2015-2018 Ford Transit Remote Start Pictorial

Well bummer. According to this http://www.idatalink.com/search/search?vehicle_make_id=12&vehicle_year_id=2017&vehicle_model_id=1030&vehicle_id=23786    The ADS is not what I need. If you look at the features list, it will not arm/disarm the factory alarm and is missing some other required features. I am going to look at the other models.

If your Transit does not have the PATS system, does it have the Ford Factory Alarm system? The one in this Pictorial had neither. ( The Panic button on the Factory Key FOB is not indicative of an alarm system.) The list of supported features shown on that ADS comparison page could be a little misleading. The complete system units like the HC series do support more features because they are shown in the install guide and are manual hardwire connections not listed with the ADS AL-CA bypass only module install guide. There is another way to monitor the door triggers without an ADS AL-CA or the diodes and resistor circuits previously mentioned. For a mere $22 you can get an Omega AU-NCT module from eBay. Here is a link to the install guide : https://www.wiresheet.com/v3/install_guides/Accessories/AU-NCT.pdfSoldering is fun!

Well that is a good question. I have been trying to figure that out. As near as I can tell no. My test was to use the factory keyfob to lock the van and then open the door through the inside handle. On other vehicles, that was a sure way to set off the factory alarm. On this one, nothing.

Yep, good chance you don't have the Factory Alarm. You can try setting the alarm a couple of different ways. Hit Lock twice on the FOB with all the doors closed, then wait a few minutes, then open a door from the inside.   You could hit the inner door lock button while the door is open, then close the door, wait a few minutes. Then open a door with the inner handle.Soldering is fun!

Well I am close to getting the remote start working w/o the bypass. Unfortunately, it is doing some odd stuff like starting and then turning off after 2-3 seconds. It will do this 3 times before failing and giving an error. It's as if the remote start can't tell the engine started ok. I have determined that I do have one touch start in the van. Since I have no tach wire, I set it for voltage sense start. The one wire I have not been able to determine how to properly connect is the keysense wire. Based on the original post, I thought it was not required. Any thoughts?

Some Ford's delay alternator output for a bit after engine start up and this causes a R/S's Voltage or Tachless monitoring to be unreliable. If your R/S system has a Hybrid or Fixed Crank setting, that would be the way to go. That's what I used on the Viper 4115 system in this Pictorial as mentioned in the R/S programming changes listed in the post. For most Fords, Keysense is not required. I did not power this wire and no issues were encountered. Test the Keysense wire with the ignition key. It should be a (+) signal. If that is the case, you can use the R/S's unused IGN2 (+) output to power the wire during a R/S to see if that makes any difference.Soldering is fun!

Well most of my trouble turned out to be the old, but unused, Zenesis alarm/start. Zenesis is junk. Swapping it for a Crimestopper got me working. I did end up ordering and using the Omega AU-NCT. That was a great suggestion!! The only bump was that the right sliding door is different then all of the other doors. It grounds when open which is the opposite of all other doors. Thanks Ford! A couple of diodes solved that problem. Doing this w/o a bypass requires a LOT of hard wiring and time, but it was a good learning experience. Since the BCM re-uses the same wire colors, it is even more difficult. I am not sure I could have figured it out w/o the full Ford wiring manual. That allowed me to distinguish wires by color and gauge. Since both of the bypasses I looked at required about half of this hard wiring anyway, I am not sure what the best choice is. It seems crazy that existing bypasses cant't 'bypass' the need for parking light and lock hard wires. Those do go to the BCM afterall.

TO: jburbano If you look in the downloads section I sent in ALL the wiring diagram/colors necessary to do the transit Van. It even includes the AU-NCT wiring note that the Sliding door is negative triggered and the "Swing" door is -(N.C.). I tried to send it in MY format but this is how it came thru (see below). If you want a more readable version you can go to the xdowmload section and I beleive its in the misc section. FULL SIZE VAN 12volts YELLOW/RED (8ga)     +      @BCM (large 2 pin conn ) Ignition 1 BN/YE     +     @BCM Blue 76 conn pin 76 or ign harness Starter 1 (not for starter kill)     BU/WH     +     @BCM Blue76 conn pin 71 or ign harness Starter 1 (for starter kill)     BU/WH     +     In harness to LT of column (thickest of the 3) Accessory 1 VT/GN     +     @BCM Blue 76 conn pin 75 or ign harness Keysense     BU/GY     +      ignition harness BCM IS LOCATED LH SIDE OF DASH Motor-Lock all      VT/GN          Pin 18 @BCM BROWN 46 pin conn Motor-Unlock Driver      BU/BN          Pin 39 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn Motor-Unlock All      BU/GN          Pin 45 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn Power Lock GY/YE      -      Pin 25 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn Power Unlock VT/GY      -      Pin 56 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn LF Parking Light + GN/OR* GN/RD**      +      Pin 14 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn RF Parking Light + BN/YE     +     Pin 66 @BCM Brown 76 pin conn LR Parking Light + VT/GN     +     Pin 15 @BCM Brown46 pin conn RR Parking Light + WH/OR     +     Pin 67 @BCM Brown 76 pin conn SJB: SMART JUNCTION BOX IS LOCATED ABOVE DRVRS LT FOOT      *2015 & 2018   **2016-2017 TX     YE/OR     data      PATS con pin3 RX     VT/GY     data      PATS con pin4 IGNITION     YE/VT     +     PATS con pin1 GROUND          -     PATS con pin2 LF Door Trigger GN/VT     Open/N.C.     Pin 44 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn RF Door Trigger WH     Open/N.C.     Pin 34 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn Left Side Cargo Door     GN     Open/N.C.     Pin 35 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn Right Side Cargo Door     YE^^     Open/N.C.^     Pin 51 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn Hood Pin WH/BN     Open/N.C.     Pin 40 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn Rear Cargo Door BN/VT     Open/N.C.     Pin 50 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn      ^for swing door    ^^(-)for slider door Factory Alarm Disarm Disarms with factory remote unlock Reverse Light GN/BN     +     Pin 11 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn Brake Wire VT/WH     +     @ Switch or Pin58 @BCM BROWN 76 pin conn Front Dome Lights     YE/GY     -      Pin 2 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn Rear Dome Lights     WH/BU     -      Pin 1 @BCM Brown 46 pin conn Horn Trigger BU/WH      -      Pin 17 @BCM BLUE 76 pin conn Interface Module:      Immobilizer Bypass      Combo-Unit      Part #: OL-MDB-ALL with TB-FM3 firmware Alternate Part1 #: PASS-4 Alternate Part2 #: EVO-ALL 71.00 Notes:   Accessories Needed: Quad diodes kit for Parking lights. Dual Reverse diodes for Dome Lights. Note# 243 for normally closed door trigger circuit(10k ohm resistors) AU-NCT needed for Door triggers TO: jburbanothetopinstaller

I noticed the O.P. said the pictorial was done on a 250 cargo van, are the wire colors and such the same for the 150 passenger Vans too? I may be getting a 17 transit 150soon and am contemplating a r/s and or alarm in it. I know in the plans are trailer hitch and 7-way witing (eTrailer), cruise control (rostra 250-9636), and auto lights (directed 545t). For the cruise and auto lights I'll have to figure out the wiring. O.P. thanks for the write up, I'll have to look up that video for the dash panels.

From all of the wire list sources, it appears they all have only one group for the full size Transit. From that I would think that the 150, 250 and the 350 are all the same with some vehicles not equipped with the transponder based immobilizer system and the door pin differences. Hopefully Mustyk will provide additional info from all his experience. Good luck with your new van!Soldering is fun!