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2005 F150, installing Avital 5303L and PKFM


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s20dbond 
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Posted: August 31, 2015 at 11:48 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
I'm new here. I've installed a couple of remote starts in my vehicles in the past, but never a full fledged alarm and remote start. Now, as the title says, I'm installing an Avital 5303L withe the PKFM bypass in a 2005 F150 FX4. I've already hooked up the PKFM, Heavy gauge relay satellite harnesses. Ive mounted the siren, led and antenna, but I am kind of confused on some things. I've studied the Avital install manual, Ford motor company wiring diagrams for my truck, and the wire color chart for my truck from Bulldog security.
1. Do I take the 4 pin cable from the PKFM straight to the D2D port on the alarm main box? The 4 pin cable came with connectors on both ends.
2. I plugged the shock sensor into the main box, and connected the blue wire on the main harness H1/7 with the extra green wire from the shock sensor connector. Is this correct?
3. Where do H1/10 (WHITE/ blue), and H1/12 (orange) go?
Thanks
Doug
s20dbond 
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Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: September 01, 2015 at 8:30 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
bump,
anyone? Maybe even point me to a previous thread that could help me. I did multiple searches, but came up with nothing.
Doug
dasbogie 
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Posted: September 01, 2015 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dasbogie
1. you can do that but if your avital isn't activating the bypass you may have to cut the 4 pin and hardwire to the avital or vehicle.
2. If you've plugged the shock sensor in the the brain then you shouldn't have to do any more wiring. the extra green wire would be to add sensors as well as the blue wire from the brain. It just gives you a lot of flexibility in adding sensors. Also, I believe they report different zones as well.
3. WHITE/ blue from avital would be the activation input which is used to activate the r/s maybe thru a relay using the factory remote or some other means than the avital remote. Usually not needed.
The orange wire would be the Ground when armed usually to activate starter kill relays, extra leds to blink when the alarm is armed something of that nature, usually not needed.
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s20dbond 
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Posted: September 02, 2015 at 1:26 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
Thanks for the reply. You wouldn't happen to know on an f150, a good place to tap into the neutral safety switch wire?
Doug
dasbogie 
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Posted: September 03, 2015 at 6:27 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dasbogie
if this is for the remote start, you do not need to, the safety is already built into the vehicle if it's auto trans. From the factory you can put the car in drive and try to crank it and it will not start.
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s20dbond 
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Posted: October 04, 2015 at 4:54 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
I've got everything installed,and for the most part, everything seems to be working fine. However, for some reason when the system is armed,and I activate the remote start, the alarm goes off and the remote tells me that a door has been opened. This vehicle has negative door triggers, and I picked them up coming out of the bcm, and diode isolated them. I even tried replacing the main brain of the alarm thinking maybe it was a defective unit.
Doug
s20dbond 
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Posted: October 04, 2015 at 11:03 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
Bump
s20dbond 
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Posted: October 05, 2015 at 7:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
No one has any ideas?
Doug
davep. 
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Posted: October 06, 2015 at 12:53 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.

I have no first hand experience with your problem, but I read a lot, and have a terrific memory. This is intended as fodder for further research on your part.

I believe this era of Ford trucks have BCM's that go to sleep. When the RS activates the ignition, the BCM wakes up, and the Avital sees a momentary low voltage that it interprets as an open door.

There is a Directed Tech article on this. They suggest diode-isolate the BCM from the Avital, AND provide 10K ohm resistor to each door trigger to keep the Avital's input(s) at >0volt, unless a door is actually open, pulling the input to ground.

You cut the wire for each door switch to the BCM.

Each BCM input gets a diode, non-band towards the BCM.

4 diodes with the non-band ends common to the Avital (-) trigger door input.

Join each BCM diode, and each Avital diode in the "center". The bands "face" each other, with the door switch, and the resistor connected at the "center" too.

 Connect one end of a 10,000 ohm resistor to each junction in the "center". 4 resistors total. Connect  the other ends of the resistors to 12V hot at all times. Hence the junction between the diodes will be "pulled-up" to >0volts at all times, regardless if the BCM is asleep or not. Until the door is open, and the switch pulls that input to 0-Volts.

I wish I could post the article and the diagram, but its on my other machine that does not have internet access, and I don't know how to get the file into this machine to post it. It can be found. Several mid-2000's Fords have this issue.

s20dbond 
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Posted: October 06, 2015 at 2:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote s20dbond
I found a DEI tech tips #1076 10 03. Is this the one you're referring to? It doesn't say anything about resistors though.
Doug
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