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2015-2018 Ford Transit Remote Start Pictorial


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jburbano 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 16, 2019 at 11:43 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jburbano
Well bummer. According to this http://www.idatalink.com/search/search?vehicle_make_id=12&vehicle_year_id=2017&vehicle_model_id=1030&vehicle_id=23786   
The ADS is not what I need. If you look at the features list, it will not arm/disarm the factory alarm and is missing some other required features. I am going to look at the other models.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,447
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 16, 2019 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
If your Transit does not have the PATS system, does it have the Ford Factory Alarm system? The one in this Pictorial had neither. ( The Panic button on the Factory Key FOB is not indicative of an alarm system.)
The list of supported features shown on that ADS comparison page could be a little misleading. The complete system units like the HC series do support more features because they are shown in the install guide and are manual hardwire connections not listed with the ADS AL-CA bypass only module install guide.
There is another way to monitor the door triggers without an ADS AL-CA or the diodes and resistor circuits previously mentioned. For a mere $22 you can get an Omega AU-NCT module from eBay. Here is a link to the install guide : https://www.wiresheet.com/v3/install_guides/Accessories/AU-NCT.pdf
Soldering is fun!
jburbano 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 16, 2019 at 3:28 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jburbano
Well that is a good question. I have been trying to figure that out. As near as I can tell no. My test was to use the factory keyfob to lock the van and then open the door through the inside handle. On other vehicles, that was a sure way to set off the factory alarm. On this one, nothing.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,447
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 16, 2019 at 3:46 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Yep, good chance you don't have the Factory Alarm. You can try setting the alarm a couple of different ways. Hit Lock twice on the FOB with all the doors closed, then wait a few minutes, then open a door from the inside.   You could hit the inner door lock button while the door is open, then close the door, wait a few minutes. Then open a door with the inner handle.
Soldering is fun!
jburbano 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 16, 2019 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jburbano
Well I am close to getting the remote start working w/o the bypass. Unfortunately, it is doing some odd stuff like starting and then turning off after 2-3 seconds. It will do this 3 times before failing and giving an error. It's as if the remote start can't tell the engine started ok. I have determined that I do have one touch start in the van. Since I have no tach wire, I set it for voltage sense start. The one wire I have not been able to determine how to properly connect is the keysense wire. Based on the original post, I thought it was not required. Any thoughts?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,447
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 17, 2019 at 2:13 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Some Ford's delay alternator output for a bit after engine start up and this causes a R/S's Voltage or Tachless monitoring to be unreliable. If your R/S system has a Hybrid or Fixed Crank setting, that would be the way to go. That's what I used on the Viper 4115 system in this Pictorial as mentioned in the R/S programming changes listed in the post.
For most Fords, Keysense is not required. I did not power this wire and no issues were encountered. Test the Keysense wire with the ignition key. It should be a (+) signal. If that is the case, you can use the R/S's unused IGN2 (+) output to power the wire during a R/S to see if that makes any difference.
Soldering is fun!
jburbano 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 20, 2019 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jburbano
Well most of my trouble turned out to be the old, but unused, Zenesis alarm/start. Zenesis is junk. Swapping it for a Crimestopper got me working. I did end up ordering and using the Omega AU-NCT. That was a great suggestion!! The only bump was that the right sliding door is different then all of the other doors. It grounds when open which is the opposite of all other doors. Thanks Ford! A couple of diodes solved that problem. Doing this w/o a bypass requires a LOT of hard wiring and time, but it was a good learning experience. Since the BCM re-uses the same wire colors, it is even more difficult. I am not sure I could have figured it out w/o the full Ford wiring manual. That allowed me to distinguish wires by color and gauge. Since both of the bypasses I looked at required about half of this hard wiring anyway, I am not sure what the best choice is. It seems crazy that existing bypasses cant't 'bypass' the need for parking light and lock hard wires. Those do go to the BCM afterall.
mustyk@att.net 
Copper - Posts: 131
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 25, 2009
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 21, 2019 at 6:19 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mustyk@att.net
TO: jburbano
If you look in the downloads section I sent in ALL the wiring diagram/colors necessary to do the transit Van. It even includes the AU-NCT wiring note that the Sliding door is negative triggered and the "Swing" door is -(N.C.). I tried to send it in MY format but this is how it came thru (see below). If you want a more readable version you can go to the xdowmload section and I beleive its in the misc section.
