remote start and + inputs

lol I know you're trying, but you do realize +12V and ground are not the same thing, correct? So a pulse of +12V and a pulse of ground still aren't the same thing. The remote start module is capable of sending +12V pulses and/or ground pulses. When it's not sending a pulse, it's simply "open" (neither positive or negative, it's just an incomplete circuit). It's just unfortunate that Avital (DEI) decided to make the door lock outputs only output a ground pulse. I wish it had a simple jumper like the parking lights do. I strongly suggest getting a professional involved in your install. Again, not trying to be rude. I've just seen my share of horror come from inexperience. I'd hate to see your car go up in flames for a $100 remote start...

Lol I know I might sound crazy, but I actually have a lot of wiring experience along with experience of working on a cars electrical system. I just have never worked with these door locks before, let me think over the advice you have provided me, and I will throw some more questions at you if I think of some.

Okay so after looking at some relay diagrams I think I understand how the Type A locks work vs the Type B. Let me know if I am on the right track and correct me if I am wrong. So the Type A, have 3 wires. One will have 12V+ all the time. When the lock or unlock switch is pushed, the lock or unlock wire will have 12V+, activating the stock relays. Type B, also have 3 wires. One will be connected to ground. Then when the lock/unlock switch is pressed, the lock or unlock wire will connect to ground activating the stock relays. Therefore, in my case, my remote start only sends out a negative pulse (completes the circuit), while I need it to send out a 12V+ pulse.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp And I could use this (first) configuration to wire in two relays for the lock and unlock... or use the 451M?

hey patthehat033, are you near KCMO?yuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Unfortunately no, I am near St. Louis. Are you from KC?

40 miles south of KCyuk

quiet rural missouri, near KC.

If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Ah so we are a pretty good distance from each other! lol

patthehat033 wrote: Lol I know I might sound crazy, but I actually have a lot of wiring experience along with experience of working on a cars electrical system. I just have never worked with these door locks before, let me think over the advice you have provided me, and I will throw some more questions at you if I think of some.

Alright, so the (-) door triggers work like this. This may be recursive, but most of the chassis is ground, or (-). When you open a door, the switch on the door jamb comes in contact with the chassis and feeds a (-) ground back to the circuit. This is what makes the lights come on and show the door ajar light (if applicable) on the dash. This (-) trigger is only half of the circuit. Somewhere in the computer is a relay that is triggered or an IC that monitors the input. Input being the (-). Back to the car alarm... The alarm looks for a (+) positive feed to trigger its relay. This will tell the alarm the door is open. Instead of the 'brain' looking for (-), it already has (-) and needs (+) to complete the circuit. Of course, this may be your issue - that your car has a (-) trigger. So when your car has a (-) trigger and you need a (+), the easiest way to fix this is to use a relay. All the relay does is flips a switch electronically by energizing a coil, which creates an electromagnet. In between this electromagnet is a 'plate' that moves when the electromagnet is energized. This creates the circuit. The electromagnet requires a (-) and a (+) to work. A basic 4-pin relay will suffice for your installation. The Coil: Pin 85 - (-) ground Pin 86 - (+) 12v The Circuit: Pin 30 - The load (what will be consuming power or ground) Pin 84 - The source (where the load gets its power or ground from) On a 5 pin relay, you have pin 84a. Pin 84a is in a normally closed position, meaning it completes the circuit when it is not energized. If the coil is not energized, pin 30 and 84a are connected. If the coil is energized, pin 30 and 84 are connected. Pin 84 or 84a can use (-) or (+) interchangeably. Depending on what polarity you need of course. Back to your car... You have a (-) door trigger. Your alarm needs a (+) door trigger. Use your car's (-) door trigger to energize the relay, so hook it up to pin 85. Because this pin is the switch to make the relay work, you still need your (+) to make the coil work. Hook pin 86 to a (+) 12V constant source (meaning it doesn't ever turn off). You also need to provide a constant (+) source for your load, so hook up pin 84 to a (+) 12V source as well. Lastly, your (+) door trigger on the alarm will go on pin 30. To recap: Pin 85: Car's door trigger Pin 86: Positive 12V Constant Pin 84: Positive 12V Constant Pin 30: Remote Start (+) door trigger No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

freqsounds wrote: patthehat033 wrote: Lol I know I might sound crazy, but I actually have a lot of wiring experience along with experience of working on a cars electrical system. I just have never worked with these door locks before, let me think over the advice you have provided me, and I will throw some more questions at you if I think of some. Alright, so the (-) door triggers work like this. This may be recursive, but most of the chassis is ground, or (-). When you open a door, the switch on the door jamb comes in contact with the chassis and feeds a (-) ground back to the circuit. This is what makes the lights come on and show the door ajar light (if applicable) on the dash. This (-) trigger is only half of the circuit. Somewhere in the computer is a relay that is triggered or an IC that monitors the input. Input being the (-). Back to the car alarm... The alarm looks for a (+) positive feed to trigger its relay. This will tell the alarm the door is open. Instead of the 'brain' looking for (-), it already has (-) and needs (+) to complete the circuit. Of course, this may be your issue - that your car has a (-) trigger. So when your car has a (-) trigger and you need a (+), the easiest way to fix this is to use a relay. All the relay does is flips a switch electronically by energizing a coil, which creates an electromagnet. In between this electromagnet is a 'plate' that moves when the electromagnet is energized. This creates the circuit. The electromagnet requires a (-) and a (+) to work. A basic 4-pin relay will suffice for your installation. The Coil: Pin 85 - (-) ground Pin 86 - (+) 12v The Circuit: Pin 30 - The load (what will be consuming power or ground) Pin 84 - The source (where the load gets its power or ground from) On a 5 pin relay, you have pin 84a. Pin 84a is in a normally closed position, meaning it completes the circuit when it is not energized. If the coil is not energized, pin 30 and 84a are connected. If the coil is energized, pin 30 and 84 are connected. Pin 84 or 84a can use (-) or (+) interchangeably. Depending on what polarity you need of course. Back to your car... You have a (-) door trigger. Your alarm needs a (+) door trigger. Use your car's (-) door trigger to energize the relay, so hook it up to pin 85. Because this pin is the switch to make the relay work, you still need your (+) to make the coil work. Hook pin 86 to a (+) 12V constant source (meaning it doesn't ever turn off). You also need to provide a constant (+) source for your load, so hook up pin 84 to a (+) 12V source as well. Lastly, your (+) door trigger on the alarm will go on pin 30. To recap: Pin 85: Car's door trigger Pin 86: Positive 12V Constant Pin 84: Positive 12V Constant Pin 30: Remote Start (+) door trigger

Thank you for the lengthy explanation, I appreciate it! However, I do want to mention I am very familiar with how relays function and how to wire them. I do have a question though, thank you for explaining the door trigger function. Although, do I even need to mess with the door trigger, since I am not installing an alarm on my car? I am just installing a remote start and the unlock and lock functions.