key or rf bypass?

Hi. Car:2013 Honda Ridgeline I'm hearing two different trains of thought regarding the key bypass. Key under dash vs. idatalink. I live in cold region. For my own install, is one easier than the other to install? One installer said the computer bypass has more chance to break. Which one has the least connections? With the keybox, do you have to put a ring around the ignition? Automate 4214a or DEI 4205v? Both Directed products. Anyone in the Buffalo area do installs? Thank you.

you can go either way. the cold shouldnt make one better than the other. I always use the data bypass for an easier install. The key-in-a-box requires an antenna ring to be placed around the ignition which can be a bit of a hassle

If you can get an ADS AL CA bypass module flashed with the DBI AL(DL) HA1 firmware, that would make your

install very easy.  Go with D2D communications between the R/S and the bypass.  The ADS AL CA will handlethe transponder bypass, locks and alarm plus supply the brake and Tach signals.   Here is a link to the installguide : http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA1/DBI-AL(DL)-HA1-EN_20130916.pdf

The Audiovox FLCAN flashed with FLC-AL(DL)-HA1 is the same thing.

Soldering is fun!

I got all the parts today. The bypass was flashes. What do you mean by a D2D communication? Also, can you suggest a good website and style for t taps? I'm not afraid to solder two wires together, I'm just not comfortable splicing into a wire. Thank you.

What parts did you get?     4214a or 4205v?

Which bypass did you get?     iDatalink ADS AL CA or FLCAN?

Which firmware and version is flashed onto the bypass module? 

Basically D2D is using the 4 Pin harness between the R/S and the bypass to handle the inter-module communications.  These are all the dashes Red lines on the iDatalink Type 1 install diagram.  You will need a DBI type D2D harness.  I'm not sure if the seller included it with the bypass module ( it comes with the FLCAN module ).  Without the D2D harness, you can go W2W between the modules by hard-wiring all the necessary dashed Red lines.   

As for T-Taps, I can't recommend any style or brand.  The only way I install a system is with all soldered connections.   If you can solder two wires together, the only thing extra needed is the ability to gently remove a small section of insulation from the correct wire to make the splice connection and some Scotch Super 33+ electric tape.  I believe T-Taps are not recommended by any R/S or bypass manufacturer and will fail eventually.

Soldering is fun!

Actually got a good deal on a Viper 4203v IDatalink ADS AL CA Flashed with the firmware you suggested. It came with 3 harnesses per the directions can go into the same slot. A) blue/white, empty, black, red B) same as above, but includes a white wire in the empty slot and has a 4 wire plug on end. C) same as A, but has a larger, red 4 wire plug on end in a different order. Id prefer as little connections as possible, so D2D is the preferred method. I think I may try to solder the method you suggested. Few questions if I may. I'm very appreciative of your help. Solder while connected or disconnected to bypass or R/S? Seems obvious but thought I'd ask. Do you cut the wires you don't use or bundle? Assuming I won't remove with sale. Plug in harness that isn't necessary? I see I'll need to solder : Data Security light input Security light output Door lock data wire Ignition In the Ridgeline, it states the door lock data wire is in the drivers door harness. Would you happen to know where that is? Also, would this starter render my factory key fob unlock useless? How come if it's only a one button remote? Ideas if this may be an issue? Should I cut the wires for left/right slider door, trunk (ridgeline does have one), trunk and door status, etc What's there e brake wire for? I think my quarters up here with question and I'm probably showing I should have this professionally installed, but a few more. "Ground when running from remote started must be provided before ignition". What does this mean? Also: "Do not program door unlock before start on the remote starter" "Do not change remote starter oem alarm control default settings" Wow. I'll probably have a bunch more. I love learning about this subject. I really appreciate your help. Rob

A couple red flags I'm getting from your posts... 1) you sound like you are trying to find the easy way out on this install. When it comes to a remote start there is no easy way out. You either do it right or you have problems. Plan on the install taking you at least 3-4 hours to do correctly. 2) No offense, but the questions you are asking are some very basic questions that anyone with experience should never have to ask. A remote start is not a good DIY project. 1 bad connection can end up completely destroying a computer module in the vehicle and cost you thousands of dollars.... I've seen it happen. 3) D2D will save you a few connections, but W2W is a hell of lot more reliable and easier to test if you ever have issues in the future. It's worth the extra few minutes to make your connections manually. 4) The only way to know if the factory fob will work will be to start the car with the key and try to use the remote... If my memory serves me right, the factory fob will not work when the car is running.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Many good points from Kenny.  

Here are some more answers...

Ahhh!  The Viper 4203V is a one button R/S system.  Luckily it also has the "unlock after remote start" feature.  Read

the owners manual for more info.  Honda vehicles turn off their RKE system when the engine is running, rendering your factory FOB's useless when the engine is running under a remote start. 

Personally, I always go with W2W.  It takes longer and doesn't look as neat as D2D but it always works.

If you got the ADS AL CA flashed with the DBI AL(DL) HA1 firmware, you should be able to go D2D with the Viper using

the 4 Pin harness you listed as "C" ( with the Red connector on one end ).  That Red plug should fit into the Vipers D2Dport.   You would follow the Type 1 diagram shown in the #12095 install guide.  All of the dashed Red wire connections are handled by the D2D harness.  Only the solid Black wires would be hard-wired.

