viper 5902 wiring 01 civic

Hello everyone! I'm new here and need help really bad, I bought the viper 5209 and they wanted $300 to install it so I decided to do it on my own. I've never wired a remote start but have installed a few alarms and tons of stereo stuff in the past 20 some years of driving. 2001 Honda civic lx automatic no factory security. Question: so far harness (H1) all hooked up It took me a couple hours to figure out the fuse wasn't installed in the alarm for the lights lol! Here is my issue for harness (H3) car won't remote start fob says remote start not available.... 1- Pink, Ignition 1 input/output........blk/yel 2- RED / White,  (30A fused)...ignition 2.......not connected 3- Orange, Accessory Output..............not connected  4- Violet, Starter output car side blk/wht 5- Green, Starter input key side blk/wht 6- Red, Ignition 1 Input (30A fused)...white 7- Pink/White, (30) Flex relay output................ Not connected  8- Pink/Black, (87a) Flex relay input................ Not connected  9- RED / Black, Accessory/starter relay input......white What else do I need to hook up?  Do I need to run the tach wire from (H2) or anything else? Like the hand brake or neutral safety switch? I have found the wiring document on the12volt but the wording on the diagram doest make it idiot proof lol! Any help anyone can offer would really help me out! Thank You!  Posted from my iphone 4

Sorry, it's the viper 5902 HDPosted from my iphone 4

H3/2 should be connected to constant 12 volts --White on civic

H3/3 to your accessory wire --BLACK/ Red on civic

All the other heavy gauge wires look OK.

What wires from the H1 wires connected to?? Need to have the red connected to 12 volt constant and the black to chassis ground.  Make sure to check and   veirfy the wires on the car with a DMM.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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H3/2 goes to White      +12v Constant

H3/3 goes to BLACK/ Red    ACC1H3/7 goes to WHITE/ Red    ACC2     Set Viper Flex relay to Accessory2H3/8 not used

Tach wire is the most reliable way to remote start.  Any Fuel Injector non-common color wire.

The Neutral Safety wire goes chassis ground for cars with auto trans.Hand Brake only required on manual trans cars. 

Set Viper programming to auto trans.

Soldering is fun!

I'm pretty sure everything on the h1 harness is good. Everything works, locks triggers, lights ect... I hooked up the other wires still no remote start H3/2 and H3/3 wire as you said. Do I need to run the tach input wire? From the H2 harness. Do I need to run the neutral safety input? Or anything else off of the H2 harness? My car doesn't have the immobilizer or any oem security. Posted from my iphone 4

I'd like to avoid the H2 harness just to use 2 wires on it, can't I just run in the virtual tach mode and use the neutral safety toggle switch in the on position so I don't need to ground out that H2/18. Just to avoid having 16 wires extra under the dash lol. I'm pretty sure I just need to switch to automatic trans mode at this point, I hope!Posted from my iphone 4

Those extra wires can be neatly bundled and secured with a couple of tie wraps or electric tape.  Personally, after I'm sure they aren't required for the install, I cut them to 2 inches and heat shrink tube them in neat adjacent groups.

Is it cold in Washington?  Tach mode, connected to a Fuel Injector, is very reliable.  Most comments on Virtual Tach aren't pretty, but if you try it and it doesn't work well, you can always connect the Tach wire and switch over to Tach mode.

The Neutral Safety wire must see a ground for the remote start to work.  Here is an excerpt from the Viper Install guide:

 Remote start input - 5-pin connector

1   BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT

Connect this wire to a ground source if installing this unit in an automatic transmission

vehicle. If this unit is being installed in a manual transmission vehicle then

connect it to the emergency brake wire. This input MUST rest at ground in order

for the remote start system to operate.

Important! Always perform the steps outlined in Safety Check section to verify

that the vehicle cannot be started in ANY drive gear and that the override switch

is functioning properly.

 

Soldering is fun!

Take the BLACK/ white to either the parking brake switch (or dash warning light) OR reverse light feed. Either will fulfil its function without needing the toggle switch. ONLY use tach, possibly blue wire going to plug marked service or test under hood in loom going over one of the suspension struts. Come to think of it tach is probably a blue wire going to the rev counter. Inst. panel removal is dead easy and you will then get access to door and trunk/hatch triggers if the warning lights are there. Connect the RED / white. If you run all your constants to the white lead at the ignition you won't need any fuses, that lead has a factory 50amp fuse. Locks are easily accessed via a driver side kick panel plug. Have we mentioned by-passes. This is going to be a 4 pager.

The toggle switch is wired to the unit so I was going to leave it hooked up in the on position. I wired the black and white to ground. I also wired everything as the replys came in. Every thing is wired up correctly, the car still starts with the key. As soon as I hit remote start the fob says remote start not available. I'm going to try virtual tach at first because it's on by default in the options. I tried to program for auto trans but I can't tell what's going on, I open door, switch the key on/off then hold controll until it chirps 3 times and then I can't tell if I've got it on auto or not. At that point do I push the button twice and hold on the second/release?Posted from my iphone 4

When the remote start fails, what LED error code flashes out?  That will tell you if its' still in Manual Trans mode.Soldering is fun!