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what remote start to buy?


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cumberland2way 
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Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: October 23, 2014 at 1:05 PM / IP Logged  
First time poster, but have visited this site for many, many years! Great site!
Just wondering which remote start/alarm/keyless entry to buy. I plan on putting this on 3 different vehicles, possibly. First one: 2004 KIA Sorento, then a 1999 Subaru Forester and finally a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac.
I'm pretty sure the Sorento doesn't have the transponder key, bought a madeup key at a locksmith and it works. Not sure about the others right now, just wanting to get this one first.
But I want a system that is reliable to buy when I need it for the other two. I'm not really interested in all the bells and whistles, just basic 4 button remotes will do fine. No LCD.
Question is, what's a good basic manufacturer for these that I can get good wiring diagrams and help from. Including you guys.
Thanks for your help!
tonanzith 
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Posted: October 23, 2014 at 1:53 PM / IP Logged  
Wow. It's really a personal preference and matter of opinion. I am a directed guy. They cost more but always reliable. Vesper or Clifford brand etc. some guys swear compustar is great. Others love good cheap crime stopper brand. My opinion. Viper or Clifford.
Gary Sather
cumberland2way 
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Posted: October 24, 2014 at 2:47 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the input there tonanzith, I will look into those. Appreciate the time. Anybody else.........
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 29, 2014 at 11:22 AM / IP Logged  

As Gary mentioned, everyone has their favorite.  Most major brands have products that cover the whole spectrum

of models, from very basic one-way systems to super fancy two-way color LCD remotes.  The prices go the whole
range, too.  If you stay with a major manufacturer based in North America, you will be OK.  Just remember that
no manufacturer will honor any warranty or provide any technical support to DIY installs.  Even obtaining full
installation manuals can be difficult but most of the popular ones are here in the Downloads section.  Be forewarned
that all these install manual were written for manufacturer trained professionals.  As such, they assume a lot, use
industry acronyms and are generally confusing...

As for vehicle wiring, there are several sources.  The 12V has a section for that.  Additionally you can use these

WEB sites for their wiring info :
Here is a link to Bulldog Security :  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Here is a link to Ready Remote :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

Of your three vehicles, only the Ford has a transponder based ignition immobilizer system.  There are many good

bypass modules to choose from but all need two working, non-clone, keys to program the module to the vehicle.
One of the more popular and obtainable would be the PKALL.  Here is a link to it's install guide :
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7507&productid=196&firmwareid=1636

If you haven't done this type of automotive work before, be ready for a big learning curve.  If you apply yourself

and dig-in with a lot of preliminary reading, etc, you will be fine.  You will need soldering equipment and a Digital
Multi Meter.  Probably best to start off with the Subaru, it is the most straight-forward of the group.

Here are a few current entry level remote start, with alarm & keyless entry systems :

Compustar CS600-AS    $80
Viper  5606V      $120    * only one remote
Audiovox Prestige APS787E      $80
Omega AL1630EDPB     $80
Avital 5103         $80    * similar to Python 5103P
Python 5106P    $130

There are many others that I did not mention, so do a bunch of research to see which system meets all your

needs and requirements.

Soldering is fun!
cumberland2way 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: April 16, 2004
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: October 30, 2014 at 1:44 PM / IP Logged  
Kreg, thx for replying, appreciate it. Also for the links.
So you have to have two original keys, hmmmm, I guess when you have the module to learn the code, it needs both? I do have two keys, but am curious as to why.
I've already ordered and due in today, the compustar CS-700-AS model. Seemed like the best to me, with the added transponder system. Actually though, going to start on the 2004 Kia Sorento.
I've been in electronic repair since, roughly, 1974. Old fart here, hahahaa. Work in maintenance at a automotive factory now. Had my own business for 13 years (technically for 18). Just getting a little old to do the twisting and bending that I use to............hahahaha.
I really appreciate you getting back with me. So, why does the units have to have two original keys? Thx for any and ALL help!!!
Ween 
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Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: October 30, 2014 at 10:21 PM / IP Logged  
Hi,
The Ford requires two original keys to program the bypass module, because the bypass module is programmed like an additional key. Ford usually explains the procedure of key programming in the owners manual.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/01p27og6e.pdf   pages 94-95.
Mark
cumberland2way 
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Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:34 AM / IP Logged  
Thx Ween, appreciate the input. Any help is always appreciated.
cumberland2way 
Member - Posts: 15
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Joined: April 16, 2004
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: November 03, 2014 at 1:26 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, bought the Computstar CS-700-AS with the CM600AS Module. Got everything put in, most is working just fine. The Direct Wire was the best install wiring diagram. Basically everything was where it said it was. The others were a bit hard to follow/find. This is a 2004 Sorento.
Now the tough question. The lock/unlock function is not working right. At this point, what I have is the FOB with unlock/lock all doors but the drivers door. And to throw in a kicker, the actual door lock/unlock will not work either.
The story (as best as I can explain it, from memory): Got most everything hooked up, working, and couldn't get the FOB to unlock/lock any doors, except the trunk glass. On a different circuit, I assume. Started trying to trace things out, and noticed no clock, or chime sound. Found a blown fuse under the hood, can't remember which, off hand, but it was a 10 amp. Now like everybody, I'm pretty sure I didn't short anything out to do this, though mistakes happen. Been wiring, soldering, electronic repair for 35 years. Anyway, can't figure that one out.
The door lock/unlock in the drivers side just will not work. Even with the key in the door, as far as the electronics work, the manual part of the lock works. And will not work with the lock/unlock switch on the door panel. Now I checked the Power lock/unlock wires (DirectWire) Blue and White and they are transitioning, changing voltage when I actuate the Fob for lock/unlock, but get no solenoid sound from the drivers door, only all the others. And, I can actually put 12V on the Unlock Motor wire, White, at pin 2 of this same plug and it will actuate the unlock motor.
Hope I explained this right. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. A nice schematic wiring for the 2004 Sorento would be very nice. I sent an email to Kiatech to ask them if they have this specific wiring for the lock/unlock circuit to the ETACS module. I don't mind paying a bit for that. But don't want to waste either. Again, thx.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 03, 2014 at 6:48 AM / IP Logged  

I am assuming that you are wiring it this way :

Compustar 2004 Kia Sorento

POWER LOCK         CN4 Blue/Black           BLUE (TYPE B)  IN DKP, @ DOOR HARNESS or White 20 pin plug, pin 10 
POWER UNLOCK    CN4 Blue         WHITE (TYPE B)  IN DKP, @ DOOR HARNESS or White 20 pin plug, pin 7

Being as your Sorento was working OK prior to install and you did find a blown fuse afterwards, I think I would

disconnect these lock wires and if the Sorento is not back to normal, troubleshoot the problem until resolved.

Sorry, I don't have access to the factory schematics for your car.  There might be some forum members that

do dealer install's on these cars and hopefully do have sources.

Soldering is fun!
cumberland2way 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: April 16, 2004
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: November 03, 2014 at 12:40 PM / IP Logged  
Yes Kreg, that's correct. It had to be something I did or the remote start. I really watched as not to short anything. But who knows now. Anyway. As they say sh it happens.
I found somewhat of a pin out of the ETACS module. Not sure if it's correct. I may take out the radio and check those pin outs.
Thanks again Kreg, for your help. Hey, do you know if Kiatechs info would have something on the door lock/unlock? Schematics and the such.
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