2011-2014 Explorer Remote Start Pictorial

This is a brief Pictorial for a DIY remote start install on the 2014 Explorer with SA stamped ignition key.  The 2011 through

2014 models should be the same, with minor wire color differences on the Transponder Plug.  This vehicle was a 80 Bit SA key, U.S. market XLT version.  It had power locks with RKE ( remote keyless entry ) and the Factory Alarm system.  The Push-to-Start vehicles are different and not covered in this Pictorial.

R/S system considerations :

1.  The vehicle has a hood pin as part of the Factory Alarm.  This signal can be used by the R/S system if the R/S system      can be programmed for a N.C. type hood pin input.   ( Signal is ground when hood is closed and goes to an open state       when the hood is raised.)2.  The vehicle has "one-touch-starting".  The ECM will control the starter crank time after a brief +12V pulse on the     Starter wire.  As such, no Tach connection is needed ( unless you wish to take advantage of the "over-rev" feature     found on some R/S systems ).3.  The vehicle has built-in "Anti-Grind" so there is no need to cut the starter wire to add that R/S feature.  Cutting the     Starter wire for "Starter-Kill" is still an option.4.  The Factory RKE systems works normally while the engine is running.  A simple "one-button" R/S system will work      well, saving install time and money.5.  Factory Alarm disarm happens automatically with a remote start.  ( Ignition, Accessory and transponder bypass. )

There are many good quality R/S systems available that will properly handle these requirements.  For this install an

Ultra Start U1172 for chosen.  The Avital 4113 is another good R/S system readily available to the DIY'er.   The transponder bypass duties were taken care of with an iDatalink ADS TB module flashed with ADS TB FM3 firmware.   Other choices more suited for the DIY'er are the Fortin EVO-Ride and the XPressKit PKTX due to their "firmware pre-loaded" status.  You will need two, non-clone ignition keys for bypass programming.

Disassembly :

Remove the lower dash panel by removing the two screws indicated and pulling the panel straight away from the dash.

There are several plastic snap retainers.  Photo below :

Remove the steering column covers by removing three screws from the bottom and gently separating the two halves.

This will provide better access to the ignition and transponder harnesses and exposes the PURPLE / Green (-) Horn wirein the steering column, if that feature is desired.

Remove the four screws retaining the knee plate as indicated :

Wiring :

Reach up behind the ignition switch and release / un-plug the main ignition and transponder connectors.  Gently pull

them out for testing and wire connections.  Here is a photo of these harnesses unplugged :

Here is a close-up of the main ignition harness with the wires marked :

Here is a detailed shot of the transponder connector :

Located behind the E-Brake release handle is the Trailer pre-wire harness.  This harness has a convenient +12V 30A

wire and the Brake (+) wire.   Just behind this connector is the BCM that has the Parking Light and Hood Pin wires.  Here is a photo :

Here is a close-up of the Trailer pre-wire harness :

Here is a picture of the BCM with the Parking Lights and Hood Pin wires indicated :

This is a close-up of the Parking Light wire :

Here is the R/S wiring :

U1172

6 Pin Ignition Harness

1 Yellow  (+) Starter Output                 Explorer Blue/White @ Ignition harness2 Green (+) Accessory Output             Explorer PURPLE / Green @ Ignition harness3 Red (+) +12V constant        _____ \  combine wires and connect to4 Red (+) +12V constant      /  Explorer Yellow/Orange @ Trailer pre-wire harness    Fuse @ 25 Amps5 White (+) Flex Relay Output   Not Used ( or Explorer Keysense Blue/Gray @ Ignition harness )6 Blue (+) Ignition Output       Explorer WHITE/ Orange @ Ignition harness

2 Pin Harness

Black (-) Main Chassis Ground        Chassis GroundWhite Selectable Parking Light Output        Explorer Yellow/Blue @ BCM Gray 10 Pin Plug  ** Set jumper to (+)

9 Pin Harness

1 Yellow (-) Rearm Output       Not used2 Brown (-) Disarm Output                    Not used3 Black (-) AUX1 Output           Not used4 RED / White (-) Trunk Release   Not used5 WHITE/ Blue (-) Horn Output   Explorer PURPLE / Green @ steering column  ( optional )6 Pink (+) Brake Input Blue/Orange @ Trailer pre-wire harness7 GREEN / WHITE (-) Hood Pin Input        Blue/Orange @ BCM Brown 26 Pin Plug  *** Program to N.C. input8 Blue/White (AC) Tach Input Not used9 Blue (+/-) Glow Plug/WTS/Trigger Input        Not used

Lock Harness

Green     (-) Lock          Not usedBlue        (-) Unlock      Not used

3 Pin Bypass Harness

Red      +12V ADS TB Red @ 4 PinBlack   Ground ADS TB Black @ 4 PinWHITE/ Violet    (-) GWR           ADS TB Blue/White @ 4 Pin

Follow ADS TB FM3 Type 1 install wiring for Explorer transponder plug connections.  Be aware that programming the

U1172 with a two button remote is challenging, a four button remote can be temporarily programmed/paired and used.

Because the ignition wires are thin gauge and do not require a lot of current, you can combine the R/S +12V power wires

into one wire, fused at 25 Amps.  There is plenty of space under the dash for the R/S system.  As always locate, test and verify all vehicle wires with a DMM prior to making quality soldered connections.

Soldering is fun!

What we were discussing earlier, Euro versions don't have the transponder plug adjacent to the ignition. Need a key in a box by-pass. That wire covering looks like the fabric backed Tessa tape as used on BMWs. Also we'd use a BROWN / yellow (-) haz control from the alarm.

What kind of tool is that with the yellow front? DMM or something else for testing? If it was a wire stripper for inline soldering I was gonna buy on immediately'08 Tundra CM, 4wd, 5.7L, Mickey Thompson 35's

It's a test lead from a DMM, known as a "bed of nails".

thank you Sir!'08 Tundra CM, 4wd, 5.7L, Mickey Thompson 35's

The Bed-of-Nails is a probe attachment that makes probing wires with a Digital Multi Meter fairly easy.

The yellow handled probe shown in this Pictorial is called a CircuitBuddy.  More info and a link to the manufacturers WEB site is

found in a short discussion at the end of this Pictorial :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133496

Both are handy tools that when used correctly make the install easier.

Soldering is fun!