Factory Central Locking Motors At Rest, Toad RK30, 1998 Mitsubishi L300

Thanks for that. Both legs rest at ground.When I cut one of the blue wires to the actuators the whole switch stops working.Does that mean they are a negative trigger? If, as I suspect they are negative trigger,and if,as I also suspect that the output from the Keyless entry module is positive trigger I will need six relays to make this work? The first two,to change polarity of the keyless module output, and the second four as shown on the 4 Wire Reversal Relay Wiring Diagram or do I just use diagram D? I am so confused,now.Maybe the five wire alternating 12v Positive is the one as I intend to keep the existing switch?(I'd still need four relays) YOUR HELP IS MOST DEFINITELY REQUIRED... Shaun

I didn't mean to cut one of the wires (at least not yet). I meant that the switch probably does this for you. Probe the actuator wires with your meter set to read DC voltage. Press and hold the lock switch while watching the display on your meter. It should read either +12 volts or -12 volts. (Once you see the reading you can release the switch.) If it read +12 volts, the wire with the red probe needs to see 12 volts on lock. If it read -12 volts, the opposite is true. Unlock the door. Now, cut whichever actuator wire showed +12 volts on lock. Feed +12 volts directly to the actuator side of this wire (not the side that leads back to the switch). It should have locked. If it did, you can do the same for unlock (cut the other wire and feed +12 volts directly to the actuator side). Assuming this worked, continue with the type D reverse polarity diagram. Just to be clear, the keyless entry module you refer to is what you are trying to add, correct? And it has a positive output? If yes to both, continue with the above advice.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

In reply to your final question,it is a Keyless entry module that I am trying to add.And it does have a positive output. So today,I followed your advice given above, and I'm pleased and relieved to report that the remote keyless entry sprung to life.It locked and unlocked. There are two things,here though. 1)The switch on the dash is no longer operative. Is this what you would have expected? 2)The locking and unlocking are weaker than when wired directly through the switch.Is this normal and can I improve it?Shaun

I should have been more specific. The switch side of the wires you cut should go to the same terminal as the keyless entry outputs (where it says "from switch"). Did you ground the wires for the relays yourself, or did you use the wires from the switch for ground? Are the wires you used for your relays smaller than the wires to the factory switch?My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

.The two wires on the relay marked +ve from switch I took to mean the trigger wires from the module.,so the two cut wires from the switch are not currently connected to anything. I grounded the relays separately from the factory switch connections. The wires used for the relays are the next size up from the wires to the factory switch,especially the +ve which may even be two sizes up.Neither the positive or ground have been connected at the switch terminals.Shaun

You can connect your keyless entry outputs with the switch outputs on the same relay terminals. That way the switch will work in conjunction to your keyless. You can always add a jumper from your relay grounds to the ground from the switch and see if that helps at all (since you say it seems weak).My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I have connected the previously cut wires from the switch to the trigger wires from the keyless entry module.(I didn't know that I could have two trigger wires on a relay.)This means that the door locks connected via switch work better than ever. However,when I press the remote for the keyless entry a fuse blows on the wire to the module,suggesting to me that I am not using the correct wires yet. You Wrote " Unlock the door. Now, cut whichever actuator wire showed +12 volts on lock. Feed +12 volts directly to the actuator side of this wire (not the side that leads back to the switch). It should have locked. If it did, you can do the same for unlock (cut the other wire and feed +12 volts directly to the actuator side)." Nothing happened when I did this..Shaun

Yes, you're right. It would blow a fuse. I should have drawn it out so I could trace it. The wires from the factory switch that trigger the relays rest at ground. Since the actuators are now grounded through the relays and not the switch, you can cut and isolate the ground wire from the factory switch. Once you do that, everything should work fine.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I will try that tomorrow and report back. Thank youShaun

Well,an interesting development with a strange outcome. I removed the ground wire from the factory switch.This no longer shorted out and made the fuse blow. However, with a new fuse in place the keyless module operates the two relays and sends 12v to the actuator wires previously cut at the switch. But the actuators do not move. There are wires coming from the module which should be connected to either ground or +ve depending on certain conditions. The actuators move when the factory switch is pressed in either direction (lock or unlock);    If i forward a copy of the keyless entry wiring diagram would that help? I didn't think it would be this complex.... Thank you for your continued help.....Shaun