1998 gmc sierra has me confused

OK, I have a remote start installed on a 1998 K2500 GMC Sierra, 6.5 turbo diesel. This is a new install.Everything is working except the remote start function. I have the unit hooked up correctly as far as I can tell. Pink wire is hooked up to ignition and meters batt voltage during run and crank. Yellow wire is hooked up and meters batt voltage on crank. White wire is hooked up to IGN2 and meters batt voltage on Run and Crank. GM passlock is disabled in the PCM via reprogramming to turn it off. In either key start or remote start the "security light" comes on with the gauge test and stays off after the test. Pretty sure passlock is not the problem.The PCM is programmed to not even query the passlock module. When the system is in valet or "unarmed", the truck will crank and start with the key. When I use the remote start, the truck cranks but will not start. It tries three times and does a slight extended crank on the third attempt. No joy, will not run. This doesn't seem to make sense to me. Any ideas where to look next?

I should add that with the system armed you can turn the key and power the truck up but you cannot start it. The starter kill is engaged when system is armed,and disarmed in valet so that seems to be functioning correctly....

It would help to know what make/model the remote starter is and list your wire connections from the RS to what on the truck.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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Which Brand / Model or remote starter? 

Did you set the R/S system up for Tach Mode, connect the Tach wire and do a Tach Learn?

Did you connect the WaitToStart wire or set a fixed delay?

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Which Brand / Model or remote starter?  Did you set the R/S system up for Tach Mode, connect the Tach wire and do a Tach Learn? Did you connect the WaitToStart wire or set a fixed delay?

Sorry gents, missed some stuff I guess. It's an Zenesis Z402AS, which is an easycar EW402AS rebranded. Zenesis is out of business for a year or two now IIRC. This was a NIB unit I picked up. Plastic seal wasn't even broken on the box. No online link to zenesis install manuals, but here's a pic of the outputs on the unit itself: The manual is the same, just a bit more detail on each connection. The wait to start is hooked up and functions as per. The tach learn went fine. flipped the dip switch and it beeped the one chirp to indicate learn and then I put the dip switch back. It is hooked up to the dash tach white wire and the WTS is hooked up to the WTS dash light wire. It really has me quite confused as to why it cranks but doesn't run. I've physically verified the wires are connected correctly ( I have a factory service manual with wiring diagrams), they're all tapped and soldered well, and they meter like they are supposed to. Correct me if I'm wrong: but as long as it cranks and there's B+ on the IGN pink wire it should run right? Even if the IGN 2 wasn't hooked up it should still run, just have transmission limp issues. Of course, I also have the white IGN2 wire hooked up so that's not and issue either. Very confused....

Actually, it just struck me that I don't have the shock sensor hooked up yet. The unit keeps B+ on the IGN1 wire when remote starting, but I'll plug it in tomorrow morning and see if it makes a difference. I'm skeptical though, since it still meters B+ when cranking....

Truck: Yellow: 0v acc, 0c run, 12v crank - connected to CN1, pin4 Pink: 0v acc, 12v run, 12v crank - connected to CN1 pin 6 Acc (can't recall color off top of head): 12v Acc, a2v run, 0V crank - connected to CN1 pin1 White: 12 V run, 12v crank -connected to CN8 pin 1 though a relay since it's only a 250ma output. I think that's all correct. It's late and I'm tired so memory might be off a bit. I metered all the wires and looked them up in the factory manual...

gr8twhite wrote: Truck: Yellow: 0v acc, 0c run, 12v crank - connected to CN1, pin4 Pink: 0v acc, 12v run, 12v crank - connected to CN1 pin 6 Acc (can't recall color off top of head): 12v Acc, a2v run, 0V crank - connected to CN1 pin1 White: 12 V run, 12v crank -connected to CN8 pin 1 though a relay since it's only a 250ma output. I think that's all correct. It's late and I'm tired so memory might be off a bit. I metered all the wires and looked them up in the factory manual...

Are these electrical tests based on the fact of you testing with the key or testing while attempting to remote start? How is the relay wired for the "white" ign2 vehicle wire? Is the selectable Green -250ma in CN8 pin-1 programmed for IGN 2 not ACC2? Test the vehicles "White" and "Pink" IGN wires in the truck to make sure voltage doesn't drop out during crank when the vehicle is attempting to remote start. If one or the other drops voltage during crank the vehicle wont start.I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

pts760 wrote: gr8twhite wrote: Truck: Yellow: 0v acc, 0c run, 12v crank - connected to CN1, pin4 Pink: 0v acc, 12v run, 12v crank - connected to CN1 pin 6 Acc (can't recall color off top of head): 12v Acc, a2v run, 0V crank - connected to CN1 pin1 White: 12 V run, 12v crank -connected to CN8 pin 1 though a relay since it's only a 250ma output. I think that's all correct. It's late and I'm tired so memory might be off a bit. I metered all the wires and looked them up in the factory manual... Are these electrical tests based on the fact of you testing with the key or testing while attempting to remote start? During remote start How is the relay wired for the "white" ign2 vehicle wire? The 250ma triggers the relay, the relay supplies B+ Is the selectable Green -250ma in CN8 pin-1 programmed for IGN 2 not ACC2? IGN 2 Test the vehicles "White" and "Pink" IGN wires in the truck to make sure voltage doesn't drop out during crank when the vehicle is attempting to remote start. If one or the other drops voltage during crank the vehicle wont start. No voltage drop. They both see B+

Answers above. This is why it has me confused. No idea why it is not starting. There is an IGN3 in the wiring diagrams, but it is for sub systems that are not for "run".

Apologies, answer one should have been OEM wiring tested with key on/off and verified the same when using remote start. All done with DMM.