2010 Ford Fusion Manual Trans Ready Mode problem

Does the remote start have a (-) starter outputI drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

These tests need to be followed in order otherwise you may damage something! Test Clutch switch with DDM set to continuity for resistance accros switch when depressed. Test the clutch wires for positive voltage and Ground wire with a DMM set to continuity to verify that it's either a direct ground or a resistance ground. IF it's a direct ground then test the Switch to see if it has resistance built into it. IF switch test shows resistance when depressed then you will need to match the resistance with a resistor. IF positive is less than 12v, like 5v then it's a reference voltage and a relay and resistor will be needed across the clutch wires matching the switch resistance. Make sure the vehicle is out of gear and parking brake is set when testing this. IF no resistance across switch and no resistance to ground then test with a jumper wire to ground to positive side, if its a pull down then applying ground to the positive side that has voltage reading should allow the vehicle to start with out pressing down the clutch peddle. IF switch has no resistance across it and the ground wire has no resistance to ground and it starts with a ground pull down jumper wire to positive switch side. If it starts this way then use the Pink/White wire set (Using the jumper to set the polarity to negative)to provide ground to the the voltage side of the clutch switch pulling it to ground. Check and record all the above and post back the results. And more direction can be given if you need it. As always test first before you start trying to modify or connect anything to vehicle!

Awesome thanks for the info! I wont have the car again until probably this weekend but I will definitely run through that. The pink/white wire that is selectable, all it says is 2nd starter, ignition or accessory, doesn't say anything about the polarity of it. I found this on here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124125 would this car be the same hook up?

Reguarding the link: Thats exactly what you'll need to do. 2008-2010 Fusion is the same wiring.I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Ok perfect. Now with regards to polarity of the 2nd start wire, I suppose my best bet is hook up door trigger, then try to start (wont crank because of the clutch) but should still allow me to test that wire correct?

darmck wrote: Awesome thanks for the info! I wont have the car again until probably this weekend but I will definitely run through that. The pink/white wire that is selectable, all it says is 2nd starter, ignition or accessory, doesn't say anything about the polarity of it. I found this on here https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124125 would this car be the same hook up?

I was mistaken on the polarity of the Pink/White is not selectable only function is selectable. Here's the jumper charts for your unit to select signal output, JP1 is the one you need to set to the proper output! Then use a relay across the switch Pink/White to 86, 85 to ground, 87 to 5v clutch wire, and 30 to clutch ground wire. Basically mimicking the switch with the relay.

Fantastic, looks like I've got everything I need to finish this off. Thanks alot for your patience and advice! I'll post back with how everything turns out.

No Problem.

Ok, so I've got the car back today, unfortunately the dome light will not work because the car turns the dome on again when the car is shutdown, automatically making the car think that the door has been opened again and kicking it out of ready mode. I have gotten the car to start though by manually using the negative door trigger wire to make it think a door was opened then closed, so at least I know all my other wiring is correct. So correct me if I'm wrong but my only option is the diode isolation with 8 diodes and 4 resistors?

There is a discontinued bypass module for NC door triggers (DITMAZDA). I've never personally used one. Otherwise you'll have to use diodes and resistors. I don't know if DEI or fortin makes a bypass with a door trigger output? Might be another option.I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage