Prostart and ADS-ALCA Bypass, 2016 Kia Soul

The flashing Red LED during programming is a big issue and the one to correct first. You say you triple checked the wiring but that is typically where the errors are encountered. Two things to verify. First make sure the bypass modules CAN High and CAN Low wires are on the correct vehicle wires. Second, verify that the bypass wires connected to the cut Data IMMO vehicle wire are on the correct sides of that cut wire. It goes without saying that all these connections should be made with a quality solder connection. As for the Lock and Unlock functions... The bypass module will handle this for you. You have already hardwired the R/S's Lock and Unlock output wires to the bypass module. No direct connections from the R/S or bypass module are required to the vehicles Lock and Unlock wires. Once you get the bypass module successfully programmed to the car the locks should work. The chart on Page 2 of the Install Guide details all of the supported functions. After checking the wiring above, you should perform a Factory Reset on the ADS AL-CA as shown on the last page of the install guide, set the Installation Mode to W2W ( two blinls ), lock it in and then do the vehicle programming.Soldering is fun!

Also note that the Type 7 Install diagram is R/S generic. As such it might not show all necessary connections. One such connection is the R/S to Chassis Ground connection. This connection is very important and should be done as a soldered terminal lug to solid, unpainted, rust-free frame area.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for you reply i really appreciate your help need to give it try again.I got another question about the guide on ADS-ALCA, how about the dash dot is for 2 way wire and red should one way wire right? if my remote starter 2 way i should wire 2 way only? or both in W2W? Thanks

This is where we get into a big learning curve. OK, here goes... There are two basic modes that a bypass module can run in. We will call them D2D and W2W. With D2D there are 3 different communication types that run on that 4 pin Data harness. Each bypass module has their own protocol. Directed has DBI D2D. iDatalink has theirs ( ADS ) and Fortin has theirs ( Flashlink ). The discussion on this can run a few hours. Some early bypass modules and R/S systems couldn't do 2-way communication but most current ones can. iDatalink still supports and lists 1-way but I don't think that happens very much. The ADS AL-CA bypass module can be flashed to support ADS or DBI D2D protocols while DEI units like the DBall3 can only do DBI D2D. Fortin's EVO-ALL can do all three protocols. We could go on... Jumping to W2W. It's pretty straight forward. Each function that the bypass module performs has a gignal wire input to control it. So if the bypass module handles the Lock function, the R/S unit will control it with it's Lock output signal. That is what you did by going W2W and making all the necessary hardwired connections. In the Type 7 diagram you will see various wires in solid, dashed, Red or Black markings. A solid Red wire is considered 2-way when that signal is transmitted within the D2D harness but with W2W it is a signal supplied by the bypass module for use by the R/S unit. The Door Status is this type of signal and it's marked as an Input for the R/S and as an Output for the bypass module. Real easy to understand. If your R/S needs this signal you must hardwire it. Black solid wires must be hardwired in both W2W and D2D. Dashed Black wires are only run if not using D2D. In D2D modes they are handled by the 4 pin Data harness. Being as I don't have the Prostart R/S model number or access to their install guides, I do not know what D2D protocol they use. It could be DBI or ADS or selectable. Don't know but with W2W it doesn't matter because you are not using the D2D harness for Data and not setting the ADS AL-CA for D2D communication. I don't know if your Prostart unit is an alarm system or just a R/S w/keyless entry. If it's an alarm system then you should make the Door, Trunk and Hood Status connectionms. If it's just a R/S, then only the Hood Status is necessary but going but the chart on Page 2, the bypass module is unable to supply the Hood Status on a Soul. That signal will have to be from the kit supplied and installed hood pin. As I mentioned earlier, there is a big learning curve here. But with W2W it is straight forward. You want the R/S Lock function? Run that wire between the R/S and the bypass module. You want Unlock? Run the wire. You want Trunk pop? Run the wire. As mentioned, the Type 7 diagram is generic. It doesn't know what brand/model R/S you are using so some wires are not shown. You want the R/S to give horn confirmations, you must connect the R/S Horn output wire to the correct vehicle wire because the bypass module does not handle that function. Your R/S might not show a GWR output. GWR is what iDatalink calls that signal. Your R/S system might call that signal (-) Status Output or (-) 3rd Ignition. Either way, it's a necessary wire connection and must be made.Soldering is fun!

Hi! thanks for step by step explanation i learn a lot from here, well prostart R/S they have option in programming mode Mode 4, Function 4, Bypass- Option1 ADS (1-way D2D), Option2 Xpresskit (2-way D2D, Option3 Fortin (1-way D2D), right now they have factory default on Option 2, maybe i had to change option1 to ADS (1-way D2D)? Thanks

OK, you are wired up for W2W operation, you are not using the D2D cable, you set the ADS Al-CA Instalation Mode to "hardwired" ( two blinks ) and you want to set the Prostart R/S to ADS 1-way D2D operation? Sure, go ahead but it should have no affect on the installation. You're not running D2D.Soldering is fun!

Prostart is the same as an Autostart, so it will do DBI 2way, or 1 way ADS/Fortin. But as an FYI, Flash the ADS bypass module for DBi, and use the "ads 4 pin connect/ as its on the same trace as the red DBI plug)

Hi! Thanks for your help its working now my project. I found the problem can hi and can low was not the right wire, its starting smoothly unlock lock. I got little problem of my tach i dont know if i got the right wire was "green". Sometimes its shutdown the engine when you start and start again. I try to learn hope its helps. but right now working ok.