FULL SIZE VAN
12volts
YELLOW/RED (8ga)     +      @BCM (large 2 pin conn )
Ignition 1
BN/YE     +     @BCM Blue 76 conn pin 76 or ign harness
Starter 1
(not for starter kill)     BU/WH     +     @BCM Blue76 conn pin 71 or ign harness
Starter 1
(for starter kill)     BU/WH     +     In harness to LT of column (thickest of the 3)
Accessory 1
VT/GN     +     @BCM Blue 76 conn pin 75 or ign harness
Keysense     BU/GY     +      ignition harness
BCM IS LOCATED LH SIDE OF DASH
Motor-Lock all
     VT/GN          Pin 18 @BCM BROWN 46 pin conn
Motor-Unlock Driver
     BU/BN          Pin 39 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn
Motor-Unlock All
     BU/GN          Pin 45 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn
Power Lock
GY/YE      -      Pin 25 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
Power Unlock
VT/GY      -      Pin 56 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
LF Parking Light +
GN/OR*
GN/RD**      +      Pin 14 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn
RF Parking Light +
BN/YE     +     Pin 66 @BCM Brown 76 pin conn
LR Parking Light +
VT/GN     +     Pin 15 @BCM Brown46 pin conn
RR Parking Light +
WH/OR     +     Pin 67 @BCM Brown 76 pin conn
SJB: SMART JUNCTION BOX IS LOCATED ABOVE DRVRS LT FOOT      *2015 & 2018   **2016-2017
TX     YE/OR     data      PATS con pin3
RX     VT/GY     data      PATS con pin4
IGNITION     YE/VT     +     PATS con pin1
GROUND          -     PATS con pin2
LF Door Trigger
GN/VT     Open/N.C.     Pin 44 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
RF Door Trigger
WH     Open/N.C.     Pin 34 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
Left Side Cargo Door     GN     Open/N.C.     Pin 35 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
Right Side Cargo Door     YE^^     Open/N.C.^     Pin 51 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
Hood Pin
WH/BN     Open/N.C.     Pin 40 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
Rear Cargo Door
BN/VT     Open/N.C.     Pin 50 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
     ^for swing door    ^^(-)for slider door
Factory Alarm Disarm
Disarms with factory remote unlock
Reverse Light
GN/BN     +     Pin 11 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn
Brake Wire
VT/WH     +     @ Switch or Pin58 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn
Front Dome Lights     YE/GY     -      Pin 2 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn
Rear Dome Lights     WH/BU     -      Pin 1 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn
Horn Trigger
BU/WH      -      Pin 17 @BCM BLUE 76 pin conn
Interface Module:     
Immobilizer Bypass      Combo-Unit     
Part #: OL-MDB-ALL with TB-FM3 firmware
Alternate Part1 #: PASS-4
Alternate Part2 #: EVO-ALL 71.00
Notes:   Accessories Needed: Quad diodes kit for Parking lights. Dual Reverse diodes for Dome Lights. Note# 243 for normally closed door trigger circuit(10k ohm resistors)
AU-NCT needed for Door triggers
TO: jburbano
thetopinstaller
ace_boy2099 
Copper - Posts: 80
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2010
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: December 20, 2020 at 6:05 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote ace_boy2099
I noticed the O.P. said the pictorial was done on a 250 cargo van, are the wire colors and such the same for the 150 passenger Vans too? I may be getting a 17 transit 150soon and am contemplating a r/s and or alarm in it.
I know in the plans are trailer hitch and 7-way witing (eTrailer), cruise control (rostra 250-9636), and auto lights (directed 545t). For the cruise and auto lights I'll have to figure out the wiring.
O.P. thanks for the write up, I'll have to look up that video for the dash panels.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,447
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 22, 2020 at 6:48 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
From all of the wire list sources, it appears they all have only one group for the full size Transit. From that I would think that the 150, 250 and the 350 are all the same with some vehicles not equipped with the transponder based immobilizer system and the door pin differences. Hopefully Mustyk will provide additional info from all his experience. Good luck with your new van!
Soldering is fun!
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