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Sierra Ext Cab


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rvp420 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 16, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2003 at 2:46 PM / IP Logged  
What is the best way to get mad bass without taking out the back seat. Any suggestions
TAudio 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2003 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  

 Can't remember how much room is under the seats in one of those, but the ususal method is to install 10" subs in a custom box underneath them.  I've seen some guys who have hard tops for their beds weld the bed to the cab so it won't twist, make a cutout between the bed and cab and install subs firing into the back of the seats (expenive and requires a lot of time and experience but sounds awesome because you can accomodate up to 18" subs this way).  One guy I saw who did this had 3 Kicker 15" solos and my ears rang for about an hour after hearing it from inside the truck.  If  the front of the seats comes down all the way to the floor then take the seats out and see how much space there is.  Some trucks have massive ammounts of space under the rear seats and nobody realizes it while other lack enough room for anything but a couple of 8" subs.  If there is a lot of room then I would reccomend four 10" or three 12" subs that can each handle 300 or more watts RMS (Alpine type R, mtx 8000 series, coustic carbon fiber series, ect) in sealed boxes and amps that match their power rating (hey you said Mad Bass right?).  Pricey but really loud.

If quiters never win, and winners never quit, who the heck came up with the idea that you should quit while your ahead?
1998chevy1500 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2003 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
i don't know what year you have but in my 1998 chevy ext cab i lifted the rear seats up 3" to fit my box(custom built 3/4"MDF home built) with 2 Rockford Power HX2 10" and a MTX 81000D the bass is loud in the truck but non existant outside. blew one of the subs(bad when i bought it used) planning to upgrade to 2 Kicker 10" L7's on the amp.
on the subject of the seat lift it took me approx 8+ hours to build plus planning. if this is the year of truck you have i can elaborate on how i did it.
as for "mad bass" in a truck i have tryed many a system with little results. got a friend with one Rockford Punch Hx2 in an old truck box with a Proile amp that is comparable to my system for bass that is in a car. limited bass in a pickup is just someting i have come to accept.
if you have any questions email me at salers@3rivers.net as i do not check the forums often.
Conrad Jacobsen
rvp420 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 16, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2003 at 8:36 PM / IP Logged  
My truck is 96. Do you guys have any idea how much it would be to cut out the back of the cab and weld in the bed? Do they sell kits for lifting the seat or do you just drill out holes and bolt it up?
rvp420 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 16, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2003 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged  
oh and I've seen trucks with the custom box under the seat. I can fit two 10's but i've heard and i wasn't impressed at all. that is probably the way i'm going to go for now until i can get some more money to go all the way.
TAudio 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 10, 2003 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged  

     The seat lifts are a manual modification as far as I know and good steel and high strenght bolts are a must.  A machine shop will be able to suggest what type of steel and could make you some really cool lifts for a pretty penny.

     I'm not really sure what it would cost to do the bed weld and cutout.  Most of the guys who do it have the equipment and know-how and do it themselves (I would be tenative about doing it myself).  You should find a respectable body or steel welding shop in town and ask them what they would charge.  Remember that the passage between the bed and cab must be water tight and remove only as much material as is needed to (removing to much weakens the frame).

      Another note is that you won't be able to abuse you pickup as much once this is done because you might bend your frame or break the welds off.  The bed was intentionaly not attached to allow for greater body flex under rough conditions.

     If you have an idea of what equipment you want to install I could give you a couple diagrams of what the cutouts should look like and possible box design types.  Saw one really cool one that had a plexi-glass on the top of the box so when the bed cap was open you could see the backs of the subs.

If quiters never win, and winners never quit, who the heck came up with the idea that you should quit while your ahead?
TAudio 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 09, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 10, 2003 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged  

On the seat lift thing I don't know how 1998chevy1500 did it, but below is how I would suggest it be done.  a space should be recessed for the rubber washers that isn't quite as deep as the washers (the washers are to seal it watertight).  You could create a lift of any height with this method and basic shop tools(a drill press, carbide tipped metal drill bits, and a die grinder).

Sierra Ext Cab - Last Post -- posted image.

If quiters never win, and winners never quit, who the heck came up with the idea that you should quit while your ahead?
Maxst 
Silver - Posts: 866
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 06, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 10, 2003 at 11:23 PM / IP Logged  

Sierra Ext Cab - Last Post -- posted image.

THIS IS A SETUP!!! tho i dunno if you want to shell out the cash for the W7 and 500.1 JL amp. lol

I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.
chasesaccessori 
Copper - Posts: 198
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: June 11, 2003 at 7:47 AM / IP Logged  
gota stop ya before ya mess things up!!!
Do Not!!!!weld the cab the bed.   Doing this will result in bent body panels, leaks, and overall disappointment.
If you decide to go with the cab porting you should go to your local RV supplier and get a cab boot. Then you put the boot between the cab and the bed to seal the weather out and allow the twist that is designed to be in your truck.

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