2012 Toyota Corolla + EZ75 Starter + iDatalink

Hi everyone. I'm currently installing an EZ-Starter EZ75 remote starter with an iDatalink ALCA (Firmware: ADS-AL(DL)-TL5, hardwired setting) into a 2012 Toyota Corolla (Automatic, 4 cylinder). IWith the help of reading posts on this forum, I was able to successfully get everything functional including the remote starting ... but there are some quirks I was hoping to get some quick tips on. I including the RS and iDatalink wiring diragrams for this model for convenience. 1. E-BRAKE / NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH: The idatalink calls for an "E-Brake Status (-) Output - Green" connection. I wired this to the "BLACK/ White, (-) Neutral Safety Parking..." on the 7P connector of EZ75. This results in the emergency brake needing to be enabled in order for the remote start to work. I don't normally use the E-Brake since it's an automatic. Is there any way to program the idatalink to look instead for the neutral safety switch activation over the CAN bus? 2. LOCK/UNLOCK WHEN ENGINE RUNNING: It appears i can't lock/unlock the car using the EZ75 remote after the engine starts. The factory remote still can lock/unlock. I believe this is a common issue, but wasn't sure how to adjust the wiring to fix this. Any tips? 3. STARTER CUTS ENGINE ON LOW IDLE: If I let the engine sit for a while when it's already warmed up and the idle lowers, the remote starter turns off the engine. This happens at around 900 RPM. The EZ75 claims to be "self-learning" for the tach. This can be a nuisance if I want the heat to remain running even with a warmed car. Any way to lower the tach threshold somehow? Thank you for the wonderful archives of great answers!

I think I may have found more information for #1 above (E-Brake / Neutral Safety Switch). I found this thread that for automatic transmission systems, the neutral safety switch / e-brake line should be set to ground (for the Viper unit in the thread). I assumed for safety purposes I should wire it up anyway but sounds like it isn't necessary. Tomorrow I'll ground it. I'll continue digging this board for #2 and #3.

Another quick update: I put the emergency brake wire to ground and that fixed #1. For #2 and #3 I am currently going to just live with it. . For #2 this means when I remote start the car I need to disarm first with the EZ75 and then I can unlock the door with the factory FOB. For #3 the EZ75 doesn't have a learn capability, just a verification procedure. So the starter will operate until the engine reaches normal operating RPM which I guess will work.