the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

progressive locks, 2001 Ford Ranger, Avital 2101


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 11, 2015 at 6:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Hi there,
First time post but been lurking for a while...lol
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger that does not have power windows or locks. Does not have the wiring already there nor the oem parts to just plug stuff in and go.
I believe what I want to do is pretty basic compared to other things but I am a little confused on a part.
I have your basic two wire pull/push door actuators. I also just got a Avital 2101L. According to the really sparse directions it can do a progressive door unlock/lock.
Since it's a truck and I am the only one really driving it I would really like to only unlock/lock the drivers door and then if need be if I do have a passenger press the button again to do so. But by default I do not want both doors to unlock/lock at the same time.
I have all wires/connectors/relays so it shouldn't be an issue getting this going. I know how to solder and run wires to and from. But what I am really confused about is the wiring schematics of what they listed and why there are so many unlock/lock wires on the avital when my actuator only has two.
On the avital unit itself it says that the 200mA output can be used to open the other door actuator but I am guessing that I would need to use a relay since 200mA is not going to activate the actuator but it would be enough for a relay, yes?
I know which power wires to tap via 12v constant/switched... and the basic ground. I just don't know for 100% sure which wires are needed to do the progressive unlock/lock feature.
IE: I have 2 (two wire actuators), one Avital 2101L. ZERO switches in the cabin and plan on having ZERO switches in the cabin. I will strictly use the keyfob to lock/unlock. But would prefer to have the progressive unlock/lock feature by default.
I've searched and searched and this isn't a real big thing with Rangers unfortunately.
If you need pictures of anything please let me know.
Thanks in advance!
-Nigel
~nsg~
davep. 
Gold - Posts: 624
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 11, 2015 at 10:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.

Please read carefully. I just typed this entire post, and it went up in vapor when I submitted it. This is attempt #2. It takes time to do these posts.

Install and wire your actuators. Put one wire to ground, the other to B+. If the actuator LOCKS, the wire you put on B+ is the "actuator LOCK wire". Reverse the polarity, and the actuator should now UNLOCK. This B+ is the "actuator UNLOCK wire".

H1/9 violet UNLOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)

H1/7 violet/blk LOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)

Hq1/17 BROWN / blk UNLOCK 87a  = GROUND

H1/6 wht/blk LOCK 87a = GROUND

H1/8 blue/blk UNLOCK 30 = DRIVER actuator UNLOCK wire

H1/5 grn/blk LOCK 30 = BOTH actuators LOCK wire(s)

Now you need a relay for the PASSENGER UNLOCK (2nd unlock)

30 = PASSENGER actuator UNLOCK wire

87a = GROUND

87 and 86 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)

85 = 2101 H1/2 blue 2nd unlock wire.

There you go. The actuator wires (30's) are grounded at all times through the 87a contacts in the 3 relays. When a relay is actuated, it's 30 is connected to B+ on 87, and that actuator moves in that direction. Sketch it out, and it should make sense. Good luck. Please post back when you have it working.

newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 11, 2015 at 11:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Davep,
Thank you!!! I will be trying this when I get home on Friday!
Just for clarity,   I would need 3 seperate relays, and not use the built in relays on the Avital 2101? I ask because from the directions you listed above it looked like I needed two separate relays, one for the driver side and one for the passenger side but then you listed 3 relays at the end? (sorry if this is a silly question, I'm trying to fully grasp this, I'm pretty good with things like this but I think I am making it harder than it should be :-/)
OR, the first part that you have:
H1/9 violet UNLOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
H1/7 violet/blk LOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
Hq1/17 BROWN / blk UNLOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/6 wht/blk LOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/8 blue/blk UNLOCK 30 = DRIVER actuator UNLOCK wire
H1/5 grn/blk LOCK 30 = BOTH actuators LOCK wire(s)
The above is using the internal relay on the unit? (But you have the numbers listed as if it were a stand alone relay, to help me understand the function of how the unit works) Hope that makes sense.
The passenger relay I fully understand. Run the h1/2 blue 200 mA wire into relay 85, which triggers the relay to the lock/unlock via the pulse that it receives from the avital 2101.
I really do appreciate your time in helping me! Your post just cleared up about 90% of the confusion that was in my head! And I think you will clear up the rest!
Thanks much,
-Nigel
~nsg~
newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 12, 2015 at 12:05 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Actually I re-read what I wrote and sorry for the idiot question on the relay of the Avital 2101. It did not click until I read your post 3 times and you have the wire colors which CLEARLY indicate the relay numbers IE: BUILT in relay..lol
So then to edit my question above I would not need 3 separate relays. First relay which is built in via
H1/9 violet UNLOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
H1/7 violet/blk LOCK 87 = B+ Hot at all times (fused)
Hq1/17 BROWN / blk UNLOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/6 wht/blk LOCK 87a = GROUND
H1/8 blue/blk UNLOCK 30 = DRIVER actuator UNLOCK wire
H1/5 grn/blk LOCK 30 = BOTH actuators LOCK wire(s)
THEN I would need just s single separate relay (2nd relay if counting the avital 2101 internal) for the passenger side lock that utilizes the H1/2 Blue 200mA second unlock output.
Do I have this correct now? Sorry for not being able to edit the original post, I hate to clog things up without editing or being able to modify a post so that it doesn't confuse possibly future people with information...etc.
Thanks so far, I think it's clicking more... ;-)
-Nigel
~nsg~
davep. 
Gold - Posts: 624
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 12, 2015 at 9:41 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.

