Factory Hood Pin Wire, 2008 Honda Civic EX AT

The Black side of that connector goes to the actual hood latch/ switch. On those two wires you can do a simple resistance check. Hood open should be a short and hood closed should show open circuit. You can also reconnect that plug and do the (-) type signal test I mentioned earlier on the Light Blue wire. If you have a bad switch you can always add the aftermarket hood pin or mercury tilt switch.Soldering is fun!

HOOD PIN TESTING after my continuity checking on the actual hood latch switch, I didn't expect this to work but I did the hood testing again, pretty much same results: sat in the car all doors, trunk & hood closed pressed lock on the factory remote twice - horn beeped on 2nd press as is normal. Waited a minute and popped the hood. The horn did NOT beep. unlocked the drivers door, and the alarm went off, when I manually clicked the on-door lock selector to "unlock" pressed unlock on the OEM fob to stop the alarm opened the door, closed the door then locked the car with factory remote, pressing 2x, horn beep on 2nd press as is normal then after about a minute, using OEM remote, 3 quick presses and the car started (mind you the hood is still popped open) the factory latch is not closing the circuit in either a latch popped or latch closed/locked situation. Im almost 100% the latch switch needs replacing, which I can get for about $30, $35 I think. Ill replace it and then I'll start over with the factory alarm and iDatalink testing. if the alarm works properly with the hood and the RS kit, all good! if the alarm works properly with the hood and the RS kit does NOT, I'll find and splice into the hood wire as discussed. RF KIT NOT PAIRING as I said earlier, this for me is the bigger deal I spoke to the folks who sold me the kit (not Crutchfield - they only sold me the weblink cable kit) the tech said tape at one end isn't unheard of, but if the cable shows continuity for each wire, and it has the proper pinout as I put into an earlier post, it should be ok. I checked continuity, it's fine, and the pins are 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, 4 to 4, colors as in earlier post, which is as it should be. they seem to be genuiely interested in getting it solved, are communicating with me, and are looking for -a 3rd pairing process -additional troubleshooting steps to try -they may send me another antenna and antenna wire to try when I have the car ignition turned to ON, when I re-connect the antenna cable to the antenna, it flashes both LEDs blue, but at no other time AT ALL have I ever seen a blue LED when I do the short press/press and hold to pair process. my concern is, if the antenna is just a passive device (I don't know if it has any protocols/logic onboard, or pulled from module), is the CMHCXA0 module bad? the module seems to work FULLY otherwise (except the hood pin, which I believe is a physical hood latch problem) anyway, I really appreciate all the support and knowledge. when I find that wire (it's now a challenge to me), I'll post an update with pics so its in the record! thanks again!

because I can get a little OCD, I went outside last night and pulled the latch. it was, like most hood latches, totally grimy and dirty. there was so much grime built up on the switch I thought maybe it was a physical buildup keeping the switch from closing. but alas, even after cleaning and shaping the tongue, the actuator would "click" when it was depressed by the latch mechanism, but the circuit never closed. so another part is on its way.

In my opinion, you're better off with an aftermarket hood pin. Hondas had problems with false triggers with those.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

yeah I can see why. I think if I can protect the switch from a lot of the road grime/grease, it might live a long life. I think I can 3-d print a small dirt/grime guard for the latch, to keep the latch and switch mechanism more protected. given the issues, though, I may well go with the iDatalink hood pin, since it's in hand. thanks for the info.

NEW HOOD LATCH INSTALLED ALL IS WELL Finally received the new OEM latch, and got that installed tonight. The factory alarm now will not arm with the hood open, and the head unit has a vehicle info page that shows if the hood is open, along with any doors, and trunk, so it's all coming over the CAN bus properly. I haven't checked if the sunroof is also instrumented, but I will when I remember to... IDATALINK MODULE IS SEEING HOOD OPEN/CLOSE DATA ALL IS WELL With the hood contact closure coming over the CAN bus, the hood open/close functionality is working with the RS module, so I didn't need to find/splice into the lt. blue wire in the cabin. I haven't 3D printed the hood latch grime guard I want use to try and protect the hood latch switch, but I have it modeled and will see how it comes out in the coming weeks as it warms up. I'll probably end up using the iDatalink hood pin or maybe a merc. switch, but for now I can let the car and driver go merrily about, without worrying about it. REMOTES PAIRING PROBLEM SOLVED Did a bunch of troubleshooting with the iDatalink vendor (both via email and on the phone) and he determined the next step was to send me a new antenna and antenna cable. There was a possibility of the module having a problem, but he thought it was something with the antenna/cable, even though he'd never seen that before. He didn't leave me hanging, but easily could have, given he's a long ways away; he deserves kudos for that. Turns out even though the original antenna cable was properly pinned out, and did pass my basic continuity tests, it was a bad cable. To be candid, I did not check for shorts by cross checking other pins for continuity, so that is my bad. Anyway, tested the new cable and everything worked immediately from the get go, passing all tests. Got all the harness looms dressed and the car put back together (the car has been driving around with a lot of the dash in blankets in the trunk), and everything is working so put a fork in this one! if I ever find the lt. blue cable at the cabin fuse box, I'll take pictures and post here so it's added to the anthology, as it were... appreciate all the input and support.

Thanks for the update. Glad it's all working properly now. Using a full convenience feature bypass module makes things easier and faster, less wires to locate and test.Soldering is fun!

yeah I've scrolled thru a lot of threads here, some from as far back as 2006-07 era, and having to build each harness cross connect, connect multiple modules and then program it all to work together is a lot more work and opportunity to mess it up. Im glad they moved forward to the single module/flash parameterization/specific harness concepts - makes it almost dummy proof (case in point, me).