2010 Honda Civic LX, CM7200 Remote Start Install

so I hooked everything up, got the antenna wired and wanted to test it out before I start tucking wires away and buttoning up all the removed interior panels, but for some reason I can't get the Blade-AL programmed to the car. I tried the sequence in the guide - ignition on and wait for red LED to turn to blue, however it never turned to blue. I tried multiple times with the same result. I doubled checked, and I have the Blade-AL flashed with firmware COM-BLADE-AL(DL)-HA2 (1.6).The CM7200 is flashed with CompuStar Firmware: CM7200 V3.57. To confirm my setup, all the wires are connected per the above: CN1 1 - Red - Spliced with #3 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness 2 - Green/White - no connected to anything 3 - Red/White - Spliced with #1 and spliced into white wire at ignition harness 4 - White - Spliced to orange wire on ignition harness 5 - Blue - Spliced to red wire at ignition harness 6 - Yellow - Spliced into yellow wire at ignition harness 7 - Green - Spliced into blue wire at ignition harness 8 - Black - Ring terminal crimped onto CN1 wire and bolted to ground location under the dash CN3 Not plugged in CN4 Connected per the Blade-AL(DL)-HA2-EN Install Guide CN5 4 - Spliced into brake switch light green wire 16 - I did not wire this to anything (yet) 17 - Spliced into gray wire at headlight switch connector 18 - spliced into yellow wire at fuel injector 1 (first injector from right to left, back of engine) CN6 Not plugged in CN7 Not plugged in CN8 Not plugged in CN9 Plugged into antenna mounted to windshield CN10 Not plugged in CN11 Not plugged in CN12 Not plugged in CN13 Not plugged in CN14 Not plugged in Green/White loop inside CM7200 cover is cut (vehicle is automatic) Any ideas why it's not communicating (install guide said solid red means it's waiting for vehicle information)? I read some thread for a 2008 civic that when the firmware was updated the wiring configuration was changed, could that be the case? How would I roll back the CM7200 firmware, or the Blade-AL firmware?

Verify that the CN4 Blade White/Black and White/Red wires are on the correct sides of the cut wire. Do a Blade Factory Reset as per Page 11 of the guide and then try vehicle programming.Soldering is fun!

10-4, I'll double check when I get home from work, will I have to re-flash the Blade after the factory reset? Also while looking through the install guide, I noticed the following: It says on page 3: Ground When Running from Remote Starter must be provided BEFORE Ignition.Failure to comply may result in immobilizer bypass malfunction during remote start. and also on the type 3 wiring diagram: STANDARD 12 VOLT, GROUND, AND IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTIONS ARE STILL REQUIRED FROM THE REMOTE STARTER. I'm assuming all those are taken care of from CN1?

Yes, the FT7200-s does provide GWR to the Blade cartridge with the correct timing. Yes again, the thick ignition wire connections are needed and your listed connections are correct. Just make sure that the Selectable Ignition wire jumper is set to ACC. Factory Default is IGN. No, you won't have to re-flash the Blade-AL after a Factory Reset. I always do a Factory Reset after the firmware flash and prior to actual vehicle programming.Soldering is fun!

cut doens't matter, as that just keeps the keyless active during remote start.. what matter is where the you have the pink ignition wire. you must have it on the vehicle side. My money is it's on the key side... or you have the wrong SWC wire, count the pins, don't go by color.

kreg357 wrote: Verify that the CN4 Blade White/Black and White/Red wires are on the correct sides of the cut wire. Do a Blade Factory Reset as per Page 11 of the guide and then try vehicle programming.

silvercivicsir wrote: cut doens't matter, as that just keeps the keyless active during remote start.. what matter is where the you have the pink ignition wire. you must have it on the vehicle side. My money is it's on the key side... or you have the wrong SWC wire, count the pins, don't go by color.

so the issue was the wires for the Honda bypass connector. There are tiny little numbers that are numbered reverse of what the Blade-AL says. So on the Honda connector the pins are numbered from left to right - 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 vs the Blade-AL manual being 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. I uncrimped the cn4 harness to the previous wires and spliced them into the correct 2, 3, 4 wires and everything works perfectly. Thanks a ton Kreg357 and Silvercivicsir, without this forum I'd be knee deep in a river of doodie. I appreciate everything.