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viper 4706v & flcan bypass remote start


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gojaly 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2014
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 26, 2015 at 2:18 PM / IP Logged  
I have the main harness connected, the remote start harness connected, and I connected to ground safety wire (note on Idatalink diagram it says e-brake status not needed in 2Way mode), and the parking lights. I double checked all this. I thought I had programmed it for automatic transmission (menu 3 item 1 setting 2) but I redid it and still nothing. I get some horn honks if I play with the control button on windshield, specifically if I try to pair a remote. When I try to pair the LCD remote, the remote gives me an error beep and doesn't pair. When I try to pair the LED remote the horn honks and I don't know if that means its paired or not. Interestingly, when I connect through Bluetooth with my phone and press remote start button (or unlock or lock) on the iphone it says Command Received! But it doesn't do anything. No horn, no clicks, nothing.
Well! Hello there. Can you help me? Hey, don't just walk away.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 26, 2015 at 2:43 PM / IP Logged  
the neutral safety has to be physically connected to ground. the d2d ebrake is only good for manual transmissions.
if you paired it successfully you should hear a long honk.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
gojaly 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2014
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 10:16 AM / IP Logged  
Okay, I found the answer to my problems here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=134094
In short you have to put the remote start into pairing mode (for pairing a remote) and then on the Bluetooth module you have to access the feature menu and set feature #8 to Option 3 (supercode) and then I finally get something. Now just about everything works, doors lock and unlock, my power sliding doors work, the vehicle starts with the key in the ignition.
The only problem is it doesn't start without key in the ignition; must be something with my bypass module but I get no error light flashes on it. So what's the problem? It tries to start, it cranks nicely, and, like I said, it starts from remote with key in the ignition.
How do I get over this next hurdle?
Well! Hello there. Can you help me? Hey, don't just walk away.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 10:57 AM / IP Logged  
check your immobilizer connection pin 7 on the obd. make sure you got the correct wire white on the obd.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
gojaly 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2014
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 11:01 AM / IP Logged  
And yes, Tedmond[/B}, you were the one who helped me in the right direction with the long honk advice. I was getting a short honk when pairing remotes but no long honks, and I didn't know what that meant. And then luckily I found that webpage about the Bluetooth module and that helped me with pairing issue.
Now my issue is with my bypass module? How do you diagnose these things? Everything works if you have the key in the ignition or near it. Do I try re-flashing the bypass module?
I have a Flashlogic (I think its basically the same as idatalink) flashed with ADS-AL(DL)-TL5 firmware. You can see wiring details on previous posts.
Well! Hello there. Can you help me? Hey, don't just walk away.
gojaly 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2014
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 11:14 AM / IP Logged  
We must have been typing at almost the same time on our previous posts, tedmond.
I checked my connection, took the tape off to inspect it and tugged on it. It was solid. And yes, its the ORANGE / black wire from my bypass module to pin 7 (white) on OBD.
Well! Hello there. Can you help me? Hey, don't just walk away.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 11:16 AM / IP Logged  
when it was flashed, was it flashed as DBI-DL-TL5?
the data will allow for all features to work, however the gwr signal is coded differently on the dbi firmware.
look at the led on the flcan, during remote start it should be flashing green. if it doesn;t flash green thats an indication a gwr problem
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
gojaly 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2014
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 11:29 AM / IP Logged  
I flashed it myself and I am pretty sure I flashed it with ADS firmware but I sometimes make mistakes. I had wired it up already using the ADS-AL(DL)-TL5 install guide so that is what I wanted to flash back on there.
I started my post with asking if doing a factory reset procedure erased the firmware on a bypass module. The guy I bought the remote start from said it did (to factory reset you disconnect all connectors and then press and hold the programming button while reconnecting data connector) so I believed him. I bought a cable from ebay and then I reflashed my bypass module myself. A dialog box came up on my computer and said the flash was a success so I guess it worked.
Well! Hello there. Can you help me? Hey, don't just walk away.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 11:30 AM / IP Logged  
the wiring for ads-aldl-tl5 is the same as dbi-dl-tl5. the only thing thats different is the communication protocol.
1) reflash it for DBI, and proceed to reprogram to the car.
2) before remote starting program the tach as well. start the vehicle, step on the brake, press and hold the antenna programming button until the LED lights up. Let go of the button and shut the car down.
3) remote start and test the functions
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
gojaly 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2014
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: January 27, 2015 at 2:02 PM / IP Logged  
I tried FLC-AL(DL)-TL5 firmware and same issue, then I reflashed to ADS-AL(DL)-TL5 and tried again but still same issue.
Everything works fine with key in the ignition. Otherwise it just cranks and doesn't fire. Door locks work both ways.
Flashlogic's website does not let me choose DBI firmware for the module. Or I can select DBI but it changes to FLC automatically. I do not have the right cable to do it from idatalink or maybe it doesn't work anyway.
Well! Hello there. Can you help me? Hey, don't just walk away.
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