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iDatalink ALCA, Programming Issue, 2003 GMC Yukon Denali


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mberube55 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 13, 2021 at 6:03 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
No passlock light on after r/s.
I do have the tach hardwired to the cluster. I did not attempt a tach learning. I'll have to dig into that more today.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,488
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: May 13, 2021 at 7:29 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
You might have to set the Viper to Engine Checking = Tach manually before the Tach Learn.
There is a Pictorial on your truck that shows all the necessary ignition harness connections. Here is a link : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133000
Soldering is fun!
mberube55 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 14, 2021 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
Now I'm in deep and lost again. Just created myself a big problem. So after getting everything programmed and wired up everything was working perfect. During the buttoning up process. I clipped the pink IGN wire and crimped it back together with the small pink wire attached. Soldered it and heat shrink.
Well as I was tucking everything up, the brain itself started making a chime noise. So I stopped and thought it might have been the key. Wasn't the key. So I test it again and the thing went nuts. Module started flashing green and red lights. My key fob was also going nuts. Unlocking and locking, saying trunk was open, would attempt to start, etc. So I unplug everything. Nothing would work after that. Zero key fob function and would signal error out. So I left the brain unplugged from the car overnight.
So today I plug everything back in. Things seem back to normal, but still not working. Key fob is now sending and receiving to the brain. Double checked all connections. All should be good. Car starts with the key, but does not start anymore with RS. When I attempt, I hear the normal click, but no crank. Instead it just keeps clicking. My dash lights go on, then off, on, then off. No error codes on the fob. Module now showing solid red light with key start and attempt to RS. Tried to reprogram the module, also giving me solid red light with key on or car started.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,488
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: May 14, 2021 at 3:02 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
It's difficult to troubleshoot those type symptoms from a distance. My best guess would be a poor Chassis Ground connection or an improperly inserted R/S harness or vehicle connector. This assumes that all vehicle connections are nicely soldered and insulated. Simply adjusting the R/S units position / re-arranging wire runs should be possible with no ill effects. I have had a time or two where a pin in a connector wasn't secure and backed out a bit causing an intermittent problem but that is pretty rare.
Soldering is fun!
mberube55 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2018
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: May 14, 2021 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mberube55
Replaced brain, rewired everything and all working like a charm!
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