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RS and alarm install, 05 Chevy Express 3500


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prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: September 09, 2016 at 6:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
Looking to install a 2-Way remote start and alarm on a 2005 Chevy Express 3500. Would like to confirm if this vehicle has an immobilizer... Also, would also appreciate the wiring diagram for her as well. Looking into the iDatalink bypass with a Prestige APS-997E
Thnx in advance.
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
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Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: September 10, 2016 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
Should be the same as all other Express Vans series,
But you still need to verify the wires as with any install!
Wiring link: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46623
Passlock2 is standard equipment on all Gm vehicles of this year.
You only need a basic bypass for the Passlock2 if you are going to hardwire everything else. Otherwise if you want less wires to hook up you can do a iDatatlink bypass /convenience combo that can do locks/tach thru data also.
I like the xpresskit for GM vehicles. If you use the DBALL/2 you get 35 supported functions thru DATA. With just 1 wire to the vehicle. Then that leaves Foot brake, Parking lights, Side door, rear doors and 6 Remote start connections to ignition switch, and Constant +12v battery Power(Direct to battery for alarm) and ground.
DBALL/2 Functions in D2D mode.
CC-Heated Mirrors
CC-Heated Seats Activation
CC-Power Mirror Memory
CC-Power Seat Memory
CC-Radio Channel Memory
CC-Rear Window Defogger Activation
DL-Arm Factory Security
DL-Disarm Factory Security
DL-Door Lock Control
DL-Door Unlock
DL-Driver Priority Unlock
FOB-Control of aftermarket alarm with OEM remote
PK-Immobilizer Bypass-Data No Key Req'd
RS-RAP Shut Down (Retained ACC Power)
RS-Tach / RPM Output
SS-Entry Monitoring Driver Door Pin
SS-Entry Monitoring Front Door Pins
SS-Factory Alarm Trigger Monitoring
ST-Ignition Status
ST-Keysense Status
prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: September 11, 2016 at 9:12 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
lurch228 wrote:
Should be the same as all other Express Vans series,
But you still need to verify the wires as with any install!
Wiring link: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46623
Passlock2 is standard equipment on all Gm vehicles of this year.
You only need a basic bypass for the Passlock2 if you are going to hardwire everything else. Otherwise if you want less wires to hook up you can do a iDatatlink bypass /convenience combo that can do locks/tach thru data also.
I like the xpresskit for GM vehicles. If you use the DBALL/2 you get 35 supported functions thru DATA. With just 1 wire to the vehicle. Then that leaves Foot brake, Parking lights, Side door, rear doors and 6 Remote start connections to ignition switch, and Constant +12v battery Power(Direct to battery for alarm) and ground.
Thanks! I did the install yesterday using an iDatalink & Compustar CS6502-AS via W2W and ran into some hiccup. The remote start works fine but the door trigger gave me some issues.
I understood that the door triggers would need to be isolated. I first found the wires at the BCM and test the Front Driver Door --> TAN (-) in PIN B4, the PASSENGER door and REAR Cargo door --> LT. GREEN (-) in PIN A5, and the REAR Door --> YELLOW/BLACK (-) in PIN A10 and confirmed them with my multimeter with the black probe connected to (-) and the red probe tapping the wires. Each wire showed 12V at rest and .674V DC when I opened the door.
So following Tec Doc 1076 as a guide, I cut each wire and soldered a 1A diode with band facing away from the BCM and then soldered a diode from each wire (after the band side) going to the door trigger of the alarm. I initially twisted the ends of diodes going from the each BCM wire to the alarm door trigger but noticed my multimeter showed 4V DC at with all doors closed when measuring the alarm door trigger wire.
So I proceeded to wire each diode from the BCM wires individually to the alarm door trigger wire and for some odd reason, only the REAR right door triggers the alarm. The Driver, Passenger and Cargo Door don't trigger the alarm.
Using my multimeter, I noticed that if I measure btw the BCM the the inline diode on the cut BCM wires, the multimeter reads 12V with the doors closed and .674V DC with them opened but when I measure after the band side of the diode side, I get no readings (something like 10.5 mV) regardless of if the doors are opened or closed.
