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Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger


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tactical-gears 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2016
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:59 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tactical-gears
kreg357 wrote:
Not at all.  Just plug it into the DEI R/S brain and turn it ON.  The menus / options are displayed in English, making option choice easy.   Hard to get lost and make a incorrect change.
Awesome , i just ordered one so, i guess that puts my time in pause. I will go check though 1 more time. Just saw a youtube video not bad at all. Comparing the BitWriter and doing all them chirps ain't worth even trying for the other settings without making a mistake. lol
"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"
tactical-gears 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2016
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: March 02, 2016 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tactical-gears
kreg357 wrote:

Maybe the Vipers present door trigger input is NG.  You could try applying a chassis ground to this wire :

15.    Green       Â Â  (-) Door Input 

See if that gets you into programming mode.

Other that that, see if you can borrow a BitWriter.  They can be also be purchased ( EBay for under $80 ).

DEI 998T V2.9

Hey kreg357, we did get the remote start going finally. I called an audio guy to come check the wiring and not too bad just i had the green wire kill switch hooked up and he said it was not needed. He tried to program it with the valet but wouldn't budge. He put that bitwriter and did set to automatic finally and it showed that it had a lock to not allow programming, i guess not to bad if you have a bit writer (getting mine soon though). I also wanted to come here and thank you personally for the guidance and help you given me. Thank you very much for that. I did do a video with a kinda go along steps and wires that were used hopefully i can post up on pictoral section to give back to the site. The vid is not to bad but i tried. Thanks again my friend.
"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"
tactical-gears 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2016
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: March 02, 2016 at 10:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tactical-gears
First of all i want to Thank member kreg357 who is in this site, who guided me to get my post going and ultimately in the end it now works real nice, I also want to thank the car alarm guy who came and did the BitWriter stuff and checked my wiring...I wanted to post this video in hopes it can help someone else who may find this video helpful. The wiring you see in the video has been properly fixed in all aspects, everything soldered and heat shrinked etc etc. real nice, so bare with my video it was my rough draft.....And for the record i am not an alarm installer......
Installation was done on a 2006 Dodge Charger SE automatic vehicle with a factory alarm already.....
NOTES NOT MENTIONED IN VIDEO:
(1.) Video is for automatic vehicles: Make sure to program module from manual to automatic or else it won't work, It will keep displaying "Remote Start Not available" so change to automatic..You will need a BitWriter to do this as some modules have a lock on the programming feature options making the valet programming button to no use...
(2.) Do-Not forget to flash the interface Dball2 to your make and model of vehicle & follow the Dball2 programming when you wire it to the car.. You must also flash the interface module (Dball2) to your car model... You can flash it yourself in their site: xpresskit.com/Firmwares.aspx?p but you must have a computer to do so...
(3.) Make sure to use the D2D mode or the 4 wire connection from the Dball2 to the Remote Starter module.
(4.) Must do the "Learn Tach step" on Remote Starter..
(5.) Toggle switch must be set to "ON"
     
THE WIRES THAT WERE ONLY USED ARE BELOW:
Main Harness, 6-pin connector
H1/1     Red          (+) 12v Constant Input ----------------- Connect to 12volt (+) direct power.
H1/2     Black       (-)   Chassis Ground --------------------- Connect to ground Chassis
H1/3     Brown     (+)   Siren Output ----------------------- Connect to Positive (+) red siren wire
H1/5     White              Parking Light Output ------------ Connect to Park Lamps WHITE/ Violet (+) located on passenger kick
H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness
H3/1    Pink            (+)    Ignition-1 Input/Output --------------------------------- Connect to 5-pin plug to Ignition Pink/White wire
H3/4    Violet        (+)    Starter Output    ( Car Side of Starter Kill )------- Connect to 5-pin plug to Pink/DK Green
H3/6    Red             (+)    Fused (30A) Ignition-1 INPUT --------------------- Connect to 12volt (+) direct power.
H3/9    RED / Black (+)   Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input -------- Connect to 12volt (+) direct power.
Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
(9.)      Gray (-) Hood Pin Input (NC or NO) --------------------- Install the trigger pin under hood, pin is supplied in package
(13.)    BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Switch/Parking Brake input ------- Automatic vehicles ground (-) to chassis
The mentioned wires above were the only ones used in the Remote-Starter module...
BELOW IS THE VIDEO I DID..HOPE IT HELPS SOME, THANKS
www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCRlW3Ftf4&feature=youtu.be
Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger - Page 3 -- posted image. Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger - Page 3 -- posted image. Viper 5906v & DBALL2 on 2006 Charger - Page 3 -- posted image.
"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 03, 2016 at 5:15 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Glad you got it all working.  It's strange that your Viper came in a "Programming Locked" condition.  I used to mention

that when members posted problems making changes with the remotes but was told by others that they had never
seen a new or re-furb unit come from the factory locked.  When it is locked, only the BitWriter can remove that restriction
and make other changes.  Your unit is unlocked now, so the remotes should be able to make programming changes but
having a BitWriter is the way to go.

The video is good.  Shows the actual components, connected and in use.  A couple of solder joints and you're all set.

Soldering is fun!
tactical-gears 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2016
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: March 03, 2016 at 3:31 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tactical-gears
kreg357 wrote:

Glad you got it all working.  It's strange that your Viper came in a "Programming Locked" condition.  I used to mention

that when members posted problems making changes with the remotes but was told by others that they had never
seen a new or re-furb unit come from the factory locked.  When it is locked, only the BitWriter can remove that restriction
and make other changes.  Your unit is unlocked now, so the remotes should be able to make programming changes but
having a BitWriter is the way to go.

The video is good.  Shows the actual components, connected and in use.  A couple of solder joints and you're all set.

Thanks again, i think i should be getting mine today if not tommorrow, i ordered the one you ssid from Ebay. Hopefully i can try it out because when the guy plugged it in he was showing me all the options the module had, so i'm really curious how i eant the settings to really be. Not sure if you saw the video but i tried.
Thanks again for all the help
"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"
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