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heated seats, ign vs acc vs const


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jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 10, 2016 at 9:55 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
Im putting heated seats in my finaces escape.
I understand vehicle wiring.
The instructions that came with these heaters are confusing me.
I know what 12v constant is I know what 12v ACC is and what 12 v IGN is but see this below what they state. now I assume with A they say put on acc cause if constant can drain battery, but then there is c asking for ignition?? dont the mean acc? but is this even required if A was on acc? Am I crazy or are these instructions crap?
A. RED WIRE - CONNECT TO ACCESSORY +12 VOLTS - 20 AMP CIRCUIT.
NOTE: IMPROPER INSTALLATION COULD LEAD TO BATTERY DRAIN IF CONNECTED TO A CONSTANT BATTERY
SOURCE.
B. RED / YELLOW STRIPE WIRE - CONNECT TO IGNITION +12 VOLTS - 5 AMP CIRCUIT.
C. YELLOW WIRE - CONNECT HEADLIGHT/NIGHT LAMP +12 VOLTS - 5 AMP CIRCUIT.
D. BLACK WIRE - IT IS RECOMMENDED TO CONNECT THE RING TERMINAL TO THE VEHICLE BODY USING AN
EXISTING COMMON GROUND POINT. IF ONE IS NOT ACCESSIBLE, CONNECT TO A GROUND WIRE WITH HIGH
CURRENT CAPACITY.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 10, 2016 at 10:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
Im assuming I can and should go red constant since RED / yellow needs i believe acc to allow activation.
Anyone ever get a kit with these wires am I right?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,450
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 2:23 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

The Red wire supplies power to the heater pads.  The RED / Yellow wire is for the control and relays of the kit.  The Yellow

wire is used for the indicators/LED on the control switch.

The instructions are pretty good.  If you leave the control switch in the ON position ( Hi / Lo and rotary switches ) and the

Red is connected to +12V constant, you could have a flat battery overnight.  On monetary type control switches it won't
matter unless you have the seat on when you shut down the engine.

Connecting the Yellow wire o the Headlight Lamp circuit is a nice feature if you don't want the heated seat switch

illumination on all the time.   It might even be possible to get switch dimming if connected to the right vehicle wire.

Personally, I connect them all together and go to a +12V source that is only on with Ignition.  That way the engine is running

and the alternator is supplying the power.  The switch light is on while the ignition is ON, too, but usually not an issue.

Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 5:32 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Follow Kreg's advice, much safer that way.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 7:22 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
I probably will wire it red and red-yellow to switched 12volt and yellow to the wire that lights the gear selector (illumination)
However am debating going red right to battery constant with heavy guage and red-yellow to switched 12 volt and yellow to illumination.
The set I ordered is push button with hi med and low setting not a dial or switch (its digital) I think by leaving the constant on and the red yellow wire switched when I turn the car off the module will also know to turn the heated seat off so that when power comes back it wont be on in the last mode I left it.
See I think the red yellow tells the module to turn on and off the seat controller. so by having continus power going in I imagine the module will know to go to off mode when the red-yellow wire loses power.
Or I play it safe.
I just dont imagine they would make both red and red-yellow separate if they were meant to both go on and off.
the red in my case calls for 20 amp (powering 2 seats) and the red-yellow 5 am clearly just a module power line.
This is the kit I got
LINK
Thoughts?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Don't if you wire directly to battery it will drain.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 8:03 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
ok so ill take the red and the red yellow to the same switched source
and the yellow to the illumination
thanks guys.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 8:45 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
Now I just need to find at switched source that can handle 25 amps.
Either that or run my own line anyway and use a relay and a switched source to make my new line switched.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 8:48 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Battery, ign. switched relay.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 9:33 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
Ok so I think with something pulling 25amp I shouldnt tap a wire in the car, this is a risk at overloading.
I will get a 30 amp relay.
I will connect a 20awg wire with a 30 amp fuse on it to the positive batter terminal, I will then route this through the firewall attach it to a 30 amp relay on pin 30, I will then attach pin 87 on that relay to the red & red-yellow wires with fuses from the seat kit, I will tap a acc wire in the car and attach this to pin 85 (the load from this shouldn't be an issue) and pin 86 to ground.
Then I will attach seat ground to ground. Doing all grounding to the chassis, and last but not least I will tap the illumination wire at the transmition shifter for the yellow light wire.
To me this sounds like the best way and the right way to do this.
Would you agree?
Others have just tapped into a 18 AWG switched wire thats in the car at the right location. But no one is 100% what that wire energizes and I believe that tapping 25 amps onto a unknow 18 awg wire is a risk right?
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