2012 tacoma viper 5704 and pkall

That's the installation manual I went by. Now I'm confused I only need 1 key? So here's where I am, I checked all my connections again this morning they all were ok. I took Howie's advice and disconnected my tach wire and tried the virtual tach and still no crank. I did a search about 20 min ago and found a xpress kit trouble shooting guide to find out if my bypass is working. But this morning when I had everything down I tried my R/S and the bypass module lit up solid. So I'm assuming its working fine. Other side not while trying to diagnose I found when the R/S clicks and restarts, the Viper is clicking internally like how a relay clicks.

Also when I try to remote start my immobilizer light keeps flashing it never goes off.

Just some random thoughts... Have you tried a PitStop? Have you tried a remote start with the PKALL's 4 pin power harness disconnected and a working key in the ignition switch? Have you removed all the Vipers fuses and static checked them with a DMM? Have you used a DMM to check the Vipers +12V constant input wires for proper voltage right at the Viper plug?Soldering is fun!

What's a PitStop? I have tried to remote start with the PKALL's 4 pin connector disconnected with a working key in the ignition and still no change. No I haven't static checked the fuses with a multi meter And no to the third question, but I checked at all my spliced connections.

Define spliced please.

If the truck did not remote start when the PKALL was un-powered and with a key in the ignition, the problem is the Viper and / or it's connections / programming. Just verify that the truck will still start with the key while the PKALL's 4 Pin power harness is unplugged. There is a possibility that a fuse is bad even if it looks good. A static test with the fuse removed from the circuit using a DMM set to resistance is the best way. If you have 3 spare 30 amp fuses, test them and use them. There is a chance that a fuse holder is bad ( or a fuse is mis-inserted ), so testing for voltage after the fuse holder and right at the Viper plug is a good idea. Here is a link to the 5704 User Manual : https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Viper/G5704V%202011-08%20web2.pdf PitStop info is on Page 34.   If the truck stays running in PitStop Mode, most of the Viper H3 ignition circuits are working OK. This won't verify the Vipers Starter outputs, which appear to be your main issue. If PitStop Mode works, you can put a DMM on the Vipers IGN1, IGN2 and ACC outputs to verify they are all good. Unless you do it everyday, I have found that programming the Viper options with the remotes challenging. I took the easy way out and bought a BitWriter. Having a visual confirmation of the current settings is nice. For your issue, the Menu 3 options need to be checked. Menu 3, Item 1 set to Automatic ( still assuming your truck is an Automatic Transmission ) Menu 3, Item 2 set to Tach Mode and a successful Tach Learn or Virtual Tach and a remote start/remote shutdown. Menu 3, Item 8 set to Ignition2 ( default )Soldering is fun!