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Two guides and a non operating Viper 4806V


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hungry_eye 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: October 10, 2015 at 11:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote hungry_eye
Hello All, I am installing a Viper 4806v remote starter in my gf's 2010 Jeep Patriot. I'm using an Idatalink ALca which was flashed by the shop I bought the units from. The shop strongly advised me to follow the info from the idatatlink (document #21666). I was told this was a digital connection and not a typical "old school" bypass. It was also recommended I make wire-to-wire connections and not to use it in data mode. I took my time and made all the necessary connections following the idatalink info. The only wires I have connected to the car is power supply from the battery (connected to Viper from the main harness (pin 1) and remote start harness (pin 4) both red wires) and a ground from the main harness (pin 2) which also connects to the idatalink ground connection. And the 5 wires from the idatalink to ignition switch (Can low, can high, +12 volt, ignition, and mux wires). The idatalink bypass module works and is programmed, but the viper unit doesn't seem to work.
I followed the idatalink guide and it specifically states, "WARNING: DO NOT CONNECT ANY OTHER ACCESSORY, IGNITION OR START WIRE FROM THE REMOTE STARTER TO THE VEHICLE"
After the install, I cannot get the blue light from the control module to pair my remotes. I turn the key to the on position, press the button and nothing occurs. No single light flash, no confirmation- nothing happens. I'm scratching my head thinking there may be something missing. Something that is important that I've missed. There is many wires that are not connected and I'm a little uncertain what should be connected/not connected when using a digital bypass.
On a side note, I connected the hood pin and the neutral safety switch which is in the "on" position.
Thanks for your help and advice, I greatly appreciate it.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,415
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 11, 2015 at 3:29 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Here is a link to a Pictorial on your Jeep :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130393

An iDatalink ADS AL-CA module was used with the same firmware and W2W install method.

A few thoughts. 

The shop appears to have flashed the ADS AL-CA with the ADS version of firmware, not the DBI version due to their suggestion to

use Install Guide # 21666 instead of #21669.  This means that you can not go D2D with the Viper and must go W2W.  Make sure the
ADS AL-CA is set to Standard Installation Mode ( 2 blinks ) and lock it in, then program the module to the Jeep.

The Viper needs to have +12V power connections at H1/1 and pins 1 and 4 on the Remote Start 8 Pin harness.  Going by your info,

the Pin 1 RED / Black wire has no power and the Viper can not output a +12V Starter signal on Pin 5 that the ADS AL-CA needs.  You
will be connecting some thick Viper wires to thin iDatalink wires, but that is OK.

While there appears to be no direct connection between the Viper Ignition1 wire and the Jeep, there is via an internal ADS AL-CA

relay and the 1N4001 diode.  Make sure that wiring is exactly as shown in the diagram, with the diodes' band towards the Viper.

Viper and iDatalink use slightly different terminology for some R/S signals.  The one that confuses most novice installers is GWR.

This ADS AL-CA wire ( Blue/White on 4 Pin power plug ) should be connected to the Vipers Dark Blue (-) Status Output wire at Pin 5
of the AUX 24 Pin harness.  ( If you are not planning on using the Vipers Defroster output, you could use the Blue/White wire at Pin 2.)

As for the Viper not doing the remote pairing, this could be caused by the Viper not seeing an Ignition input.  As mentioned above,

follow the iDatalink Type 3 diagram and verify that the 1N4001 diode has the band towards the Viper.

Soldering is fun!
hungry_eye 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: October 11, 2015 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote hungry_eye
I cannot thank you enough for your help and expertise. You were correct; I did not hook up my RED / black wire and the GWR wire was hooked to the orange wire on harness one. After making those corrections, the unit paired with the remotes and I now have successfully installed a remote starter. My gf thinks I'm a genius for being able to get the remote starter to work. (I think she had her doubts)
It just goes to show you; with support from a community, virtually anything is possible.
Thanks again!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,415
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 11, 2015 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Great news and just in time for the really cold weather.  Two guides and a non operating Viper 4806V - Last Post -- posted image.
Soldering is fun!
hungry_eye 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: November 10, 2015 at 12:45 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote hungry_eye
My install victory is a little short lived. The remote starter worked fine for a couple of weeks, then it failed. While running from activating the remote start, we heard a weird sound from the remote and the brain stopped working. The parking lights and headlights were on and wouldn't shut off. I spoke to the shop I bought it at and they replaced the brain and I installed it with the same wire configuration. Now the replacement is causing the car to act up. The parking lights do not shut off, and we intermittently lose things like radio and heat when we step on the brake. Does anyone have any idea? I will look at the car and share where we have the wires hooked up. At this point, I'm scratching my head.
dasbogie 
Silver - Posts: 514
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 30, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 10, 2015 at 1:44 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dasbogie
where is your ground wire?   a loose ground can cause all kind of funky things to happen. did you solder your can hi, can low wires? If those connections are loose funky things happen as well. Did you unplug anything in the vehicle? If so make sure everything is fully seated/clicked into place. double checked for loose battery terminals?
Advanced
hungry_eye 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2009
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: November 11, 2015 at 1:46 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote hungry_eye
The ground wires were connected to a factory ground bolt. They are secure and tight. However, I failed to solder the connections at the Mux, Can Hi/low connector. I soldered them, but it seems the damage has already been done. If I use the factory key fob, door locks activate/deactivate as they should. If I use the viper fob, they don't activate/deactivate the door locks. The remote starter will work, but only runs for a few seconds (under 30) and the remote buzzes after it stops.
At this point, I'm not sure whether the bypass module is damaged or the remote starter, or both. Is there anyway to check or troubleshoot the cause of these faults? Any help and assistance is greatly appreciated.

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