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2015 nissan rogue, viper 5706v


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jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 16, 2015 at 8:33 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
sparkie wrote:
The ignition wires from the bypass and the remote starter are inputs to the modules. The remote starter should not put 12 volts out to the wire at the OBD plug. This is what the diode is for. It blocks the remote starter from putting out 12 volts onto the wire at the OBD connector. If you don't use the red wires in the 10 pin plug, then the remote starter can't put out 12 volts. It can only sense ignition. This is only true for units like DEI that have a dedicated 12 volt input for the ignition relay. If you don't understand this, then connect the wires as shown in the diagram. I have done few 2015 Rogues using DEI and ADSALCA modules. Program the bypass for DBI and it should work fine.
Oh I see now! I suppose they show the diode there assuming you may be hard wiring which according to the above notes would require you to power the starter and ignition relays on a DEI system.
Actually considering even if you did do a hard wire.. Wouldn't you only have to power the starter relay since that is thr only wire listed to connect to thr bypass?
According to idatalink the only path for ignition is strictly input.
Anyway.. If i do this DBI the only heavy gauge necessary is the Pink.
Sounds rather nice.
Thanks!
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: February 17, 2015 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sparkie
Both the remote starter and bypass need to know when the ignition is ON. Ignition is required for programming certain aspects of remote starter and bypass needs to know current power mode of vehicle. The instructions are for any remote starter. Some wiring changes can be made depending on your particular system.
sparky
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 18, 2015 at 7:34 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tedmond
parking light WHITE (-) @ BCM White 40 pin plug, Pin 39. It's inbetween a blue and purple wire towards the end of the connector.
This turns on the parking lights, and lowbeam
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 18, 2015 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
tedmond wrote:
parking light WHITE (-) @ BCM White 40 pin plug, Pin 39. It's inbetween a blue and purple wire towards the end of the connector.
This turns on the parking lights, and lowbeam
I need to use a relay for that?
And that is lowbeam and parking lights? I kind of just want parking lights.
My question is this now. If he leaves his car on Auto light option (if that is an option). Is there even a point to wiring that in?
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 18, 2015 at 4:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tedmond
no relay needed its low current negative. you should wire it in for visual indications.
if you just want parking lights, you'll have to diode isolate your parking lights, rear is in the kick and fronts are in the engine bay
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 20, 2015 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
tedmond wrote:
no relay needed its low current negative. you should wire it in for visual indications.
if you just want parking lights, you'll have to diode isolate your parking lights, rear is in the kick and fronts are in the engine bay
Yeah on that note he can have his head lights come on.
Thank you so much for everything!
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 21, 2015 at 6:19 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
One last problem.
The car starts/stops perfectly fine when the main key is near the car.
The valet key which I removed the battery and key from is being used with the bypass module.
I did loops and tapped the loops to the back side of the valet key. Car will not start with just this.
I then took the key apart and taped the key to the board itself. Car still will not start.
If I put the other key by the door then the car starts fine.
I checked the white loop wire that ties into the WHITE/ red vehicle side immobilizer wire.
So wizzed off right now.
I hope I am doing something wrong.
mpe235 
Copper - Posts: 90
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 04, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 22, 2015 at 6:43 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mpe235
On the circuit board for the intelligent key there is a round piece at the top. Put your coil over that and try it again.
Nissan Master Tech.
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 22, 2015 at 11:04 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
Okay I will try that today.
Also I wired the rs trunk output to the trunk wire in the harness next to the obd port.
When i hit aux it says trunk and nothing happens. Is this because it is motorized trunk open and close? I hope I will be able to get it working!
Any thoughts?
mpe235 
Copper - Posts: 90
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 04, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 22, 2015 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mpe235
What color was the wire you connected the trunk to? I think it should be yellow. Test that wire while operating the switch on the dash. If it goes to ground when it is pressed then you should be able to control it with the remote start.
Nissan Master Tech.
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