I always bench prep the two modules together prior to vehicle install.  Any totally unused connectors can be left off.  All

un-used wires are cut to ~1.5 inches and neatly bundled together with heat shrink tube.  I rarely disconnect the vehicles battery, preferring to do the install "hot" with all R/S, bypass and vehicle connectors in place.

If you go with D2D, don't worry about sliding door, EBrake, etc.  They will be ignored.  If you go W2W, only hard-wire the

necessary signals.  The Type 1 install diagram is generic to many Honda vehicles and shows things that the Ridgelinedoesn't have.

Soldering is fun!

ok, I think I've decided to bench prep it all and then have a guy install. I enjoy sodering and am actually decent at it. would you mind please helping me out with the connections? STARTER primary harness light green black     (-) factory alarm disarm TO: brown     disarm (-) input on BYPASS       GREEN / WHITE     (-) factory alarm arm      TO: ? yellow     (+) ign out to alarm      TO: ? WHITE/ blue     activation input TO: ?      orange     (-) ground locked TO: ?      brown     (-) horn TO: not used      RED / white     (-) trunk release TO: not used      black     ground input      TO: bundled ground wires white      (+/-) parking light flash      TO: RED / black (+) under fuse box in HONDA STARTER remote harness            BLACK/ white     (-) nuetral safety      TO: green (-) ebrake status on BYPASS violet/white     tach input      TO: PURPLE / white     tach (ac) output on BYPASS brown     (+) brake shutdown input TO: ? gray     (-) hood pin TO: yellow     hood status on BYPASS blue/white     (-) rear defogger TO: not used STARTER heavy harness pink     output to ing      TO: ? purple     output to starter      TO: ? orange     output to access.      TO: ? red     (+) high current 12v      TO: ? pink/white     output to 2nd ign      TO: ? red     (+) high current 12v      TO: 12v power source? STARTER satellite harness blue     (-) status output TO: blue/white     gwr (-) input on BYPASS orange     (-) access output      TO: ? purple     (-) starter output      TO: ? pink     (-) ignition output      TO: ?      STARTER door harness         blue     (-) unlock output TO: blue/black     unlock (-) input on BYPASS (empty)     (empty) NA       green     (-) lock output TO: GREEN/ black     lock/alrm (-) input on BYPASS BYPASS WIRES REMAINING: BLACK/ white     starter (+) input TO: ?         yellow/black     door status (-) output      TO: ?         ORANGE / black     key data      TO: RED / blue at ignition switch on HONDA?       orange      doorlock data TO:      BROWN / black at drivers door harness on HONDA?       pink     ignition (+) input      TO: BLACK / YELLOW or BLACK/ green at ignition switch harness on HONDA?    WHITE/ black     security light input      TO: blue/orange at ignition switch on HONDA? WHITE/ red     security light output      TO: blue/orange at ignition switch on HONDA? red TO: 12v power source? bundled with others? black TO: bundled ground wires

Ok.  Here goes...

If you got the ADS AL CA bypass module flashed with the DBI AL(DL) HA1 firmware :

You will set the ADS AL CA bypass module to Installation Mode = Data.  The instructions for this are in the #12095install guide at the top of Page 8.   You will be following the Type 1 wiring diagram, using the info on Page 4 to locate the 4 vehicle wires the bypass module must connect to.  Aside from the D2D harness, only one other wire must be run between the 4203 and the ADS AL CA.  Connect the ADS AL CA PURPLE / White Tach Output wire to the 4203's H2/2 Violet/White Tach Input wire.  From the ADS AL CA, connect the Pink Ignition Input wire to the Ridgelinestransponder connector Pin 6 BLACK/ Green Ignition wire.  That takes care of the bypass module.  Here is the 4203 to vehicle wiring :

H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM    Handled by D2D

H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM    Not Used   H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)      Not UsedH1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT   Not UsedH1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED*        Not UsedH1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT GREEN/ YELLOW (-)  horn switch H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT* Not UsedH1/8 BLACK GROUND      Chassis GroundH1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH *** Set Viper to (-)  ***           blue (-)  headlight switch,

H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT         Chassis Ground

H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE ADS AL CA Violet/White Tach wireH2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE      lt. blue (+)  brake switch H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE     Supplied by D2D ( if factory equipped )H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG OUTPUT         Not Used

4-pin satellite harness wiring daigram

1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT      Not Used       handled by D2D 2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT   Not Used3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT       Not Used4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT   Not Used

Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram

1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT   BLACK / YELLOW (+)  ignition switch    2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT         BLACK/ white (+)  ignition switch 3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT yellow (+)  ignition switch 4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT      white (60A) (+)   ignition switch 5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACC2       WHITE/ black (+)  ignition switch   *** Menu 2, Item 6, Option 26 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT   white (60A) (+)   ignition switch

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector

1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT        Handled by D2D2 EMPTY NOT USED3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT*         Handled by D2D, but not used

You purchased a one button R/S system.  You will be able to unlock the doors during a remote start with the Viper.  You

will not be able to lock the doors with the Viper remote.

Viper programming :

Menu 2, Item 1 to Option 4  Tach ModeOptionalMenu 1, Item 1, Option 2  Horn confirmation

All wire connections should be soldered. 

Here is a link to ReadyRemote for more vehicle wiring info :

http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Honda&model=Ridgeline

Soldering is fun!