2003 Acura CL, Finding Wires for Proper Function

I found the official wiring schematics from Honda and they have different wires listed for the ignition harness. https://cardiagn.com/body-electrical-99-03-tl/ My CL is the same as a 2003 TL. Same electrical, just a 2 door instead of 4. Wht/blk Accessory Wht 12v constant Blk/yel ig2 Yel ig2 blk/wht starter I'll spend some time verifying these wires, but I think with how uncommon this car is, the wiring diagrams on here might be wrong maybe? Is that possible?

OK I have verified my ignition harness. Yellow is ignition 2. OFF with no key, ON during ign1 and ign2 positions with key White/black is accessory. OFF with no key, ON during ACC position with key, OFF during ign2 so my ignition harness is set up like this. 1 RED/BLACK 12v constant (white) 2 PINK/BLACK key side of starter wire (blk/wht) 3 PINK/WHITE ignition 2 (12v at all key positions except OFF) 4 RED 12v constant (white) 5 VIOLET fusebox side of starter wire (blk/wht) 6 ORANGE accessory (wht/blk) 7 RED/WHITE 12v constant (white) 8 PINK ignition 1 (blk/yel) It didn't solve my problem. I still can't start the car with my key, only the remote start. Does anyone have info on how this "flex relay" triggers? I see it gives me 87a, 87, and 30. What would be the control signal? The way it is set up, in my head, doesn't make sense! 87a key side ignition 87 constant 12v 30 constant 12v I was able to set it up like this on another command start. It allowed for anti-grind. Can I not use the onboard relay for anti-grind? Am I better off starting a new topic?

I was able to remote start my car today. I did verify that I have the starter's key side and motor side set up properly. I am learning that the Viper instructions are a little misleading. I was lead to believe that I can set up anti-grind using the onboard flex relay, like I had done in the past with the 5701 and Python 5303. Apparently I could do that because it was an alarm/RS combo which had starter kill included. I will be installing a relay to set up anti-grind tonight. All that will be left is to set up the alarm disarm wire which I likely need a 4 button remote to set up the proper option, as it is set up to disarm with unlock only, and not with remote start. :( (Menu 2, option 1 default: with unlock)

I think you are confusing the starter output with the flex relay wiring from looking at your connections. The 2 are not internally connected to each other. They are separate outputs. The flex relay is like an external add-on relay but built in for ease of use. 85 and 86 are internal to the brain and 87, 87a and 30 are external to the brain. It's default behavior is as an Ignition function to use as a 2nd ignition output. Whatever you connect RED/WHITE (30) to will determine what is outputted on the PINK/WHITE (87) wire during remote start. It's either ground or 12v constant. You have constant on the red/white which will provide 12v on the pink/white which by default should connect to 2nd ignition of the vehicle. Now the flex relay can optionally be used as an accessory or in your case a starter output but only if you can change it in the settings from the default of ignition 2 output. If you can't access programming them you should either use only the starter output and an add-on external relay for anti-grind or get a remote that allows you to change the flex relay settings and use that. I think you would be best though to use the flex output for Ignition 2 as it is currently setup that way. Also rejoining the cut starter wire and attaching the starter output to it by itself to see if that gets you back to starting with the key. P.S. I just noticed in my email that you responded while I was working on typing this out. Ha. Oh well I'm posting anyway since I typed it out already. Glad you are getting there.Steve G

So did you remove the PINK/BLACK wire from the key side of the Starter wire?Steve G

I was indeed confused on the flex relay. I removed PINK/BLK from the key side of the starter. If I join that and VIOLET together, I am able to remote start the car, and I am able to start it with the key. I decided to try and install an anti-grind relay. I bought a simple relay and hooked it up like this diagram: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/A1E_cut_antigrind.bmp I am wondering if the PINK/BLK is needed anymore. I have it hooked up so PINK/BLK and the key-side ignition wire are joined together, then connected to terminal 87a. I don't think this is right, but some clarification would be neat. Right now, when I have my key at IGN, the car tries to start without pushing the key to the START position. EDIT: I was able to fix this... PINK/BLK is no longer hooked up to the brain. Antigrind works. Car starts. Yay. All that is left is rear defog and the alarm disarm wire... wrap it all up and make it look pretty.

I have now verified that no wires under the passenger seat will disarm the alarm by grounding I am still trying to track down the alarm disarm wire. I have already ran wires into the driver's door, so I'll be testing wires there again...

Alright. I'm done this install, or as done as it is going to get. Things I have learned: Alarm disarm wire is in the door, at the window switch. You have to tap in at the window switch. Not 12 inches away from it, not 2 inches away... it has to be directly at the switch, basically attached to the pin of the blue wire. When grounded, the alarm disarms, but doors stay locked. OEM FOB will not unlock/lock doors during the remote start. This is by design, by Acura. When the car is running, Acura decided it is best that the FOB is disabled. Not ideal, but whatever. The wiring for ignition is wrong in the wiring diagrams. Correct wiring is: WHITE - 12V constant BLK/WHT - starter wire BLK/YEL - Ignition 1 YELLOW - Ignition 2 WHT/BLK - accessory Single button remotes suck. I would never recommend buying the 4816V for this reason alone. You will likely end up wiring lock/unlock anyways. I likely will someday soon.

I am wanting to wire up the viper door lock/unlock outputs the alarm puts out a 200ma ground signal to trigger the locks. I have wired up power locks before using aftermarket actuators and relays. I am wondering if a relay is still required in this case. I have isolated the oem lock/unlock wires which are activated by applying a ground to the wire. Would I still need a relay in this case? Would I just measure the voltage on the positive wire to determine if I can do this? I'm really hoping I can just tie the lock/unlock wires from the viper alarm to the driver's lock/unlock switch on the door.