Which Remote Starter Kit For 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe?

Hello, I have a second hand 2003 TAHOE LT on which I'd love to install a remote start. I live in a tropical island in the pacific, and having the A/C on before entering the car would be so nice. No need for new remotes or an alarm, I am just after a remote start kit, using the OEM FOB. Pit stop function also would be great ! I have been searching and reading, and understand there is either a R/S unit with external PASSLOCK2 bypass module, with either D2D or W2W between these 2 units. Or, I have seen all in one units, and this seems sexier to me, reducing the number of "boxes" and wiring needed, as of : => FORTIN EVO-ONE + flashlink (to flash correct firmware and program unit) or => compustar.idatalink FT-DC3-HC + ADS-USB (to flash correct firmware and program) From all of your knowledge, which of these two options would you recommend ? best features ? better reliability ? ease of install/program ? I understand that fortin flashlink will use a windows software, "flashlink manager" to do the firmware flash and module settings. On another hand, idatalink ADS-USB and weblink updater requires to register an account online to be able to do this throuhg a browser plugin... i am a bit afraid that being outside of the US, I could not access it and be stranded with a "blank" module. Anyhow, thank you very much for your help and feedback on these matter. If anyone has done a similar install on this vehicle, I would be very grateful for a pointer to the install thread/pictorial Thank you very much in advance Best regards Erik.

Hi Eric, Here is a link to a Pictorial on the sister vehicle :   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133000 Personally, on a 17 year old vehicle, I would be recommending a R/S system with quality 3 or 4 button remotes. While it is possible to install a system with no remotes that would start the Tahoe with 3 lock commands in a row the cost savings wouldn't be much. All that being said, with your request for a one box system, how about a Compustar CS925-S with a Blade AL bypass cartridge. It would give you longer range than your factory FOBs and still allow for a 3X Lock start-up from the factory FOBs if you wished. The trick would be to find an eBay seller that would ship to New Caledonia and flash the Blade-AL with the correct firmware. That way you wouldn't need the ADS USB cable nor worry about Flash access. While a bit expensive at $140, I did see a seller that does provide the free firmware flash. The Blade AL would handle the Passloc2, Alarm and Locks making the install pretty easy. I would go with a hardwire Tach signal directly to the instrument cluster. If you wanted a smaller remote, the CS915-S is a similar system with a one button remote that can do Lock, Unlock and remote start. KregSoldering is fun!

Hi Kreg, thank you very much for your kind answers. I have seen indeed this very informative pictorial you quoted, but was looking for feedback on the "new" all in one items now. Thanks also for the additional tip about the tach. Yes, I see your point about a system with remotes included for an old vehicle. There is just a few things I would like to clarify in this case please : => would a CS925-S with Blade AL still allow with its remotes to have "Driver 1" and "Driver 2" memories recall according to which remote is used ? => In this CS925-S+Blade AL, it is just the Blade AL cartridge which needs to be flashed by the seller for a 2003 chevy tahoe, right ? And then nothing else is required to be flashed on install ? Indeed, finding a dealer that would flash for my vehicle AND ship to New Caledonia will be kind of "fun" ! => Compustar vs Compustar, out of curiosity, apart from the included remotes, why do you recommend the CS925-S rather than the DC3 ?    I don't understand why they have so many "units" in their range, which seems to be doing the same thing, but I am not enough deep into it to see the difference. I know you know better :o)    Also, RS1B-DC3 as a bundle has a remote included just in case, or the DC3 can be later on upgraded to RF remote with an aditionnal RF kit if needed.    Is there any "cons" you see about the DC3 unit ? => on a side note, what would you think about the Fortin EVO-ONE compared to the Compustar modules ? => another embarrassing thing is our customs laws when importing RF stuffs in my country. Everything needs to be approved by the radiofrequency authority and usually must bear CE marking... so I would fear to have the kit stuck at the boarder because of the RF part of it !?! => the car is indeed 17 years old, but the BCM is brand new, the 2 OEM FOBS have been just replaced and brand new, so should be working fine for a while, except maybe if the driver door module fails, as I believe it is taking care of the keyless entry system... but then I am not sure that the CS925-S will still be able to trigger the locks via OBD if this DDM module is dead too ? I don't know... Anyhow, thank you again, and in advance, for your helpful and knowledgeable answers to my wonders Sincerely Erik

Hi Erik, My initial suggestion was based on cost, one module and functionality. The newer DC3 and EVO-ONE systems are more expensive and require a firmware flash aside from a remote/antenna kit if you wanted the extra range an aftermarket remote provides. I'm a K.I.S.S. kind of guy.    A few answers : => would a CS925-S with Blade AL still allow with its remotes to have "Driver 1" and "Driver 2" memories recall according to which remote is used ? While the factory remotes will still function normally, the aftermarket remotes will not provide the Driver 1 / 2 personalization. The only bypass module that will provide that feature is the Fortin INT-SL+ with some extra wiring and remote button use. If this feature is important you would have to use the INT-SL+ bypass module, which would end the "all-in-one" system. => Compustar vs Compustar, out of curiosity, apart from the included remotes, why do you recommend the CS925-S rather than the DC3 ? Basically back to price and K.I.S.S. You would need the ADS USB cable and flash WEB site access to use the DC3. A remote/antenna kit would be optional and extra cost. Finding a seller to flash the module prior to shipment might be difficult. Getting 3X Lock R/S to work would require a relay and some extra wiring. => on a side note, what would you think about the Fortin EVO-ONE compared to the Compustar modules ? The EVO-ONE is a nice unit, similar to the DC3. It would require the Flashlink4 programmer and the antenna/remote kit, too. Same issue with 3X Lock R/S, a relay and extra wiring is needed. As for the remote transmitters being authorized for New Caledonia, that is something you would need to research prior to making any orders. Here is a link to our FCC WEB site :      https://www.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid Every remote will have an FCC ID number that you can lookup on the FCC site to learn about its frequency, etc. If New Caledonia has a similar agency, you should be able to pre-determine the systems status in your country. Here is the info on the CS925-S remote : Cheers, KregSoldering is fun!

Hi Kreg, thank god I asked a question on this forum and you were here to share your valuable experience. Thank you Kreg ! I am with you, I like the K.I.S.S. philosophy, and the all in one concept was part of it in my mind, yet, your post above made me realize that, for my 2003 truck, the 3x lock idea to use the OEM FOB was not indeed a feature available on the DC3 or EVO-ONE... it seems to be ok for later trucks, 2007+, so you saved me quite a headache on this one !! and going this way would have forced me to by the additional RF kits for both of these units to be able to use remote start on this year truck (or use additionnal relay and wiring, which was not the plan) ! As to driver 1 and 2 memories, we will recall the settings through the push button on the door, it will be just fine ! So indeed, the CS925-S with blade AL will do remote start with bundled remotes, that will start and lock/unlock the car too, and the OEM FOB will be kept away safely. Now, I need to investigate the remote transmitter frequency authorization case for my country !! that's another story !!! Just one thing, I have found wiring guides and manuals for the evo-one and DC3, but the way the compustar web site is made, I can find the CS925-S product, but no way to download any wiring guide for my application/vehicle or user manual, as I have been able to find for the DC3 or EVO-ONE. The brain of this bundle seems to be the CM900. Do you know if there is any specific vehicle wiring guide for a 2003 TAHOE with this module ? Thank you again for your highly appreciated feedback Best regards Erik.

