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kreg357 
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Posted: May 02, 2016 at 8:14 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Bypass module?  Which one?  Did it program OK?

Try a R/S with a working key inserted but not turned.

Soldering is fun!
jason556 
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Posted: May 02, 2016 at 8:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jason556
No nothing, the car would crank but not start all the way. Even if I put my key in and try to start it out gives me the same problem.
jason556 
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Location: New York, United States
Posted: May 02, 2016 at 8:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jason556
And I'm using a DBALL2, I followed all the instructions it came with.
jason556 
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Joined: April 18, 2016
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Posted: May 02, 2016 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jason556
Okay so it remote starts sometimes, I can't really figure out exactly when. Even my key works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.
kreg357 
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Posted: May 02, 2016 at 8:47 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

That could change everything.  We might have to start over.  The DB-ALL2 can do a lot more that just handle the transponder bypass.

Does your ignition key have a G stamped on the blade?

What firmware is the DB-ALL2 flashed with?  TL1 or TL2?

Are you going D2D or W2W between the R/S and the DB-ALL2?

Did the DB-ALL2 program properly in accordance with the steps listed in the install guide?

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: May 02, 2016 at 8:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

jason556 wrote:
Okay so it remote starts sometimes, I can't really figure out exactly when. Even my key works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

That shouldn't happen.  Adding a R/S should not change the normal key start-up.

Soldering is fun!
jason556 
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Location: New York, United States
Posted: May 02, 2016 at 9:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jason556
No its an O key. Sorry I'm being a hassle.
I'm not sure why the car didn't crank when I first put the key in. Now every time I keep the key in it starts fine. When I take my key out it gives me problems.
I'm doing W2w and the lights did flash like the install menu said it would.
And honestly the firmware I got from the company I got it from on ebay. They said they'll flash the firmware for my car.
kreg357 
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Posted: May 03, 2016 at 3:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

OK.  Here we go.  You have a 2010 RAV4 with the Factory Alarm system and the 40 Bit transponder system ( non-G key ).

You are installing an Avital 5303 with a DB-ALL2 flashed with the 402.TL1 firmware.  The latest Version is Ver 3.19 using the
DB-ALL2 w/TL1 install guide Rev: 20160106. 

Here is how you proceed.  On Page 3 of the TL1 install guide is a chart.  This chart gives you two important pieces of info.

First is the Install Diagram Type to follow.  For your RAV4 you will use the Type 1 wiring.  The second piece of info is a list of
the supported functions.  Basically, the DB-ALL2 will handle everything shown except the rear hatch.

Next we go to the Type 1 wiring diagram and the supporting pages with the wire colors and locations.  But first we have a big

decission to make.  D2D or W2W?  Your Avital 5303 can go DBI D2D with the DB-ALL2.  This will make the install easier but
there could be some complications.  An experienced Avital / Directed installer will know these complications.  I am not a Avital
or DB-ALL2 user but have heard mention of some of the possible issues.  If you go W2W, you should have no issues.  If you
go D2D, there could be problems with getting the DB-ALL2's Tach and Brake signal to the Avital. 

Of course at this point we have made a few mistakes.  The DB-ALL2 will handle the RAV4's locks and alarm for you but you

asked for and probably made direct connections from the 5303 to the vehicle.  These connections are not necessary because
the DB-ALL2 will handle them for you via its' connection to the RAV4's CAN Bus system.

So, back to the D2D or W2W choice you need to make.   In W2W mode you will make hardwire connections between the 5303

and the DB-ALL2.  That would be all the dashed Blue wires.  The 4 Pin D2D harness would not be used.  In D2D mode, you
would connect the 4 Pin D2D harness and it would handle all the dashed Blue connections for you ( with the possible exception
of the Tach and Brake signals ).  Either way, there are some wire connections that must be made between the Avital and the
RAV4.  You might have these done properly.  The main ignition wires were previously listed and include the external relay for the
Starter2 circuit plus the (-) Parking Light connection and chassis ground.

Anyway, before we go any further, you need to verify exactly which firmware is loaded on the DB-ALL2.  It needs to be TL1 to

support your RAV4.  And you need to decide on W2W or D2D.

I apologize for the misleading lock / alarm info provided at the beginning of this post.  No mention was made about a bypass module,

although I did ask in my first reply.  You confirmed that you had a bypass module and I assumed that your were using a basic transponder
bypass module and not a full featured CAN bypass module because of your lock / alarm question. 

What you are finding out is that a professional installer has a bunch of knowledge and experience that justifies the installation price that

he charges.  This is not exactly plug and play simple.  There is a big learning curve involved.  While this install is very easy due to the
DB-ALL2, it requires a good deal of research to do properly.  Things like bypass module firmware, D2D vs W2W, additional relays,
etc.  In this case the DB-ALL2 Type 1 diagram gives you most of the needed wiring.  There is the bypass module programming and
some programming and learning on the 5303 as well.  There is a full 5303 install guide in the downloads section that will help.

