the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2005 CRV with Viper 5103 and DBALL2


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 9:39 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Yes, the GWR wire is AKA the (-) Status Output wire. In W2W mode join those two wires together.
Soldering is fun!
azndrgn 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2006
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 10:54 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote azndrgn
Just wrapping up my bench wiring before heading out to the car. Any recommendations on how I should terminate these unused wires? I started to cut little pieces of heat shrink tubing and seal each on individually but it takes a good bit of time to do that and I'm not sure that it's 100% necessary. Is cutting them short and taping the bundle together acceptable or is there concern that any of them will short together or to the chassis?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 11:47 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Your first method whilst time consuming is best. Some people de-pin but that can be a real problem down the line if you either add things or want to remove and refit in another vehicle.
I find it perfectly acceptable to tape over provided you are using either Scotch 33+ or Tessa tape. Your 50c Walmart tape will unglue and fall apart within 4-6 months.
Here's a trick, de pin the power feeds (H3) pink/black and H1 white brown, you'll almost never need them.
The red, RED / black and RED / white on H3 plus the red on H2, solder together after their fuses so you have no more than two wires to solder at the end, far more convenient.
azndrgn 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2006
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote azndrgn
Most of the way through the install now and I've come up with a couple more questions. The DBALL2 wiring references tying into the immobilizer data wire which is pin 2 on the green 7 pin connector and the security light which is pin 5. I found the connector but can anyone verify the color of these wires? The keyless entry data wire is in green connector K on the back of the fuse / relay box, does anyone have a diagram that shows which connector is K?
Howie, I just saw your message and I've already done most of the connections with heat shrink and then taped them together to keep things neat. For all the splices I'm using scotch linerless rubber splicing tape. Do you have a wiring diagram for the gauge cluster? I'd like to try to get the tach wire connection at the gauges as you recommended if possible.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 3:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Wire at back of gauge is blue. As for that plug, it's confusing, look carefully at both plug AND diagram. The U.K. market plug is even a different colour!
I've buggered a DB - ALL 2 doing that so be careful.
Are you soldering the joints?
azndrgn 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2006
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 3:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote azndrgn
howie ll wrote:
Wire at back of gauge is blue. As for that plug, it's confusing, look carefully at both plug AND diagram. The U.K. market plug is even a different colour!
I've buggered a DB - ALL 2 doing that so be careful.
Are you soldering the joints?
Yeah I think I've got the immobilizer wires figured out. Looks like the drawing is showing the plug as if you were facing the female connectors. I really wish they would give wire colors instead of just pin numbers, would make me feel a lot better about making the connection. Yes I am soldering all the joints.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 3:34 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Good must solder. The vehicle colours are pastel and very vague.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,826
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
That why I like iDatalink, they always provide the wires' color and they are always accurate...    Here is their info :
Ignition    pin 6          BLACK / YELLOW (+) Ignition switch
Data        pin 2          White (DATA) Ignition switch
Security Led       pin 5          Blue/Orange
Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 6:20 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
If you worked on Euro cars especially French, you'd know it's pin number EVERY TIME!
azndrgn 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2006
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 7:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote azndrgn
I ended up counting the pins and when I was looking through the instruction to get the DBALL to learn the bypass code I found the wire color codes in the back of the book.....
So I am 95% there with the installation, 2 wires left. the lock/ unlock data wire for the DBALL and the dome light wire for the Viper. I found the dome light wire but I am having trouble with the lock/ unlock data wire. According to the directions it is in the back of the fuse / relay box, 17 pin connector K. I can't really see the back of the panel under the dash so I have no idea where it is, any recommendation on where else I can find it? or an easier place to reach / tap it?
Page of 3

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, May 8, 2025 • Copyright © 1999-2025 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer