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Avital 4103LX RS in 2002 Camry


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vonericsen 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2016
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 5:05 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote vonericsen
I'm using the WHITE/ blue wire in the driver's kick panel.
I tested it and it does show +12v when I hold the trunk button on the stock remote.
I also probed it when I pressed the trunk release on the new avital remote and don't see anything happen.
The power wire I tapped also shows +12v so I'm not sure what else I need to test.
I have everything wired according to the negative trigger diagram and nothing happens with this relay. I hear other things clicking inside though like it's disarming the security first.
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 359
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lectricguy
Sounds like you have the correct wire. The Avital sends a disarm pulse with trunk signal, so that sounds correct.   Do you hear the trunk relay click when you press the Avital trunk button? Double check that the relay coil (85, 86) is getting 12 volts, and the connection to Avital RED / white is good. If the relay is closing with the trunk pulse, check the wiring to the relay contacts (30, 87a, 87)--make sure 87 and 30 are not reversed....post back with your findings. Your really close.
Lectric Guy
vonericsen 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2016
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 10:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote vonericsen
I don't hear the relay click when I press and hold the trunk button.
I checked some of the relay pins and found the following:
-87 & 86 both have 12v power (as expected by wiring diagram)
-85 has 12v power before I press the trunk release (not sure if this is expected or not)
-30 gets 12v when stock fob trunk release is pressed, but not when avital trunk release is pressed
There is a diode on the relay harness connecting 85 and 86; the line is on the 85 side. I think that's supposed to be there.
I tried measuring the current draw when pressing the avital trunk release button on 85, but couldn't get anything.
I swapped in a bad fuse that lights up on 86/87 side and I see that light up when the avital trunk release button gets pressed like something is trying to draw current, but I can't seem to get a current reading on 85.
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 359
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 10:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lectricguy
The diode needs to have the band to 12v source. Reverse the connections on 85 & 86.
Lectric Guy
vonericsen 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2016
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote vonericsen
I reversed those connections and still nothing :(
I tried a different relay after swapping those connections and still nothing.
The voltages on the different pins looked the same as last time too. Haven't tried for a current reading yet.
vonericsen 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2016
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 11:17 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote vonericsen
Well I just removed the diode entirely from the relay harness and now it's working!
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 11:34 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
vonericsen wrote:
Well I just removed the diode entirely from the relay harness and now it's working!
Good. You really lucked out that your trunk pop still works.
A similar problem a while back happened to a guy who fried his ignition (or acc circuit, I can't remember) on his starter by shorting a relay with a diode.
I'll explain.
Wiring the relay the way you had it, with the diode being already installed in the direction it was, meant the relay coil was shorting across, and not activating the relay. You had +12vdc fused at 10A going directly into your small -200ma trunk release wire. Obviously your remote starter has some built in resistance in that circuit, otherwise it probably would have fried the trunk pop circuit.
vonericsen 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2016
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 22, 2016 at 11:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote vonericsen
I know I lucked out on this.
This relay was in the car from a long gone KARR security system so I was just going to reuse it for this trunk pop.
I didn't think anything of the diode when I first took the harness apart to figure out the wire colors and pins they connected to and wrapped it back up.
While testing according to lectricguy's help, I pulled the wrapping off again and saw it and that got me thinking it may be the problem.
I was beginning to think that the trunk pop got fried at some point as I was doing all this testing.
Then I decided to pull it thinking maybe it was preventing the coil from energizing enough to flip the relay.
I'm ready to tuck all this away behind the dash and hopefully not touch it again.
Still trying to decide if I want to install one of these on my Jeep too.
I've certainly learned a lot on this install.
Couldn't have done it without the knowledge on this site and it's helpful members! So just wanted to say thanks again!
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