Soldering is fun!
jason556 
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Joined: April 18, 2016
Location: New York, United States
Posted: May 03, 2016 at 10:15 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jason556
Oh okay, I actually connected all of the Avital wires including the door locks. I hope the door locks won't be a problem and the Avital connection serves the same purpose as the DBALL2. I connected all of the necessary wires on the bypass module. The wires that were not required in D2D I didn't connect so yeah I'm pretty much operating on data with almost no W2W.
Most of the connections to the remote start I do think I made properly. I used two relays- one for the 2nd starter and one for the domelight supervision. I did connect the parking lights and I did ground all the relays and everything else necessary.
And honestly the bypass firmware I'm not sure about because the person I bought it from flashed it for me. Do you think I should change all my bypass connections to W2W? If anything I'll try to pay someone to reflash the bypass since I don't have the loader.
Also I don't know if this will help but going through the manual I noticed that the Virtual Tach is the default setting on the RS. I didn't program the virtual tach because I thought that the RS will recognize that I made the Tach connection at the diagnostic port. I'll try to reprogram that to wired Tach,but do you think that is a problem area?
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 03, 2016 at 6:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

At this point, you should probably go with DBI D2D between the Avital and the DB-ALL2.  While I don't use DB-ALL2's, I have heard

they work OK.  We will assume this is correct and do the entire install as DEI, the manufacturer of your chosen modules, wants it done.

First, you should find a way to verify which firmware is loaded on your DB-ALL2.  If the EBay seller thought you have a G key vehicle,

it would be flashed with TL2 firmware.  That would be my main concern.  Being as it is kinda working, it might indeed have the TL1
firmware and it's just your duplicated control that is confusing the issue. 

Next for the wiring.  We will go for the basic, bare minimum wiring.

➤ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector

H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT   Not used.  Locks and unlocks with doors.
H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT   To suitable +12V constant power
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT   To kit supplied siren
H1/4 EMPTY NOT USED
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT           To vehicle frame
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3 Not used
H1/7 BLUE (-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4       Not used
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3   Not used. Supplied via D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION         Probably not needed.  Do the interior lights come on with an Unlock?
H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT      Not used
H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT          White (-)  headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18 ** Set Avital to (-)
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT         Not used

Auxiliary harness (H2), 6-pin connector

H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT   Not used
H2/2 WHITE/ BLACK (-) AUX 2 OUTPUT        Not used
H2/3 VIOLET/BLACK (-) AUX 1 OUTPUT       Not used
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM Not used   Handled by DB-ALL2
H2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) WAIT-TO-START INPUT         Not used
H2/6 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM Not used   Handled by DB-ALL2

➤ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector

1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT (+) LOCK Not used   Handled by D2D harness & DB-ALL2
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT       Not used   Handled by D2D harness & DB-ALL2

➤ Remote start ribbon harness, wiring diagram
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY TURN ON      Not used 
2 YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM      Not used 
3 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION RELAY TURN ON Not used 
4 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN ON Not used 
5 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON        to external relay Pin 85
6 ORANGE / BLACK (-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Not used 
7 BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT   Not used  Handled by D2D harness

➤ Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector

H3/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT    not needed        EBrake signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE       not needed        Tach signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE    not needed        Brake signal signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2
H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1      not needed        Hood signal signal supplied by D2D harness from DB-ALL2  ***
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER Not used.
*** The DB-ALL2 will supply the Hood Status signal only if the RAV4 has the factory hood pin.

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram

H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT (STARTER SIDE)   yellow  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)       yellow  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8       cut wire
H/3 RED (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT         blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/4 ORANGE ACCESSORY CIRCUIT red  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H/5 PINK OUTPUT  IGNITION CIRCUIT white  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H/7 PINK/WHITE  SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT          pink  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 4
H/8 RED / WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V          blue (30A) +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7

Starter2 relay :

Relay Pin 85 to Avital Remote start ribbon harness, Pin 5  PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Lt Green @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2 through 7.5 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to White (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1

Wire connections from the DB-ALL2 to the RAV4 are shown in the Type 1 diagram in solid Black lines from the left side of the module.

Only 6 wires to connect from the DB-ALL2 plus the D2D 4 Pin harness.

As you can see, it's pretty simple.  Four wires are needed on the Avital H1 harness, none on H2, none on the 3 Pin Door Lock harness,

only one wire on the Remote Starter Ribbon harness, none on H3 and all the wires on the heavy gauge relay satellite module.

As mentioned, it is possible that the Avital can not handle the Tach and/or the Brake signals via the D2D harness.  If you can't get a

successful Tach Learn on the Avital after the DB-ALL2 has been successfully programmed to the RAV4, you can hard wire that signal to
the Avital from either the DB-ALL2 or the OBD2.  Same thing for the Brake signal.  If pressing the Brake Pedal does not shutdown the
remote started engine, hardwire that input signal to either the DB-ALL2 or the Brake Pedal switch.

Soldering is fun!
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