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heated seats, ign vs acc vs const


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
That's OK.
Your last sentence is quite right, why I suggested a relay.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 11:12 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
So from battery to inside at my relay its going to be like a 8ft run. I think givin the lenth and amps I should go 10awg from battery.
What do you think?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: January 11, 2016 at 11:21 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Not sure.
Don't use AWG but my conversion charts tell me it's 2.5-3mm.
If that's the same thickness as the main (H3) high current cables on a Viper remote that's fine.
You might try to find the feeder cable (Constant) to the dash fusebox, that would save you running out to the battery.
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 2:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
so the wire others like to tap is
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1      VIOLET/GREEN (+)      @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, BLACK 7-PIN PLUG, PIN 6
But to avoid over loading I think Ill go the relay route and source off of
12 VOLT CONSTANT      YELLOW/RED (+) (125AMP)      @ SMART JUNCTION BOX BLACK 1-PIN PLUG and tap the other as trigger.
This should be ok I think.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: January 11, 2016 at 6:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Actually, even though they fuse the seats at 20 Amps plus 5 for this and 5 for that, the entire system for 2 seats ( 4 pads and 2 control assy's ) only draw slightly less that 10 amps.  I have measured them at the full high setting with the newer style 11" x 18" carbon fiber pads.  I wouldn't have any problems with a mere 15 amp fused circuit.  Make sure the fuse is accessible just in case but that should be all you need. 
Soldering is fun!
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
These are the 11 x 18 pads.
There is a spare 20 amp in the fusebox for the factory heated seats she doesnt have am I going overkill with my plan and maybe I should just tap that?
Im thinking this over every possible way cause its for her not me lol
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,450
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: January 11, 2016 at 7:33 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
I'd go with that factory 20 amp output and call it a day.  Just verify that it is switched and not hot all the time.
Soldering is fun!
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 9:03 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
now i just need the kit to show up lol
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,450
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

The wiring is the easy part.  heated seats, ign vs acc vs const - Page 2 -- posted image.  It's removing those hog rings and the cuts on your hands from the un-finished edges of the metal chair frame.  heated seats, ign vs acc vs const - Page 2 -- posted image.

Do the pad install in a warm area.  Cold plastic has a tendency to break.  Old plastic is worse.  Remember to disconnect the cars battery for 15 minutes or so before you pull the seats out ( if SRS air bag equipped, yellow harness / connectors ).

Just looked at the kit you got.  Appears to be momentary switches.  heated seats, ign vs acc vs const - Page 2 -- posted image.  That means you can't set the switch to ON as you exit / shutdown the car and have them come on with a remote start.  Bummer.  Nothing better than getting into a semi-warmed up car with the seat already warm.

Soldering is fun!
jameselantra 
Copper - Posts: 104
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 11, 2016 at 9:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jameselantra
Yes they are momentary on purpose, she prefers that, I hinted I was thinking of doing it and she commented how she prefers OEM because of being momentary, so I hope I picked ok, for myself I would of probably not gone momentary.
Ill bring the seats in the house so they will be easier to work on. Done lots of work on cars before but never pulled off the seat covers should be interesting lol.
And yeah air bags, thanks for the warning.
The buttons match her interior too. Ill post pics when I do it.
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