
CanL - Blue   pin 5 @ ICU gray 7 pin connector (@ ignition)
Immobilizer data - light green pin 2 @ ICU gray 7 pin connector (@ ignition)
Interesting... idatalink ads al ca + ads tbsl ha - Page 2 -- posted image.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 31, 2013 at 9:19 PM / IP Logged  

Think that is due to the Pin 1 reference point each company has chosen.  iDatalink starts on the Left and Omega starts on the Right?

Wiring looks good.  There are a few things to check.

On the Viper 5904, the H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT should be connected to Chassis Ground

if you have an automatic transmission.  If you have a manual transmission, the iDatalink E-BRAKE STATUS (-) OUTPUT
GREEN wire should be connected to H2/2.

Also, you should check and verify that your Civic has the Factory Hood Pin installed.  The easy way is to get the

engine running under a Viper remote start and then pop the hood.  The engine will shut off if you have the Factory
Hood pin ( the ADS AL CA gets this info on the CAN bus and sends it on to the Viper H2/17 Grey via it's Yellow Hood
status (-) output wire).

Still not exactly sure of your problem and symptoms.  The Honda FOB's won't work during a remote start.  The Vipers FOB's should.

Does your Civic have the Factory Alarm?

You could try un-grounding the ADS AL CA's Purple / YELLOW wire.

Soldering is fun!
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