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2005 Dodge GC, Avital 4105L, Xpresskit PKUMUX


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gotthelife75 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2016
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 24, 2016 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote gotthelife75
Kreg,
I installed everything last night and programmed the PKUMUX with both keys.
The doors lock/unlock from the R/S key fob and the lights flash, but it will not start from the remote. If I press the start button on the key fob the green LED on the fob lights up, but nothing happens.
The red LED on the R/S is flashing as well. But it flashes for quite some time (several minutes) and then stops until I use the remote again for anything.
- I did not connect the hood pin to pin 4 of R/S 5 pin.
- I did not connect the On/Off switch to pin 1 of R/S 5 pin or parking brake.
Was not sure if parking brake connection was required, did not see it mentioned in your posts. I did connect pin 1 of R/S 5 pin (BLACK/ White) to chassis ground (Pin 8 of R/S 9 pin).
Not as important as not starting, but I could not locate the green connector at the BCM for the rear hatch release. The van does not have a power rear hatch. Only the button on the hatch you push to pop it open. Then the hydraulic lifts open it. I was hoping to use the remote to pop the rear hatch release.
I am interested in controlling the rear defrost. Would I connect to the R/S 5 pin Blue/White wire and then to the wire at the switch in the van console? I would assume I need to add a relay and resistor similar to the parking lights. Would the wiring layout be the same just a different resistor? Would you know what resistor(s) I would need?
Thanks! I am getting so close.... Hoping to be done by tonight!!! :-)
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 24, 2016 at 2:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The BLACK/ White wire at R/S 5 pin harness, Pin 1 must go to chassis ground as shown in the wiring list. You can run it through the switch if you wish to have a Valet Switch.
Soldering is fun!
gotthelife75 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2016
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 24, 2016 at 2:37 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote gotthelife75
I have the BLACK/ white from the 5 pin connected to Pin 8 of 9 pin and then to ground screw.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Good. Hood pin is a nice safety feature. You can add it later but for now make sure it's not grounded.
If you connected the Tach wire, did you program the 4105 to Tach Mode ( Menu 2, Feature 1, Option 4 ), and do a Tach Learn?
You might try disconnecting the PKUMUX antenna loop from the bypass module, inserting a key into the ignition switch ( but not turned ) and then a R/S.
Soldering is fun!
gotthelife75 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2016
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote gotthelife75
kreg,
I posted earlier from my phone and now see it did not go through. I had already done some additional testing last night.
I did the tach learning as noted in the 4105 installation guide when I first installed. The guide suggested that it would then use the same method when in use. Tonight I went ahead and programmed the 4105 as you just suggested and it still does not start.
Last night I did try using the R/S with a key in the ignition, just in case I messed up the PKUMUX programming and it still did not start. I just tried again after programming the 4105 for the tach.
More on the R/S LED. It only flashes after I lock the doors with the R/S remote. Once I unlock them it stops.
When I try a remote start, nothing at all happens. The van lights do not flash, R/S LED does not flash, nothing...
What else can I test to see where my issue is?
Thanks!!!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 25, 2016 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
You could try forcing a R/S via the WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT wire. Just touch that wire to chassis ground a few
times in a row and see if it tries to start.
You might try Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics.
Shutdown diagnostics: If the remote start activates but fails to stay running, the remote
start module has the ability to inform you of what may have caused the remote
start failure. Before performing shutdown diagnostics it is important that you let the
remote start shut off on its own i.e. let it attempt to start 3 times then shut down, if
this is not done the unit will report the shutdown you used to shut off the remote start.
Note: Shutdown diagnostics does not report if the vehicles factory immobilizer is
causing the problem.
To perform shutdown diagnostics:
1. With the ignition Off, press and hold the Valet button.
2 Turn the ignition On and then bock Off while holding the Valet button.
3 Release the Valet button.
4. Press and release the Valet button. The LED flashes to report the last
   shutdown for one minute or until the ignition is turned on, as shown in the
   following table:
LED Flashes        Shutdown Mode
I flash Timed out
2 flashes  Over-rev shutdown
3 flashes  Low or no RPM, low battery (voltage and virtual loch modes )
4 flashes  Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 flashes  (-) Hood Shutdown (5 pin Gray wire)
6 flashes  (+) Shutdown 15 pin Brown wire)
7 flashes  (-) Neutral safety shutdown (5 pin BLACK/ White wire)
8 flashes  Wait-to-start timed out
Soldering is fun!
gotthelife75 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2016
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 11:55 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote gotthelife75
I tried forcing a R/S via the WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT wire and still nothing.
I did the diagnostic test and get 7 flashes.
I have the BLACK/ white wire from the R/S 5 pin connected to the black wire from the R/S 9 pin. Then the black wire from the R/S 9 pin goes to a ground screw.
I also have any wire from the relays that go to ground connected to the black wire from the R/S 9 pin connector.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 12:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Strange problem. Seven flashes indicate a Neutral Safety issue but that wire goes to chassis ground. Double check everything, make sure all the connectors are fully seated. you could try pulling the two fuses for a couple of minutes and then re-inserting them.
Soldering is fun!
gotthelife75 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2016
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 2:29 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote gotthelife75
I disconnected the BLACK/ white wire of the R/S 5 pin from the R/S 9 pin and ran it straight to the ground screw and the R/S now works.... But I have to have a key in the ignition.
So apparently the PKUMUX is not programmed correctly. I tried to go through the programming steps again and still need the key in the ignition.
Step 7 of the programming is where I think my problem is. After placing the blue/white wire from the PKUMUX to ground I insert the key without the PC board into the ignition and turn to ON position. After 10 seconds I do not hear the chime and the van security light does not turn on.
Any thoughts? To ground the blue/white wire I have a jumper wire connected and just hold it with my fingers to the ground screw I installed. Is that OK, or should I not be holding with my hand and use an alligator clip, etc. to connect to ground?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 26, 2016 at 5:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
That is just one of the reasons I prefer data style bypass modules. A couple of possibilities.
Make sure the PKUMUX has good power and ground. Double check that the two wires from the PKUMUX are going to the correct side
of the cut MUX wire. Yes, use a jumper with alligator clips to ensure a good ground signal. At Step 7 make sure you turn the
key to the IGN position. Timing is critical. Additionally, make sure the antenna wire is wrapped the correct number of times
around the right section of the ignition cylinder.
Soldering is fun!
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