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probems with my first remote start


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dharvey1020 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2009
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 2:44 PM / IP Logged  
unit is a python 414. installed in to a ford five hundred.
Just got done with hooking up my electric start and it wont start. locks work and so does horn and light flash. when I hit the start button I get about 3 clicks out of the unit and that's it. I check the crank wire with a test light and don't see and voltage. I am not sure what I did.
thanks
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 2:51 PM / IP Logged  
Could you please list the wire you have connected from the remote start to the car, as well as the wire connections from your bypass unit. That way we can form a picture of what is going on.
Are you getting flashes from the parking lights? If so how many? It will tell you what might be wrong.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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dharvey1020 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2009
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 3:07 PM / IP Logged  
Main Harness
Python 414  Ford 500      
H/1 red constant input    Red @ ignition switch harness    ***
h/2 black chassis ground Chassis Ground
h/3 brown horn output    dark blue(-) in steering column
h/4 whit/brown light flash isolation wire?)not used
h/5 white pin 30 of light flash relay?)        BLACK/ lt. green (-)    @ headlight switch
h/6 ground when armed output?)not used
     Door lock harness
1 blue (-) unlock output  pink/lt green (-) @ DKP
2 empty
3 green (-) lock output pink / YELLOW (-) @ DKP
     Remote start harness
h/1 pink(+)ing 1 input/output light GREEN/ purple @ ignition switch harness   
h/2 red white 12vdc constant input not used      
h/3 orange accessory output  gray / YELLOW @ ignition switch harness     
h/4 starter output dark green @ ignition switch harness       
h/5 red 12vdc constant for ign relayRed @ ignition switch harness    ***
h/6 pink/white ign 2 not used      
h/7 pink black flex relay input  not used
h/8 red black +12V input for acc/starter        Red @ ignition switch harness    ***
*** There should be two Red +12V constant power wires in the main ignition switch harness. Split the load between them.
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT not used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT   chassis ground
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT     ???
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUTlt. blue/black (-)    @ driver kick
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT      pink/orange (-) @ switch
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT*       not used
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT       not used
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT        bypass module, if W2W mode
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT  not used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT      not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT     not used
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT     not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT     not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT        RED / lt. green + switch
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)      ***Set to N.C.        PURPLE / orange (-) pin switch or SJB, conn. A, pin 6
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT not used
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) not used
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT        not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT      not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT   not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT any wire NOT red (ac) any ignition coil or F.I.
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT     not used
dharvey1020 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2009
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  
I went with data to data with this
     PKFM Ford 500 Transponder connector
Pin 2: Green: TX Output Pin 3 WHITE/ Light Green       
Pin 7: Pink: RX Output  Pin 4 Gray/Orange
Pin 8: Orange: (+) Ignition Input Pin 1 Ignition
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 3:50 PM / IP Logged  

Do the dash lights light up? Does the theft light come on or flash?

Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 4:18 PM / IP Logged  

Here are a few thoughts :

1.  Did you connect the Neutral Safety Switch and set it to ON?

2.  Did you Change Menu 3, Item 1 to Option 2?  Auto trans
3.  Did you change Menu 3, Item 2 to Option 4?  Tach Mode
4.  Did you perform the Tach Learn process successfully?

Soldering is fun!
dharvey1020 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2009
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
mike. theft light flash when useing car starter. lights do not come on when the button on the remote start is depressed.
kreg
1 yes
2 no
3 no
4 i installed a tach wire
wouldn't tach mode only cause a problem after car starts.
buddholly 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 24, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 6:44 PM / IP Logged  
The theft light will flash if the bypass is not programmed correctly. It should be solid during remote start. When you remote start the led on the pkfm should flash, if it's not you probably have a d2d issue, I personally would just go w2w, it's only three extra wires and will eliminate any d2d issues. Your ignition wire on the PKFM should go to the main vehicle ignition, not the ignition wire on the PATS connector.
You will also have to set it to auto trans mode and also learn your tach signal.
buddholly 
Copper - Posts: 244
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 24, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged  
Just re-read your post about the connections you made. The RED / white h2 wire needs to be hooked up 12v. it powers the ignition circuit of the remote start unit.
Nevermind, didn't have the manual pulled up it powers the 2nd ign output.
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: December 07, 2013 at 7:42 PM / IP Logged  
Are you getting any flashes on the parking lights after it fails to remote start?
All of your connections look to be good. Are your connections soldered? Did the PKFM program as it should?
As suggested in a previous post, try going W2W.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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