Any ideas? Should I get a DBALL since it gets the door status via data and the iDatalink doesn't? I have never used the DBALL before and thought you had to be a dealer to be able to get them flashed.
Thnx
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: September 11, 2016 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
You didn't need to cut the vehicle trigger wires. Only diode them from each other to the alarm.
Unless the Body Control Module is shutting down causing false triggers on the door and rear hatch/trunk inputs. This is more common on Ford's.
prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: September 13, 2016 at 12:54 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
lurch228 wrote:
You didn't need to cut the vehicle trigger wires. Only diode them from each other to the alarm.
Unless the Body Control Module is shutting down causing false triggers on the door and rear hatch/trunk inputs. This is more common on Ford's.
Oh wow. Guess I did more than was necessary. Will have to redo the wiring. Also @lurch288, would it be okay to use the dome light supervision wire as a trigger as well? Have you ever done this? That way, if any of the door were to be opened, the alarm would go off...
Regards
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: September 13, 2016 at 1:46 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
Yes the dome can be used just be aware if the dome light stays on after closing the door and arming the alarm it will notify with a secondary chirp if you don't wait for the dome-light to go off before arming.
prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: September 13, 2016 at 3:52 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
lurch228 wrote:
Yes the dome can be used just be aware if the dome light stays on after closing the door and arming the alarm it will notify with a secondary chirp if you don't wait for the dome-light to go off before arming.
I noticed in the settings of the alarm there is a dome light delay option to delay the door trigger arming to either 5 secs, 45 secs or Auto. Will probably have to use one of those.
Thnx
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: September 13, 2016 at 4:01 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
Using a relay to isolate will over ride the + trigger until dome goes off.
Connect 87 to ground, + trigger alarm input to 30 and 85 along with the negative lock output from alarm(using diodes as shown), Dome to 87a and 86.
With dome on and you arm the alarm it locks the doors with a - trigger connecting 87 to 30 and 85 maintaining the relay connection and sending negative to the positive trigger input of alarm. When domelight shuts off relay de-energizes connecting dome 87a to 30 alarm + input trigger. If domelight is off and you arm the alarm the relay can't activate due to no +12v. Now when door is opened it can trigger the + input trigger since relay is not active.
From memory this should do what you need if you want to eliminate the secondary chirp due to dome light being on when arming.
RS and alarm install, 05 Chevy Express 3500 -- posted image.
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: September 13, 2016 at 4:06 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lurch228
I mainly install DEI products but if the Prestige has the option to delay the the Door trigger arming then that is another option you can use.
prince504 
Copper - Posts: 108
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2015
Location: United States
Posted: September 13, 2016 at 11:14 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote prince504
lurch228 wrote:
Using a relay to isolate will over ride the + trigger until dome goes off.
Connect 87 to ground, + trigger alarm input to 30 and 85 along with the negative lock output from alarm(using diodes as shown), Dome to 87a and 86.
With dome on and you arm the alarm it locks the doors with a - trigger connecting 87 to 30 and 85 maintaining the relay connection and sending negative to the positive trigger input of alarm. When domelight shuts off relay de-energizes connecting dome 87a to 30 alarm + input trigger. If domelight is off and you arm the alarm the relay can't activate due to no +12v. Now when door is opened it can trigger the + input trigger since relay is not active.
From memory this should do what you need if you want to eliminate the secondary chirp due to dome light being on when arming.
Although the alarm system has a dome light delay function , I still wish to understand the relay setup you described and had a few questions...
- are the diodes on the (-) alarm door lock wire backwards? With their current orientation, a (-) signal wouldn't be able to pass through
- also how is the relay connection maintained if the door lock pulse is is for a split sec? The connection btw pin 87 & 30 would last barely 1 sec. I thought lock/unlock pulse from alarms weren't latched.
- why have the + door trigger connected to pin 85 at all if a (-) ground signal is sent to the +door trigger once the relay is activated anyway...
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