1999 Tahoe

Who put that scotch-lock and crimp-in connector in that picture, solder gentlemen, solder.lol

As far as the secrets and help that is given here taking away from customers, thats just plain ridiculous.  I know quite a bit about electronics, cars, and computers, and my install is still a nightmare.  There are not that many crazy people like myself and the other non-installers here that are either willing to attempt a full install or have the time to do it.  For me it's just for fun as a hobby to see if I can do it.  Ive spent a dozen plus hours and Im still not done. 

Steve

Passive arming while car is on  .... you can disconnect the ignition wire that the alarm requires to let it know that the car is on. Just make sure that the impact sensor is not set too sensitive otherwise you will get alot of false alarms.

Maybe I should recap as this may help in figuring out whats going on... [EDITED]

The Issues-

Remote start is still not working.  I am going to take this to an installer to figure out, as Ive tried everything.  Do resistances of .572 and .534 sound right?  And would I set my dip switches to 55.5 (avg) or 555 (avg)?  Engine cranks, but no gas.

Wires I have not hooked up- (Could any of these cause a problem with the above)

As always thanks!

Passive arming after car starts = no ignition wire hooked up.  Figured that out, me smart.

I will probably ordering a simpler passkey 2 bypass, as the one I have has the dip swithes and 12 wires.

VelocityMotors here I come, if I can figure out the money conversion :-)

Steve

Parking lights:  Yes, that's normal.  The remote start will do the exact same thing the switch on the dash would do--hence the instrument lamps coming on, as well as the "you left your lights on" warning chime.

Hoodpin and brakeswitch wires shouldn't be needed to get the thing working.  But I do like to have the brake hooked up, even while just troubleshooting, so I can instantly shut the system down if anything bad happens.

Which remote start accessory wire haven't you hooked up?  The pink and white main ignition wires need to both see power, or it's probably not going to start.  The orange wire supplies things like the climate controls, windshield wipers, and power windows---the car will start and run without power going to the orange wire.  There's also a brown wire in there that powers the radio; it's not needed for remote start.

If you suspect Passlock is your trouble, do this:

Temporarily disconnect any Passlock bypass device; make temporary connections to restore Passlock connections to factory status.

Insert ignition key, turn to Run, and leave it there.

Attempt to remote start the car.

If it starts and runs fine, you have Passlock issues, or else you simply haven't powered up both ignition wires.  (If the car won't even start with the key, make sure you have removed all remnants of that Triad thing.)

If it still won't start, your problem lies elsewhere.  I'm not sure what brand you're installing, but it must have a procedure to "learn" the car's tachometer rate.  Was the learn procedure successful?  If not, that warrants further investigation.

Another tip:  Most remote starts have a mode known as "pit stop" or "valet take-over."  The idea is this:  You drive to the corner store, and you want to leave the motor running.  You press the remote start button on your remote, wait a couple of seconds, and then remove the key and lock the car.  The motor stays running while you're in the store.  You can use this feature as a troubleshooting tool.  If "pit stop" works, it's likely that your main ignition wires are hooked up correctly----start investigating the starter wire  and Passlock connections.  If "pit stop" won't work, find out why before proceeding.