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2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Directed Electronics 504K Shock Sensor


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nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
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Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†27, 2021 at 4:56 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
Hi. I am trying to install the directed electronics inc. 504k shock sensor into my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I would like to tie into the factory alarm system. The vehicle is two wheel drive and has the inline six cylinder engine. It is supposed to be a very simple four wire installation, but I am getting hung up on the connection for the door lock trigger/signal switch.
††††From the 504k shock sensor, I currently have the black hooked up to ground, the red hooked up to a constant hot,the green(warning switch) is capped off, and the yellow connected to a key ignition power source. The blue wire from the 504k sensor is the one I am having issues with.
I just acquired the vehicle and was hoping it would have the push button door switches that send out the signal for the open door trigger. Instead, it appears that the trigger/switch/sensor for the factory alarm is connected to the door latch. I had been warned that some vehicles were set up this way.
†††† Before finding this site I attempted to tap into the wires coming out of the door to try to find the change in voltage with the door open and closed but I had no luck. I tried the front driver's door and the rear drivers door. Both had a tan/red wire that is supposed to be the "door ajar" switch. Oddly enough, the only voltage I was able to get was at the front driver's door tan/red wire, but the voltage with the door open was only 6 volts. When I connected the blue wire from the shock sensor to the tan/red wire from the door wiring the shock sensor would activate and the interior lighting of the vehicle would turn on, but there was no horn or flashing lights alarm response.
†††† I decided to get online to see if I could find what I am missing in regards to the jeep door lock wiring and alarm triggering system. I found this article for the 2002 grand cherokee door wiring:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=12919
††† I also found this link for the 2004 grand cherokee door wiring:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=86799
†††† I noticed that both articles state that there are four separate door trigger wires per vehicle, one wire per door. The first article says to use the yellow wire at the under dash light for the door trigger. Both articles say that on the 4.0L engine you can use any wire with a tan stripe at the coil pack when connecting to an alarm system.
I am hoping the yellow wire at the under dash light for the door trigger will give me the result I am looking for. I will be making another attempt tomorrow.
I apologize ahead of time if this has been covered already or if I am posting in the wrong place. I tried to research the articles and search the forums before posting, but the issues I found were a little different. Please let me know if you have any experience and/or advice installing these shock sensors on these year models of wj jeep grand cherokees.††† 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Directed Electronics 504K Shock Sensor -- posted image.
nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†28, 2021 at 9:44 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
Well, I think the yellow wire at the under dash light only works as the door trigger when you are using the interface module. My question at this point is if it is actually possible to hook one of these types of sensors up directly to a jeep door trigger wire, or if you have to go somewhere else to make it work.
mgoetz74 
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Joined: February†15, 2012
Location: United States
Posted: June†28, 2021 at 11:49 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mgoetz74
yeah it can be done. You will have constant 12 volts (red) switched 12 volts (yellow) ground (black) instant trigger (blue) to door trigger (tan/red @ driver door switch in the door) and dont worry about the green wire that's for warn away but a factory alarm doesn't have that
31 years as a installer. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!
nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†28, 2021 at 12:52 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
Ok, thanks for the reply. That is exactly how I have it hooked up right now. I am going to go back to the tan/red wire at the door switch and see if I can't get it to work this time. For some reason I wasn't able to get the alarm to activate with the horn when I tried it the other day. Only the interior light would come on when the shock sensor was triggered. I feel like it is close to working, but for some reason the alarm isn't going off. I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong, or if there is something going on that the sensor doesn't like.
nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†29, 2021 at 10:43 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
Wow, I suck at low voltage trouble shooting. So, I went back to the tan/red wire today. Here is a photo of the wires coming out of the switch panel on the driverís door panel. There are 11 wires total. I have a wire lead t-tapped directly off the tan/red wire. I am getting about 5 volts on the tan/red when the door is closed. When the door is open the voltage is zero. I was under the impression I was looking for 12 volts with the door open and zero with the door closed.
Iím glad I donít do this for a living or I would have been fired by now. Everything Iíve read says the tan/red is the wire to go with, but my test results are not looking very encouraging at all.
I also included a photo of the four wires coming directly off the door latch. Those look like black, orange/black, pink/black, and white/red. My thinking would be that the trigger wire would be one of the wires coming directly off the latch, but everyone is saying it is the tan/red coming off the switch is the one.
Any thoughts on the tan/red weirdness or possibly using one the wires out of the door latch would be greatly appreciated. 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Directed Electronics 504K Shock Sensor -- posted image.
nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†29, 2021 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Directed Electronics 504K Shock Sensor -- posted image.
nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†29, 2021 at 10:45 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Directed Electronics 504K Shock Sensor -- posted image.
catback 
Silver - Posts: 650
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Joined: August†13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: June†30, 2021 at 7:46 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote catback
nozzletov wrote:
I am hoping the yellow wire at the under dash light for the door trigger will give me the result I am looking for. I will be making another attempt tomorrow.
You can't use that wire. The door trigger causes the BCM to activate the light but not the other way around (the light doesn't activate the door trigger and set off the alarm).
nozzletov wrote:
I have a wire lead t-tapped directly off the tan/red wire. I am getting about 5 volts on the tan/red when the door is closed. When the door is open the voltage is zero. I was under the impression I was looking for 12 volts with the door open and zero with the door closed.
Most door ajar switches/triggers are negative trigger (connected to ground when the door is open). The door switch/trigger is connected to the BCM (body control module), the 5 volts on the tan/red is reference voltage from the BCM. When the tan/red wire is grounded out the BCM knows the door has been opened.
nozzletov 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: June†27, 2021
Location: California, United States
Posted: June†30, 2021 at 9:07 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote nozzletov
Thanks for the help catback. I guess the role of the body control module is throwing me off. If the tan/red wire is grounded out when the door is open wouldnít we still expect to see a rise in voltage?
catback 
Silver - Posts: 650
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Joined: August†13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: June†30, 2021 at 11:33 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote catback
The body control module is the computer that controls various amenities and non-powertrain functions of the vehicle. It's the computer that is behind factory alarms, keyless entry, and some immobilizer systems, for example. But it's not limited to that; on newer vehicles for example, the BCM controls the turn signal flashing and artificially generates the "clicking" sound. For your jeep, the BCM is responsible for keyless entry, all the warning chimes (key-in-ignition/headlight-left-on), the interior lights auto shutoff timer/battery saver, and possibly the factory alarm itself (I have not had the opportunity to have hands on with a factory alarm equipped Chrysler of that era so I can only speculate).
When a wire that has 5v (or any voltage) is shorted to ground the voltage can not go up. It started at 5v (or whatever voltage) it can't go higher it can only go down. If this was a wire that carried a real amount of current, shorting it to ground would cause current to rise, fuses to blow, and maybe even a spark show. But the wire in question isn't providing current so shorting it to ground just changes the voltage on the wire from 5v to 0v - which the BCM detects as door ajar/open.
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