Yes, you've got it. Use the internal relays in the 2101. There are two internal 2101 relays: Lock, and Unlock. You have 3 wires coming in from the actuators. Driver unlock, Passenger unlock, and Both Lock. Each wire goes to a relay #30. So there are 3 relays. 2 in the 2101, and the external 2nd unlock. I put the numbers in the description mostly for proof reading my own post to be sure the circuit works. Sorry if I confused you.

What you have is a "reversing polarity" lock system. Experienced installers and DIY'rs  work with these systems all the time. No mystery at all. That's why I suggested sketching it out, and study it to familiarize yourself with the circuit. You may find this diagram helpful. It is in the Relay section of this site.

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram48.html

EDIT/ADD: I just had another thought. If you haven't installed your actuators in the truck yet, why don't you test-assemble the whole thing on your bench or kitchen table? Just twist wires together, and make it work. PUT A FUSE IN YOUR MAIN POWER WIRE. If you make a mistake, you blow the fuse instead of frying your 2101. I've used a piece of solder for a fuse. It works just as well, but doesn't cost anything. When you have it working on the bench, make notes of the connections, then proceed to install it in the vehicle.

newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 12, 2015 at 11:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Awesome! Much appreciated. I will be testing this out in my basement when I am done with work this evening. I definitely plan on testing it before I hardwire anything. Good point about the solder for a fuse! Never thought to do that, and I will use that if I can't find a spare fuse (though I should have one handy).
You know what is funny is I looked at that diagram before and didn't think it applied because I wanted a progressive lock/unlock feature. Actually I think I looked at all the diagrams for them and was still scratching my head.
I'm excited to get this to work. I really wish I would have done this years ago with how cheap the wireless locks are... I didn't realize for $35 you can get a 2101, lol.
I will definitely post an update probably afternoon tomorrow and let you know how the testing goes!
Much appreciated for the help! I wish there was way to give karma points/thanks on here for you!
If the wiring is all set for the test I think my biggest problem is going to be mounting the actuators...lol I wish I hadn't dynomatted my doors because that will make it a little more difficult to get to things and or "peel" away temporarily.
-Nigel
~nsg~
newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 13, 2015 at 7:04 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Just got done bench testing and I can successfully unlock the driver side actuator, then push again for the passenger side.
However when I push the lock button, nothing happens with either remote.
If I however hold the lock button down it does activate the panic mode just like the directions state... so I am now a little confused on why the lock doesn't lock anything?
Thanks for the help so far!
-Nigel
~nsg~
newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 13, 2015 at 7:18 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
OK well i decided to do one more thing.
I am currently testing with a 12v UPS battery so it's small not huge but perfect for little stuff like this.
I had the yellow 12v switched wire also connected with the 12v constant and violet/black for the above test. When I disconnect the yellow wire from that, everything works perfectly.
Is it because that wire should tell the unit if there is a "key" in the ignition and on the ON mode to prevent someone from locking it outside? That's my only thing. Everything is now functional if I don't use the yellow 12v switched wire in the current testing scope. lol
I feel this will work once I hook the 12v switched line to the ACTUAL 12v switch source in my truck, but please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks again,
-Nigel
~nsg~
davep. 
Gold - Posts: 624
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 13, 2015 at 10:08 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.

