boot release & universal motor.

Does a test light use less than 500ma?

Depends on the make, Snap-On about 150ma. You're getting bogged down right now on irrelevant details. This is a 5* minute job, you also assumed AFAIK, only Compustar has a "high" current trunk release output, every other brand requires a relay unless the OEM boot release has a low current switch going to an inbuilt relay. *Actually about 5 hours to set up the solenoid, an hr. for wiring and testing.

I didn't assume anything actually, I asked a trusted mechanic what to do, and got given poor advice. I trusted his advice because he is usually spot on with everything, and he said he'd fitted this alarm in 3 cars and used a boot release without a relay. This is the motor I am using: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CENTRAL-LOCKING-2-WIRE-SOLENOID-ACTUATOR-MOTOR-UNIVERSAL-/230782233283?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35bbb16ac3 It's definitely not a 5 hour job, I've already got the motor fitted and it works fine. All I need to do now is wire up the relay correctly and the job is done. It's just a shame I didn't come here instead of asking my friend, as I've broken the circuit on the alarm now, at least there is another circuit I can use. Thanks for your help, and with regards to irrelevant details - I'm just asking about the light because I am interested to know the current draw, I'm not getting bogged down with it ;)

Final question on this before I wire it up (I'm fairly sure but can't afford to break anything else): 85 - Negative pulse wire on my alarm 86 + side of coil and 87 normally open - both connected to the same fused 12V supply 30 - connected to +12v of solenoid - not fused separately to the above Solenoid negative connected to car body ground locally. Thanks Conrad

That's correct.

Final question I promise! Current perm live feed from fusebox to boot is halfords 5a cable. I'm assuming you recommend this is uprated to 20a as you said 15a fuse. Out of interest the CL circuit on the alarm has a 15a fuse for the 2 motors on it...

a) I'd use a thicker cable BUT it's only being used for about half a second, y The ratings are for CONSTANT use. b) Door lock actuators consume 5-7 amps each. Trunk release actuators, about 10-15 amps.

So not too risky to keep as is. The boot pop motor is the same as the others in the doors.

I did the test with a DMM set to 20v on the broken circuit. Positive probe to +12v, negative probe to alarm wire. It shows a constant 12v regardless of depressing the remote fob. The white wire is similar, but this shows less than 12v (10 maybe) and increases to 12v when the button is depressed. Does this mean the white circuit is broken too? I was expecting 0 voltage until the button is pressed? Conrad

Probably, that alarm unit is very old school, been around about 16 years and the one transistor controls all the aux outputs. The only way to make sure is too try it.