You can do a 3X Lock with the EVO-ONE and DC3 systems. They are looking for (-) Activation signal so a relay would be needed to change the Lock Motor   GRAY(+)   @ DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH BLACK 26 PIN CONN, PIN 21 signal to the (-) needed. This would involve running a wire into the drivers door. The CS925-S unit has a (+) Activation Input so it could be wired directly to the above mentioned Lock Motor wire. No relay needed. Some programming would be required to assign the number of lock pulses needed to trigger a R/S. As for Installation Manuals : Here is a link to the CS925-S ( CM900s) Install Guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1420 Here is a wire chart for your install : CM900-s           to     2003 Tahoe CN1 Pin 1 Red - Constant 12V ------------------------------------- Red +12V Constant Pin 2 Green/White - Programmable Output --------------- not used Pin 3 Red/White - Constant 12V ----------------------------- Red/Whire +12V Constant Pin 4 White - Accessory 12V positive (+) ------------------- See ACC relay diagram below Pin 5 Blue - Programmable Output set to IGN2 ---------- White Pin 6 Yellow - Starter 12V positive (+) ---------------------- Yellow Pin 7 Green - Ignition 12V positive (+) ---------------------- Pink Pin 8 Black - Ground negative (-) input --------------------- Chassis Ground CN3 Pin 1 Green/White - (fixed) Parking light 250mA negative (-) output ----------- Gray/Black in Brown BCM plug Pin 2 Blue/Lt. Green - [POC 2] Lock 250mA, 800mS (-) negative output ----- not used Pin 3 Blue - [POC 3] Unlock 250mA, 800mS (-) negative output ---------------- not used Pin 4 Black - [POC 4] Status/GWR 250mA latched negative (-) output -------- not used Pin 5 Orange - [POC 5] Factory Alarm Arm (FAA) (-) output -------------------- not used Pin 6 Orange/White - [POC 6] Factory Alarm Disarm (FAD) (-) output -------- not used Pin 7 White - [POC 7] Horn:250mA negative (-) output --------------------------- Black at Gray BCM Plug Pin 8 Gray/Black - Hood Pin negative (-) (default setting) input ----------------- to kit supplied hood pin Pin 9 Light Blue/White - Brake 12V positive (+) input ----------------------------- White at Brake pedal switch Pin 10 RED/White - Trigger start (-) input -------------------------------------------- not used Pin 11 RED - Positive (+) input --------------------------------------------------------- GRAY(+) @ DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH BLACK 26 PIN CONN, PIN 21 Pin 12 Yellow/Black - Engine sensing input (A/C) ----------------------------------- White @ Instrument Cluster plug Blade connector plug Pin 4 Orange J1850 Data --------------------------------- ODB2 Violet @ Pin 2 ACC relay diagram ( need two 30/40 Amp SPDT relays with 5 pin harness and 2 in-line fuse holders w/20 Amp fuses ) Soldering is fun!

Hi Kreg, or should I say Master Jedi Kreg !!! You're the king. Thank you very much for all these data Best regards Erik.

kreg357 wrote: You can do a 3X Lock with the EVO-ONE and DC3 systems. They are looking for (-) Activation signal so a relay would be needed to change the Lock Motor   GRAY(+)   @ DRIVER WINDOW SWITCH BLACK 26 PIN CONN, PIN 21 signal to the (-) needed. This would involve running a wire into the drivers door. The CS925-S unit has a (+) Activation Input so it could be wired directly to the above mentioned Lock Motor wire. No relay needed. Some programming would be required to assign the number of lock pulses needed to trigger a R/S.

Another way to grab the + lock wire without going into the door is to get it from the leg of the relay in the fuse box on the drivers side. I was able to trigger my polarity inverting relay from this relay without much effort to trigger the 3x lock in my DC3 brain on me 2002 Chevy Silverado. A few pics of where I grabbed the signal. Steve G

Wondering what is the reason for the relays for acc1-(ornge) and acc2-(brown) is it because the Amp draw is too high for the 30Amp accessorie wire coming out of the remote start. the diagram for those have 12v constant going to pin 87 on the relay And 12v load coming out of pin 30 on the relay The directions for the relay have it the other way around does it matter or is there a reason thanks. david.Zoomzoom

Not real sure the exact amp draw on the Orange and Brown accessory wires. They are 12 gauge so it could be up to 30 amps. The CM900 can only supply 4 ignition type outputs and you need one Starter and two Ignitions. That leaves only one Accessory type output. It wouldn't be a good idea to connect that one CM900 White ACC wire to both vehicle ACC wires. That would electrically combine both circuits and possibly cause many issues. Using the two relays keeps the ACC1 and ACC2 circuits isolated and powers both during a R/S just like a regular key start does. You could just power the Tahoes' Orange ACC1 wire and see if the heat A/C work during a R/S. The Brown ACC2 wire might just power unnecessary features. As for relay wiring and using Pin 30 as an output instead of an input, it mostly has to do with the fact that wired that way Pin 87a is only Hot while the truck is ON with the key. Wired the other way Pin 87a will have +12V on it any time the vehicle is OFF. Not a big issue if you de-pin of properly insulate that wire.Soldering is fun!