Yes, the yellow wire is the IGN input to the 2101. It will use this wire to auto-lock, and auto-unlock the doors if programed to do so. It also uses this input for domelight supervision, if connected and programed to do so.

It sounds like the 2101 also disables (ignores) inputs from the fob with the IGN (yellow wire) on. Some OEM Remote Keyless Entry systems also do this. I was not aware that the 2101 does this too. But it seems like it does.  This is why we test. To figure out what systems do and how they behave, so there's no surprises after it's installed, and less convenient to figure it out.

For a novice, you're doing great. I like assisting people like yourself. You're doing as much research on your own, then asking specific questions, then going into the basement and making it work. You're self-educating yourself. My role as "teacher" is to guide you, but not tell you how to do it.

This is a great thread. I'm enjoying it.

newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 16, 2015 at 7:39 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Welp I'm FINALLY done :-)
Was a busy weekend that started on Friday. I was doing my rear end via lift blocks and new shocks, this keyless entry, and adding an LED to my headlight knob just because I had everything apart.
So Dave I gotta thank you!! Your diagram worked perfectly! This was the first time I ever installed keyless entry into a vehicle that didn't already have it from the factory.
Install took me 3 days which I guess is too long definitely not something I would make money on but at the same time I take my time and do things right. I've installed stereo's before that's no problem and this really wasn't bad minus the initial figuring out the relays. The ONLY real issues I came across was trying to mount the actuators in the doors. I ended up having to use spacers to space them out from the inside of the door as there was either metal or cables in the way, luckily I had spacers and extra screws because the ones supplied aren't long enough. I used all 3 mounting points. I've seen some simply install it using that metal bar and two points but figured I didn't want anything to move considering the amount of effort in do this, might as well do it right. And fishing the wires through the door seals was a little bit of a pain.
I sleeved almost the entire wiring harness. I guess that's the geek in my when I do computers and take a lot of care/pride in doing wire management. I'm like that in our server room as well, it's nice to see things extremely neat and not wires everywhere.
I almost did not use the led and the valet switch and figured why? But, I wasn't aware that the led flashes when it's locked so I ended up using both. Mounted the valet switch down by the driver side center console, and would have liked to put the LED in the center of the defrost vent but typical Ford makes it impossible to remove that without something snapping so I ended up mounting it on the passenger side defrost and had a good angle to mount it once the airbag was removed. It's funny, because of the windshield I could not just drill a hole. So I took different size allen wrenches that I had and torched them and melted a round hole into the plastic in step... Worked really well and very clean actually.
Other than that it was just tapping wires via the ignition relay and motors. I soldered and heatshrunk every connection so nothing is ever going to come loose. I mounted the control unit behind the console to the left of the passenger airbag. Almost where the OEM control unit is. If you weren't looking you'd never know it was there.
Some after thoughts. Why didn't I do this sooner?...lol The guys on the Ranger forum said it's a MAJOR PITA, and I'm sure to an extent it is but there are far worse things I've done to my truck via seized suspension parts or what not and I would gladly do this than that! Looking back I should have done this when I installed sound deadening material in my cabin. I already had the doors/entire cabin bare and I found out the hard way that peeling off the RAAMAT and trying to get to things that I had completely covered was not cool... That's probably why it also took longer because everything was covered and made it harder to do the factory wire path. It's ok though, I got it :-)
So now by default I push once, and driver side unlocks and flashes lights. Push again and passenger side unlocks. Push lock and both lock and lights flash. I really thought perhaps I should attach the horn but honestly it would be annoying all the time to have it honk for lock/unlock. The lights is more than enough for me.
I did turn off the unlock feature when you shut the car off. Only because if you use the door handle it will automatically unlock the door so there is no need for the system to unlock the entire truck. I kept the lock on when the ignition is turned on for now. I guess that isn't bad.
Overall though I'm extremely happy I did this!! Thank you for all your help!
I would post pictures but honestly you'd only see the LED I put on the passenger side and the valet switch down by the driver, other than that there is nothing to see, it's all hidden ;-p
-Nigel
~nsg~
Page of 3

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Monday, December 6, 2021 • Copyright © 1999-2021 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer