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viper 5706v remote start issue


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blackbeauty08 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2014
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: March 12, 2014 at 11:32 PM / IP Logged  
I've tore these forums up and down and just can't seem to find a solution for my remote start. Vehicle is a 2008 F350 CC w/diesel. Cannot get the vehicle to start with the remote start button. PKALL isn't hooked up completly yet, but key is off in the ignition. When the r/s button is pressed the remote shows the vehicle "running". The radio comes on and the lights as well, but never cranks over. I do get a 3 flash code, low or no rpm. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks
Josh
howie (aka: harryharris)
Silver - Posts: 355
Silver spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2014
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 3:47 AM / IP Logged  
First thought is tach.
Have you wired tach and programmed the unit?
Start engine, within 5 seconds hold control button,
A blue light should come on within a few seconds. Tach learnt.
Set unit for tach reading?
Menu 3 option 4
If not make sure unit is set for virtual tach.
Test before boxing up.
blackbeauty08 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2014
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 4:27 AM / IP Logged  
Yup, I have tried that. Even turned the tech mode off, and voltage mode. Supposedly virtual tach isn't for diesel motors. It's weird, cause the radio comes on and stays on, and you can hear the unit clicking. Brake wire is hooked up and works also
Josh
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 4:35 AM / IP Logged  
Possibly a silly thought, but are all three thick H3 +12V fused power wires ( Red, RED / Black and RED / White ) connected to a good +12V constant source?
Soldering is fun!
howie (aka: harryharris)
Silver - Posts: 355
Silver spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2014
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 9:36 AM / IP Logged  
Oh come on Kregg that was the next stage! viper 5706v remote start issue -- posted image.
By the way virtual tach works fine on diesels.
Test before boxing up.
blackbeauty08 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2014
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:
Possibly a silly thought, but are all three thick H3 +12V fused power wires ( Red, RED / Black and RED / White ) connected to a good +12V constant source?
Yes all three of the thick wires, are soldered to the blue/red constant going into the ignition switch
Josh
howie (aka: harryharris)
Silver - Posts: 355
Silver spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2014
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 11:42 AM / IP Logged  
I think now is the time to show us your connections, use the excell method as described in the post at the top of this page.
One other thing use your DMM and measure the voltage between your ground point and all of your fused inputs.
Test before boxing up.
blackbeauty08 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2014
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:10 PM / IP Logged  
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT----------------- +12v constant at ignition
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT-------------------------Siren +
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-----------------------
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT------------- not used.
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT------ Not Used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT--------------- Ground to Chassis.
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT---Not used
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------not used
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT---- not used
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)---- lt gr/purple drivers sill
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT------- is it needed??
H2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT------ not used
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT----- pkall bl/wht (while running)
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT---WHITE/ orange at ign
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT--------------------not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT-------------------------not used
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-------------------not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-------------------not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-------------------not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT----violet/white above brake pedal
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)----- Hood pin wire that came with alarm
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT----tied into H3/4 starter output wire
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)---not used.
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-------------not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT-------not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT------hooked to BROWN / yellow accessory
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT----dark blue wire
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT------------not used
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT--WHITE/ Orange @(ignition switch)
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)-+12v constant bl/red wire at ignition
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT---------BROWN / yellow accessory
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—--Blue/White (@ ignition switch starter side)
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------Blue/White (@ ignition switch keyside)
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) +12v constant blue/red at ign
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)------PURPLE / green acc2 wire
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed)----not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) +12v constant blue/red at ignition
H3/10 NC No Connection----------------------------not used
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT----------connected (works)
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT-----------connected (works)
One thing to note that I've seen elsewhere, wiring diagrams say that my first accessory wire is PURPLE / green and secondary is BROWN / yellow. I do believe i have my H2/22 and H3/3 wired to BROWN / yellow. Could this be a problem or can i change that in the viper programming menu
Josh
howie (aka: harryharris)
Silver - Posts: 355
Silver spacespace
Joined: February 17, 2014
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:23 PM / IP Logged  
NO! Disconnect immediately!
"H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT---WHITE/ orange at ign "
And again!
"H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT----tied into H3/4 starter output wire "
And yet again!!
"H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT------hooked to BROWN / yellow accessory "
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT----violet/white above brake pedal
Make sure this only goes to 12V+ when you push on the brake pedal.
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire)------PURPLE / green acc2 wire
Connect to BROWN / yellow and program as 2nd. ACC.
If you're very lucky you might not have fried the R/S part of your unit. Are the fuses intact?
Test before boxing up.
blackbeauty08 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2014
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: March 13, 2014 at 12:41 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, H2/10, H2/18, and H2/22 wires disconneced. I did use a DMM on all the fused wires and they are getting power on both side of the fuse, just to make sure a fuse isnt loose or anything. I did test the violet starter wire when hitting the r/s button and it only goes up to about 4.5 volts instead of the 14v when cranking with the key
Josh
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