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2013 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation, Factory Amp

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Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2007
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 16, 2020 at 8:31 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nola111
Custom_Jim wrote:
No such thing as a stupid question. Yes the connectors got plugged back in as I used the 5 outputs of the amplifier (LF, RF, LR, RR, Sub) to a 4 channel amp and then also to a mono amplifier. The blue sheathed wire is a 9 conductor from Aamp of America and it might be called "Speedwire" and then I used a twisted pair of wires to come off of the factory sub wires. On the other end of the 9 conductor wire by the line level adaptors and the amplifiers I then also put on additional male and female bullets there to where come trade in time I can plug the proper wires together at the end of both the 9 conductors and then don't have to get back into where I originally made connections by the amplifier. The factory sub wires were just tapped into and the factory sub and how it was wired to the factory amp stayed the same. It seems to me also on that install the line level also generated a 12 volt turn on signal for the amplifier's.
Thanks again, Jim. Yes I do have have some speedwire ready to go for this install - I've also heard it referred to as "9-wire." Which leads me to my next question... is there a "12-wire"? I have 6 component speakers to go to, as opposed to 4. I suppose I'll just have to use 9-wire plus another 4 wires to handle the other 2 speakers - I'll probably tie it all together to create my own 12-wire.
Great thinking on also using the bullets on the amp side to make removal of the amp super-easy! I will definitely borrow that idea from you.
Copper - Posts: 210
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2003
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 16, 2020 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Custom_Jim
I've been installing car audio since the late 70's and through the years they slowly have been keeping to more of a standard color code with the aftermarket car audio wiring such as having the speaker wires as a green and then a green with black tracer, a gray and then a gray with a black tracer, a purple and then a purple with a black tracer, and finally a white and then a white with black tracer. Back then we we were only dealing with 4 speakers and now with the advent possibly having 6 or more speakers off of an amplifier, I don't think it's been addressed as to what additional colors would be used for something like a center channel, left front tweeter, right front tweeter, subwoofer, rear surrounds, and so on. I think it's going to be on the individual to make up there own color code system to achieve things.
If you need something like the 9 wire and then need an additional 4 wires, maybe do a separate 4 conductor with it also.
Sometimes too when I'm running multiple 4 conductors a little back on the outside sheathing wrap one band of tape on each end of the run then on a second run, put on two bands, 3 on a third and so on this way at the home run area I might remember or know by looking at the other end that the one particular 4 conductor goes to something like the front porch speakers in a home setup, a double banded wire for wires going to a set of garage speakers, and so on.
There are companies that make multiple wire setups but might only be available in 500 or 1000 foot reels and for the novice it's not something that would be bought and there would be a cheaper work around.
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Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2007
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 17, 2020 at 8:46 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nola111
Back to the discussion for the wiring of the factory amp. I'm now a bit confused. See the pinout diagram for both connectors coming directly from Honda:
2013 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation, Factory Amp - Page 2 -- posted image. As you can see, the Input connector (Connector B) has 4 pins for front tweeters (13,14,27 and 28). But the output connector (Connector A) has no outputs for the front tweeters. Any thoughts on why this is? I would understand it if the idea is that the Front outputs go to both the front door speakers and the front tweeters, and the front tweeters just have a high-pass crossover on them (which appears to be the case with the factory tweeters), but then, why are there front tweeter inputs at all?
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